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Lumpiang sariwa
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Lumpiang sariwa

Fresh vegetable spring rolls

Lumpiang sariwa ('fresh lumpia') is the unfried cousin of the crisp Filipino spring roll, served at fiestas, family gatherings and as a substantial afternoon merienda around Manila and the Tagalog provinces. A thin, soft egg crepe is wrapped around a lettuce leaf and a warm sauté of sweet potato, jicama, carrot, green beans, cabbage and tofu, then covered in a glossy brown garlic sauce and a shower of crushed peanuts. In Negros the filling is heart of palm (ubod) instead. It is eaten with a knife and fork, or carefully by hand. Chef's tip: make the crepes thin enough that you can almost see light through them; thick ones turn rubbery and hide the filling.

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CuzzetielloBread boat filled with ragu

The cuzzetiello is the crusty end of a big Neapolitan loaf, hollowed out and stuffed with whatever is in the Sunday pot, most often the slow ragù and its meatballs. It began as a way for families in the Rione Sanità and Forcella to use up bread and sauce on Monday, and now small shops near Piazza Bellini sell it at lunchtime, wrapped in paper. The meatballs here are pork and beef, and the ragù traditionally takes a splash of red wine, which is boiled off; use extra stock or water with a teaspoon of red wine vinegar instead if you avoid alcohol. Chef's tip: let the sauce soak into the bread for a couple of minutes before biting; that soaked crumb is the point.

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Goan pezRice porridge with pickle and papad

Pez is the plainest food in a Goan kitchen and one of the most loved: red parboiled rice simmered in plenty of water until the grains burst and the liquid turns milky. Fishermen and farmers ate it before a day's work, mothers serve it to anyone who feels unwell, and on heavy monsoon evenings it comes with a spoon of mango or lime pickle, a roasted papad and sometimes a dry fish or vegetable on the side. The mistake is cooking it in too little water so it becomes a sticky porridge; good pez has whole soft grains floating in thin, starchy broth. Chef's tip: stir in a little salt only at the end and let everyone add buttermilk or coconut milk to their own bowl.

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Godeulppaegi kimchiBitter wild lettuce kimchi

In Suncheon and the hills of South Jeolla, godeulppaegi is dug up from fields and banks in late autumn and again in early spring, and the kimchi made from it is a point of local pride, eaten through winter beside rice, grilled fish and pork. The plant is a small wild lettuce with a pale, carrot-like root and leaves full of milky, bitter sap. Soaked in salt water for several days, the bitterness softens to a pleasant, coffee-like edge that pairs with the deep anchovy sauce and sweet, sticky chilli dressing. Chewy roots, tender leaves, sweet, savoury and gently bitter all at once. The common mistake is rushing the soak: the kimchi is then too bitter to enjoy. Change the brine every day and taste a leaf; stop when the bitterness is noticeable but no longer harsh, usually day 3 to 5. Outside Korea, look for it frozen or dried in Korean shops, or use young dandelion plants with their roots. The kimchi is ready after about 2 weeks in the fridge, when the dressing turns glossy and the roots taste mellow and sour-sweet. Chef's tip: twist a few plants into small coils so each serving comes out of the jar neatly.

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GodrogodroCoconut rice flour sweet

Along the northern coast around Antsiranana, and down to Mahajanga, godrogodro is a festival and family-celebration sweet, cut into diamonds and passed round at weddings, circumcision ceremonies and the New Year. Coconut milk, rice flour and dark sugar are stirred for the best part of an hour until the mixture thickens, darkens and pulls away from the pan, then it sets into a dense, sliceable fudge-like block, fragrant with vanilla and cardamom. It is rich, so small squares with a cup of tea are plenty. Stopping too early is the mistake to avoid: undercooked godrogodro stays sticky and pale and will not hold a clean edge. Chef's tip: use a heavy, non-stick pan and a flat wooden spatula that scrapes the whole base, and keep stirring as it thickens, as the bottom scorches easily.

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Gondhoraj gholLime-scented yogurt drink

In Kolkata the gondhoraj lime arrives with the monsoon heat, a knobbly green fruit whose peel smells of flowers and pine more than of sour citrus. Bengali households use it to lift dal and fish, but in the sticky months from Boishakh into Srabon it goes into ghol: dahi churned with cold water until frothy, sweetened lightly and scented with the zest, a squeeze of juice and a torn leaf. Cafés along Gariahat and old sweet shops serve it in clay bhaar cups after lunch, and it is just as good mid-afternoon with a plate of muri. It drinks thin, cool and silky, with a soft tang and a perfume that hits the nose before the first sip. The usual mistake is grating too deep or leaving the zest to sit for an hour: the white pith and the oils turn bitter. Take only the green outer layer, add it just before serving, and stop when the ghol smells floral rather than sharp. It is ready when the top is covered in fine foam and a spoon comes out lightly coated. Chef's tip: for the salted version, swap the sugar for black salt and a pinch of roasted cumin, as many Kolkata homes do on the hottest days.

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Harina de maíz dulceSweet cornmeal porridge

In Cuban homes "harina" means cornmeal, and harina dulce is the soft, sweet porridge that grandmothers in Havana and Santiago cooked for children before school, scented with cinnamon and a curl of lime peel the way rice pudding is. It should be smooth and spoonable, like a loose polenta. The usual mistake is pouring the cornmeal into boiling milk, which seizes into lumps at once: start it in cold liquid and whisk as it heats. Chef's tip: take the lime peel out once the porridge thickens, or its oils turn bitter as it sits.

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