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Chive pockets
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Chive pockets

Fried chive and egg pastries

At breakfast shops and morning street griddles all over Taiwan, these fat half-moons sit in rows on a flat iron, blistering slowly until golden, and people buy them with soy milk on the way to work. Inside the thin, crisp-chewy hot-water pastry is a juicy, garlicky filling of chopped garlic chives, scrambled egg and slippery glass noodles. Street vendors often add dried shrimp; this vegetarian version leans on sesame oil and white pepper instead. The common error is salting the filling too early, which draws water out of the chives and makes the pastry soggy and liable to tear; season only just before wrapping. Chef's tip: toss the chives in sesame oil first, because the oil coats them and keeps the juices in.

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