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Taiwanese pepper buns
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Taiwanese pepper buns

Peppery pork sesame buns

The queue at the entrance to Raohe night market in Taipei forms for these: buns slapped onto the inside wall of a blazing clay oven, then lifted out crackly, blistered and studded with sesame. Inside is a juicy filling of fatty pork mince heavy with white and black pepper and a mass of spring onion, its juices hot enough to burn, so locals nibble a small hole first and let the steam out. A home oven turned up as high as it goes, with a preheated tray or stone, gets close to the clay oven's crust. The usual mistake is mixing the spring onion into the pork in advance: it weeps water and makes the bun soggy, so add it only as you wrap. Chef's tip: chill the filling until firm before shaping; cold pork is far easier to seal inside the dough and makes a juicier bun.

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