Braided Easter bread
Choreg is baked in Armenian homes for Easter from Yerevan to Beirut, Marseille and Los Angeles: soft, slightly sweet braided loaves scented with mahleb, the ground kernel of a wild cherry, glazed with egg and scattered with nigella or sesame seeds. Families bake big batches on Holy Saturday and share them with neighbours after church. A common mistake is adding too much flour to a sticky dough, which makes dry, heavy bread. Chef's tip: let the dough rise slowly, even overnight in the fridge; the flavour develops and the cold dough is easy to braid.
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Adadiya pak is a classic Gujarati winter sweet: coarse black gram (urad) flour is rubbed with milk, roasted slowly in ghee until brown and sweet-smelling, then mixed with popped edible gum, almonds, pistachios, sugar and plenty of ginger, mace and cardamom. It's rich, crumbly and warming, eaten a piece a day through the cold months. Makes about 30 squares.
Badam pak is a rich almond sweet: coarsely ground almonds and mawa (khoya) roasted in ghee, mixed with puffed edible gum and cardamom, then bound in a saffron sugar syrup and pressed into a tray. It's nutty, chewy and fragrant. Makes about 35 squares; the book also gives a soft 'hot badam pak' to serve warm.
An easy baked sweet of grated mawa (khoya) and fresh coconut mixed with warm milk, nuts, saffron, cardamom and nutmeg, baked until set and fragrant. It's soft, rich and milky, somewhere between a halwa and a pudding. Serve it hot, decorated with nuts and cardamom.
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