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Morogo
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Morogo

Greens with tomato and onion

Out in Limpopo and on the edges of Gauteng, morogo is the word for edible leaves, and a pot of them simmering with onion and tomato is what turns a plate of stiff pap into supper. In villages the leaves come from amaranth, cowpea or pumpkin plants picked in the yard; at home you can use shop-bought amaranth or pumpkin leaves from an African grocer, or plain spinach mixed with a little kale, which gives a very similar soft, earthy, slightly mineral result. The greens cook down until silky and dark, with sweet tomato and a little chilli running through them. Serve with pap, samp and beans or a pile of rice, and eat it with your hands, rolling a ball of pap through the greens. Chef's tip: let the onion and tomato fry down to a thick jam before the leaves go in, otherwise the morogo ends up watery and bland.

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Carottes VichyGlazed carrots

Carottes Vichy come from the spa town of Vichy in the Auvergne, where they were cooked in the local mineral water; today they are the classic French bistro and Sunday-lunch side, loved by children. Thin rounds of carrot simmer with butter, a little sugar and salt in just enough water, so that when the carrots are tender the water has boiled down to a shiny glaze. Serve with roast chicken, an omelette or lentils. The usual mistake is using too much water, so you must drain away the flavour; it should just cover the carrots. Chef's tip: a pinch of bicarbonate of soda in the water copies Vichy's alkaline water and helps the carrots turn sweet and bright.

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PeposoPeppery beef and red wine stew

Peposo comes from Impruneta, the hill town south of Florence famous for its terracotta, where kiln workers are said to have tucked pots of beef, wine and pepper into the cooling kilns to cook overnight. Today it is a winter Sunday dish across Tuscany: beef shin cooked for hours in red wine with whole garlic and a startling amount of black pepper until it is dark, tender and warming, served on toasted bread or with white beans. It contains alcohol, which mostly cooks off over the long bake; for an alcohol-free version use 500 ml beef stock, 200 ml red grape juice and 2 tbsp red wine vinegar. The usual mistake is using ready-ground pepper, which turns muddy and harsh; crack whole peppercorns coarsely. Chef's tip: add half the pepper at the start and half in the last hour, so you get both depth and a fresh bite.

240 minItalianMeatGluten free
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