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Pollo alla cacciatora

Hunter's chicken

Pollo alla cacciatora, the hunter's chicken, is cooked in every family from Tuscany to Lazio for Sunday lunch, and each household guards its own version. This one follows the central Italian habit of deglazing with a splash of red wine vinegar instead of wine, so it is alcohol-free: chicken pieces are browned in olive oil, then braised with garlic, rosemary, tomato and black olives until the sauce clings and the meat falls from the bone. Serve with bread or soft polenta. The usual mistake is crowding the pan when browning: the chicken steams pale instead of turning golden, and the sauce lacks depth. Chef's tip: let the vinegar boil off for a full minute before adding the tomatoes, so it leaves tang without sharpness.

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