Lyon's sweet emblem recalls the city's plague vow of 1643, when the aldermen carried a candle and gold coins on a silk cushion to the chapel of Fourvière. Chocolatiers turned that cushion into a confection in the 1960s and it is now the gift Lyonnais bring at Christmas and New Year, or for a host on a Sunday visit. A soft, almond-sweet shell of pale green paste, marked with a darker green stripe, hides a melting dark chocolate ganache scented with orange. Serve two or three with coffee after dinner. The classic ganache is laced with orange liqueur; here fresh orange juice and zest give the flavour without alcohol. Shop marzipan is not always egg-free, so this almond paste is bound with sugar syrup cooked to the soft-ball stage, which coats the ground almonds and sets them firm as it cools. Chef's tip: chill the ganache until it holds a line before shaping; the common mistake is using it soft, so it squeezes out of the seams.
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A rich, creamy cheese dip of grated mozzarella processed with cream and eggless mayonnaise, then mixed with spring onions, garlic, white wine and hot chilli sauce. Serve it cold with slices of tomato, cucumber or bread.
A chunky, savoury salsa of tomatoes and creamy avocado with onion, garlic, fresh parsley and oregano, dressed with olive oil and wine vinegar and finished with crumbled feta. It's best after a couple of hours in the fridge. Serve it with pitta bread or tortilla chips.
A light, sweet-and-savoury dip of sour cream folded with whipped cream and coarsely ground almonds. It's rich and nutty with a soft, airy texture. Chill it well and serve with crackers, fruit or crisp vegetable sticks.
A 'royal' chutney of fresh and dried red chillies with toasted urad dal, cumin, coriander and sesame seeds, curry leaves and fresh coriander, ground smooth with tangy tamarind juice. It's hot, sour and nutty, with a little sweetness. Serve a spoonful with idli, dhosa, farsan and rice dishes.
A rich, cooked red chilli chutney: chillies soaked overnight with jaggery, sugar and lemon, blended with toasted cumin, coriander and urad dal, then simmered and finished with cashews, peanuts and powdered curry leaves. It's sweet, hot and crunchy. Serve it with puri, paratha or thepla.
The sweet, sour, glossy brown chutney that makes chaat: tamarind and dates boiled soft, blended and sieved, then sweetened with jaggery and spiced with cumin and red chilli. Drizzle it over samosas, bhel, pani puri, dahi vada and pakoras. It keeps for a month in the fridge or longer in the freezer.
A dry, coarse chutney powder of ground cumin, chilli, salt and asafoetida, with a few drops of lemon and oil and some fresh coriander, air-dried for a few days. Sprinkle a pinch over khichdi, dahi, chaat, bhel or buttered toast. Kept airtight, it lasts for weeks.
A fresh, juicy chutney of grated tomato, cucumber and carrot with crushed chillies, ketchup and coriander. It's the bright, tangy salad-chutney served with Kenyan-style maru bhajia (crispy potato bhajias). It needs no cooking and takes minutes to make.
A fresh, crumbly chutney of grated coconut and raw mango with a little chilli paste, sugar and a pinch of turmeric. It's sweet, sour and mildly hot, and is served with kachri bateta, the Gujarati potato snack, as well as with pattice and bhajias.
A smooth, tangy chutney of unripe mango, red pepper and hot red chillies, sweetened with jaggery and flavoured with cumin. It's a no-cook chutney with a lovely bright colour. Serve it with dhokla, bhajias, samosas or as a sandwich spread.
A hot, chunky relish of blended red bullet chillies cooked with raw mango, green peppers, vinegar and tomato ketchup, after a tempering of sesame, cumin and split coriander seeds. It's sweet, sour and very spicy. Serve a little with farsan, thepla or sandwiches; it keeps for weeks in the fridge.
A fresh, coarse chutney of grated coconut, mint, green chillies and cumin, sharpened with lemon and a pinch of sugar. It's bright green, cooling and spicy, and goes with idli, dhosa, pakoras and sandwiches.
