From the Nubian villages near Aswan to the fishing camps on Lake Nasser, bolti caught that morning is gutted, slashed and grilled over charcoal for lunch, and fish grills all over Egypt cook it the same way. The rub is simple: crushed garlic, plenty of cumin, lemon, chilli and oil, which toasts on the skin and seasons the sweet, mild flesh. A stuffing of onion and parsley in the belly keeps it moist. Eat it with your hands, picking the flesh from the bones, alongside tahini, green salad and rice or bread. Chef's tip: oil the grill bars as well as the fish and leave it alone for the first 6 minutes; fish moved too early tears and sticks, which is the usual grilling mistake.
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A smooth, tangy chutney of unripe mango, red pepper and hot red chillies, sweetened with jaggery and flavoured with cumin. It's a no-cook chutney with a lovely bright colour. Serve it with dhokla, bhajias, samosas or as a sandwich spread.
A hot, chunky relish of blended red bullet chillies cooked with raw mango, green peppers, vinegar and tomato ketchup, after a tempering of sesame, cumin and split coriander seeds. It's sweet, sour and very spicy. Serve a little with farsan, thepla or sandwiches; it keeps for weeks in the fridge.
A fresh, coarse chutney of grated coconut, mint, green chillies and cumin, sharpened with lemon and a pinch of sugar. It's bright green, cooling and spicy, and goes with idli, dhosa, pakoras and sandwiches.
A cool, creamy chutney of finely grated fresh coconut mixed with yogurt, a little chilli paste, lemon and fresh coriander. It's mildly sweet and gently spicy, and needs no cooking. Serve it with idli, dhosa, bhajias or any savoury snack.
A thick, sweet-sour chutney of grated raw mango and jaggery, blended with crunchy fafadia gathia, cumin and red chilli. It's tangy and spicy, with a hint of sweetness, and is the traditional partner for dal kachori. It also goes well with samosas and other fried snacks.
A creamy, tangy chutney made by soaking crunchy fafadia gathia in yogurt and blending it smooth, then spicing it with red chilli. The gram-flour gathia thickens the yogurt and gives it a gentle, savoury flavour. It is the classic dip for chandu bhajiya, and good with any fried farsan.
Golden home-made croutons tossed with coriander, celery and black pepper, served on a warm salad of sweet corn, onion and toasted almonds with a squeeze of lemon. Day-old bread makes the crispest croutons. Add them just before serving so they stay crunchy.
A tropical salad of julienned mango, cucumber and cabbage with thin slices of fresh coconut and toasted pumpkin seeds. The dressing is sweet and hot with chilli flakes and parsley. Choose firm, semi-ripe mangoes so the strips hold their shape, and add them at the last minute.
A crunchy salad of golden fried almonds, roasted pumpkin seeds, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, celery and apple, with plenty of spring onion and coriander. The dressing is simply lemon juice, sugar and salt, so the fresh flavours shine. Serve it cold with crusty bread.
Raw cauliflower florets marinated in a little oil and vinegar, then mixed with sweet dates, banana, crisp red apples and celery on crunchy salad leaves. It is served with a creamy orange and mustard yogurt dressing. The mix of sweet, crunchy and tangy makes it a refreshing side for a summer lunch.
A smooth, cooling green chutney of fresh mint, coriander and green chillies blended into yogurt with a dash of vinegar. It's the classic partner for tikka, kebabs, samosas and pakoras, and also good drizzled over chaat.
A creamy, sweet-and-tangy raita of chilled yogurt with banana, grated cucumber and pepper, spiced with mustard, cumin and a little chilli. It's cooling next to spicy food: serve it with biryani or dhosa ladoo. For a festive version, add finely chopped apple and pomegranate seeds.
All the flavours of a Greek salad in a chunky dip: crumbled feta, chopped olives, tomato and spring onions, bound with garlicky olive oil and lemon. Serve it chilled with salted crackers, pitta bread or crisp vegetables.
A hot, garlicky chutney of tomatoes cooked down with garlic paste, red chilli and cumin, then mashed until coarse. It's served alongside pav bhaji for extra heat, and is also good with vada pav, dabeli and toasted sandwiches.
Crisp-tender snow peas, baby carrots and baby corn are boiled briefly, then mixed with quickly stir-fried courgettes, peppers and spring onions. Everything is tossed in a zingy dressing of chives, parsley, coriander, lemon and plenty of garlic. It is a warm salad that makes a light meal on its own.
A crunchy salad of red, yellow and green peppers with roasted peanuts, cucumber, carrots and celery, dressed with lemon, dill, mint and celery leaves. Just before serving, olive oil mixed with sesame seeds is poured over the top. It's colourful, filling and full of protein.
Onions fried gently until soft and sweet, then blended with fresh mint, green chilli and lemon juice. It's a mellow, fresh-tasting chutney that is great with bhajias, samosas, kebabs and tikka, or spread in sandwiches.
A simple, tangy dip made with thick home-made cottage cheese (hung yogurt) or ready-made sour cream, seasoned with garlic, chilli, black pepper and vinegar. Serve it cold with crisps, nachos and jacket potatoes. The book's other dips use this as their 'sour cream'.
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