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Ikayaki (Hanshin style)
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Ikayaki (Hanshin style)

Squid and egg pancake

Osaka's ikayaki is nothing like the whole grilled squid sold at festivals elsewhere in Japan. In the basement food hall of the Hanshin department store at Umeda, people queue at lunchtime and on the way home for a thin, chewy pancake of batter and chopped squid, pressed flat between two scorching iron plates in seconds, brushed with sweet sauce and folded into paper. Order it "deluxe" and an egg is pressed in too. At home, a second heavy pan does the pressing. Chef's tip: chop the squid small; big pieces turn rubbery before the batter is cooked.

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