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Nyonya bak chang

Pork rice dumplings

Every year in the run-up to the Dragon Boat Festival, on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, Peranakan aunties in Singapore's Katong set up long tables and start wrapping. Their chang differ from Hokkien rice dumplings: the glutinous rice is part-tinted a soft blue with butterfly pea flowers and scented with pandan, and the filling of diced pork is sweet with candied winter melon and warm with ground coriander and white pepper. Cut open, each pyramid is speckled blue and white, sticky and fragrant, and is eaten warm or at room temperature with a dab of sambal or simply on its own. A common mistake is tying the dumplings too loosely, so water seeps in and the rice turns mushy; wrap tight and tie firmly. Chef's tip: fry the filling until it is fairly dry before wrapping, as any excess liquid makes the rice around it soggy.

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