Chilli and ginger paste
No table in Madagascar is fully set without a saucer of sakay, from a Fianarantsoa family lunch to a coastal fish shack in Mahajanga. Fresh red chillies are pounded with ginger, garlic and salt, then loosened with hot oil, so the paste is bright, sharp and searingly hot, with a warm ginger finish rather than the sourness of a vinegar sauce. A dab is stirred into broth, smeared over rice or eaten with grilled zebu skewers; a little goes a long way. Wear gloves when you chop the chillies, and wash the board straight away: rubbing your eyes after handling them is the classic beginner's mistake. Chef's tip: pour the oil in while it is hot but not smoking, which cooks the raw edge off the garlic and helps the paste keep for a week in the fridge.
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An unusual, generous one-pot curry: boiled lentils, peas, beans, carrots and a few noodles simmered in a coconut milk gravy flavoured with a fresh mint, garlic and green chilli paste and a roasted masala of fenugreek seeds, cardamom, coriander and cinnamon. A curry-leaf tempering goes on top. Serve hot with chapaties or plain boiled rice.
Everyday Gujarati dal: smooth, thin pigeon pea lentils simmered with tomato, peanuts, drumsticks, kokum and dried dates, sweet with jaggery and sharp with lemon, under a fragrant tempering of cloves, curry leaves and mustard. Vary it by changing the seasoning and tempering: for example, temper it with curry leaves, mustard and onions fried in oil, and finish it with green chillies, sambhar masala and kokum pieces. Serve hot with plain boiled rice.
A Gujarati favourite: tender valore (Indian flat beans) cooked in a sweet, sour and spicy tomato masala with ajwain, then mixed with crisp fried methi muthia, little dumplings of wheat and gram flour full of fresh fenugreek. The muthia soak up the gravy beautifully. Serve hot with chapaties.
A showpiece party bake: a spiced mashed-potato base, a layer of tempered vegetables, a layer of spinach, sweetcorn and rice, then coconut chutney, all sealed under more potato and baked with sesame seeds. Serve hot with masala yogurt, tamarind and red chilli chutneys and a fresh salad.
A thin, silky Gujarati kadhi of sour yogurt and gram flour, gently sweet with jaggery and fragrant with cinnamon, cloves, curry leaves and fenugreek seeds. Stir it all the time as it comes to the boil so it doesn't split. Serve with pigeon pea lentil khichdi or rice.
A one-pot Gujarati meal: sweet and sour tuvar dal with kokum and peanuts, with squares of a spiced wheat and gram flour dough simmered in it until tender. If the dal thickens as the dhokri cook, add more water. Garnish with coriander and jini sev and serve hot.
Cauliflower grated into small crumbs and cooked until tender, then mixed with peas and a smooth, spicy onion-tomato paste flavoured with cardamom, black pepper and cumin. The texture is just like a kheema (mince) but completely vegetarian. Serve hot with parathas.
Light, crisp koftas of gram flour and chopped spinach dropped into a pale green kadhi of yogurt and spinach puree, spiced with a fresh-ground masala of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and coriander seed. Add the koftas just before serving so they stay soft but hold together. Serve hot with any paratha or puri.
A quick Gujarati and Kathiawadi favourite: ripe tomatoes cooked down into a sweet, sour and gently spiced curry, with fine jini sev stirred in at the very last moment so it stays slightly crunchy. Serve sev tomato curry hot with chapaties.
A handi-style mixed vegetable curry: potatoes, carrots, beans, peas and long pieces of brinjal cooked in a tangy yogurt gravy with ginger, garlic and chilli, finished with cream, fresh coriander and a touch of mild curry masala. Serve hot with naan or chapaties.
Tindora (ivy gourd) slit and lightly fried, then stuffed with a sweet, sour and nutty masala of peanuts, coconut, tomato and spices and cooked gently until tender. A simple everyday Gujarati shaak. Serve hot with chapaties.
A rich, thick dal of pigeon pea, green gram, black and masoor lentils cooked until meltingly soft with potato, brinjal, spring onion, tomato and fenugreek, then simmered with a spiced coriander paste, tamarind and jaggery. It's sweet, sour and warming. Serve amiri dal with jeera fenugreek paratha.
The great Gujarati winter feast: papdi, fresh pigeon peas, baby potatoes, suran, sweet potato, small brinjals and ripe bananas, slit and stuffed with a green masala of fresh green garlic, coriander and coconut, slow-cooked with fried fenugreek muthia. It's cooked gently under a plate of water so the vegetables steam in their own juices. This makes a big pot for 20; serve hot with chapaties or puri.
Sweet, crunchy triangles of wholemeal dough kneaded with jaggery water and deep fried until brown. In Gujarati homes they're eaten with green gram curry or potato curry and mango pickle, a lovely sweet-savoury pairing. They keep well in an airtight tin.
Chopadia are flaky, layered parathas: the dough is spiced with roasted cumin and black pepper, brushed with ghee, rolled into a cone and rolled out again so it cooks into soft layers. They can be made several hours ahead. Serve with any curry, dal or pickle.
Bhakhri is the classic Gujarati crisp flatbread: a very stiff dough of wholemeal flour and oil, rolled thick and cooked slowly while being pressed, so it turns biscuity and crisp. The edges crack because the dough is stiff, which is how it should be. Spread with butter or ghee and serve with mixed lentil curry or dry potato curry and yogurt.
Osaman is the cooking water from boiled whole green grams, gently spiced with ginger, chilli, tamarind and jaggery and finished with a cinnamon, clove and curry-leaf tempering. It's thin, soothing and easy to digest, so it's good for anyone feeling unwell. The leftover boiled green grams can be used to make a curry.
A Gujarati khichdi made with sprouted vaal (field beans), skinned and cooked with rice, potatoes and onions in a generous tempering of whole spices and asafoetida, seasoned with Surti garam masala. It's hearty and full of flavour. Garnish with coconut and coriander and serve hot with yogurt.
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