Featured recipe

Kosa bel bechamel

Courgette bake with béchamel

Cairene home cooks bake kosa bel bechamel in the same deep tray they use for macarona, and it turns up on Friday lunch tables and at family gatherings all year. Plenty of households layer the courgettes with spiced minced beef; this is the meat-free version, where soft, sweet courgette and onion sit under a deep blanket of nutmeg-scented white sauce that browns in patches on top. Spoon it out beside plain vermicelli rice, a baladi salad and a dish of pickles. The usual hard grating cheese, like most aged cheeses, is often made with animal rennet, so pick one labelled vegetarian. Chef's tip: let the bake stand for ten minutes before cutting, or the béchamel runs and the slices fall apart.

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60 min

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This is not paella. Portuguese arroz de marisco is wet and soupy, eaten with a spoon straight from the pot, and Lisbon families order a big one to share at seafood restaurants on a Sunday, waiting while it is made fresh. The rice simmers in a rich tomato and shellfish broth, then prawns, clams and mussels go in at the end so they stay tender. White wine is traditional and contains alcohol; use more stock instead. A common mistake is letting it stand: the rice keeps drinking the broth, so serve it the moment it is ready. Chef's tip: make the broth from the prawn heads and shells; it is where most of the flavour comes from.

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160 min

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