A cool, creamy chutney of finely grated fresh coconut mixed with yogurt, a little chilli paste, lemon and fresh coriander. It's mildly sweet and gently spicy, and needs no cooking. Serve it with idli, dhosa, bhajias or any savoury snack.
A thick, sweet-sour chutney of grated raw mango and jaggery, blended with crunchy fafadia gathia, cumin and red chilli. It's tangy and spicy, with a hint of sweetness, and is the traditional partner for dal kachori. It also goes well with samosas and other fried snacks.
A creamy, tangy chutney made by soaking crunchy fafadia gathia in yogurt and blending it smooth, then spicing it with red chilli. The gram-flour gathia thickens the yogurt and gives it a gentle, savoury flavour. It is the classic dip for chandu bhajiya, and good with any fried farsan.
Golden home-made croutons tossed with coriander, celery and black pepper, served on a warm salad of sweet corn, onion and toasted almonds with a squeeze of lemon. Day-old bread makes the crispest croutons. Add them just before serving so they stay crunchy.
A tropical salad of julienned mango, cucumber and cabbage with thin slices of fresh coconut and toasted pumpkin seeds. The dressing is sweet and hot with chilli flakes and parsley. Choose firm, semi-ripe mangoes so the strips hold their shape, and add them at the last minute.
A crunchy salad of golden fried almonds, roasted pumpkin seeds, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, celery and apple, with plenty of spring onion and coriander. The dressing is simply lemon juice, sugar and salt, so the fresh flavours shine. Serve it cold with crusty bread.
Raw cauliflower florets marinated in a little oil and vinegar, then mixed with sweet dates, banana, crisp red apples and celery on crunchy salad leaves. It is served with a creamy orange and mustard yogurt dressing. The mix of sweet, crunchy and tangy makes it a refreshing side for a summer lunch.
A smooth, cooling green chutney of fresh mint, coriander and green chillies blended into yogurt with a dash of vinegar. It's the classic partner for tikka, kebabs, samosas and pakoras, and also good drizzled over chaat.
A creamy, sweet-and-tangy raita of chilled yogurt with banana, grated cucumber and pepper, spiced with mustard, cumin and a little chilli. It's cooling next to spicy food: serve it with biryani or dhosa ladoo. For a festive version, add finely chopped apple and pomegranate seeds.
All the flavours of a Greek salad in a chunky dip: crumbled feta, chopped olives, tomato and spring onions, bound with garlicky olive oil and lemon. Serve it chilled with salted crackers, pitta bread or crisp vegetables.
A crunchy, raita-like dip of sour cream packed with cucumber, coloured peppers, carrot and onion, with fresh coriander, green chilli and cumin. Chill it for a few hours so the flavours blend. Serve it with rice, naan or pitta.
A cool, smooth dip of fresh yogurt blended with spring onions, cucumber, green chilli, garlic and roasted cumin. It's light and refreshing, and is just right with barbecued paneer, vegetable skewers and corn. Serve it well chilled.
A crunchy Indian-style salad of finely shredded cabbage, fresh coconut, fried red peanuts and cashews, with plenty of chilli. The lemon dressing is tempered: mustard seeds are popped in hot oil first, which gives it a lovely nutty flavour. Serve it as a side with dal and rice, or with any Gujarati meal.
A fresh, crunchy salad of home-sprouted mung beans with juicy pineapple, coconut, cucumber and cherry tomatoes, dressed with orange juice, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. It is light, sweet and tangy, full of protein, and makes a healthy lunch on its own. Chill everything well, and add the lettuce at the last minute so it stays crisp.
A thick, fresh chutney of grated coconut and raw mango blended with coconut water, chilli and coriander. With no yogurt it's dairy free and keeps its fresh coconut taste. It's served in East Africa with lentil fritters (bhajia), Zanzibar mix and Mombasa mix.
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