Featured recipe

Negiyaki

Spring onion pancake

Negiyaki began in the late 1960s at a small teppan counter in Jūsō, the station district just north of the Yodo River, as a cheap staff meal of spring onion folded into thin batter. Office workers still eat it there and around Umeda in the evening, cut into wedges and scraped straight off the hot plate. There is no cabbage and no thick brown sauce: just a pile of green onion held together by a light batter, chewy cubes of slow-cooked beef tendon and konnyaku, a brush of soy sauce and a squeeze of lemon. Chef's tip: dry the sliced onion well on kitchen paper; wet onion stops the batter from clinging.

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