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Tazukuri (candied baby sardines)

Tazukuri means 'making rice paddies': in old Japan small sardines were spread on fields as fertiliser, and these glazed little fish became a New Year wish for a rich harvest; they are one of the three essential osechi nibbles with black beans and herring roe. Toasted dry until they snap, then tossed in a sweet-salty glaze, they are crunchy, savoury and moreish, with a nutty sesame finish. The glaze includes mirin, a sweet rice wine; for no alcohol use 1 tbsp water and 1 extra tsp sugar. Serve a small heap in the osechi box, with green tea, or over hot rice. Chef's tip: toast slowly until one fish snaps cleanly in half; chewy sardines never turn crisp later.

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