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Rasavalli kilangu in coconut milk
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Rasavalli kilangu in coconut milk

Purple yam in coconut milk

Rasavalli, the deep purple yam that grows up fences in Jaffna home gardens, turns into one of the simplest and prettiest sweets of the Tamil north: the tubers are boiled until they fall apart, then stirred into thick coconut milk with sugar until the whole pot is violet, glossy and porridge-soft. It is eaten warm in small bowls as an evening snack or for breakfast, and families often make it when the tubers are freshly dug and at their sweetest. The flavour is mild and nutty, with the creaminess of coconut and a hint of cardamom if you like. Raw yam sap can make your hands itch, and peeling it bare-handed is the mistake people regret, so wear gloves or rub your hands with oil. Look for purple yam (sometimes sold as ube) fresh or frozen in Asian shops. Chef's tip: mash only part of the yam and leave some soft chunks, which gives the pudding a far nicer texture than a smooth purée.

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Bellam avakayaSweet raw mango pickle

In the Godavari districts of coastal Andhra, the same May afternoon that produces a jar of fiery avakaya usually produces a second jar of bellam avakaya for the children and anyone who likes it sweet. The mangoes are hacked into chunks with their skin and the hard shell of the stone still attached, then tossed with chilli, mustard powder, salt and plenty of grated jaggery. Over three or four days the jaggery melts into a dark, glossy syrup that clings to every piece. It tastes sweet first, then the mustard catches the nose and the chilli warms the back of the throat; the mango stays firm and sour. Eat it with pesarattu, dosa, chapati or curd rice. The salt is about 8% of the mango weight and the fruit is acidic, so it keeps all year under oil in a dry jar. Common mistake: cutting the mangoes wet or leaving sap and water on them; any moisture invites mould, so dry each piece with a cloth. It is ready when no jaggery grains remain and a film of oil rises to the top. Chef's tip: wipe off the milky sap at the stalk end before cutting; it stings the skin and tastes bitter.

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