Satay smoke drifts along Javanese streets every evening, where sellers fan charcoal grills set up on the pavement and serve skewers with peanut sauce, rice cakes and sliced shallot. Tofu and tempeh are naturals for it: they drink up a sweet-savoury marinade of palm sugar, tamari, coriander and garlic and pick up dark, sticky char at the edges. The sauce here is cooked until smooth and glossy, sweeter and milder than the grainy dressing on gado-gado, made for dipping. Chef's tip: soak the bamboo skewers for 30 minutes and brush the satay with marinade as it grills — the sugar caramelises into the dark, slightly burnt edges that make satay taste like satay.
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A mild, creamy biryani: rice and husked green gram roasted in ghee, then cooked in coconut milk with peas, carrots, potatoes, peanuts and cashews, and finished with soft fried paneer and a fresh coriander yogurt. Serve hot, garnished with more fried cashews and paneer.
Pethi puri are little wholemeal puris with a thin layer of coarsely ground urad dal, chilli flakes and carom seeds pressed on top. Fried peethi side down, the dal cooks into a crunchy, savoury crust while the puri puffs up. Serve hot with chutneys.
Bhakhri is the classic Gujarati crisp flatbread: a very stiff dough of wholemeal flour and oil, rolled thick and cooked slowly while being pressed, so it turns biscuity and crisp. The edges crack because the dough is stiff, which is how it should be. Spread with butter or ghee and serve with mixed lentil curry or dry potato curry and yogurt.
Makki ki roti is a rustic Punjabi flatbread made from maize flour bound with hot water. This version adds fresh fenugreek, onion and green chilli; leave them out for plain makki ki roti. It's naturally gluten free and traditionally served with sarson ka saag and a dab of ghee or butter.
Gujarati pudla are savoury pancakes made from a runny gram flour batter with ajwain, chilli, turmeric and coriander, spread thin on a hot griddle and cooked until golden-speckled. They're quick, filling and naturally egg-free. Serve hot with dry potato curry, green chilli chutney and tea or yogurt.
Sweet, crunchy triangles of wholemeal dough kneaded with jaggery water and deep fried until brown. In Gujarati homes they're eaten with green gram curry or potato curry and mango pickle, a lovely sweet-savoury pairing. They keep well in an airtight tin.
A thick, tangy Punjabi kadhi of sour buttermilk and gram flour, simmered slowly for half an hour and tempered with ghee, cumin and fenugreek seeds, then filled with crisp koftas of gram flour, potato, peas and vegetables. Frying the koftas twice, and pressing them in between, makes them light. Serve hot with the paratha of your choice.
Puda are thick, rustic savoury pancakes made from millet and rice flour with sprouted green gram, onion, chilli, garlic, ginger and ajwain, bound with yogurt. Cooked on a griddle until brown-speckled, they're filling and naturally gluten free. Serve hot with masala yogurt.
Osaman is the cooking water from boiled whole green grams, gently spiced with ginger, chilli, tamarind and jaggery and finished with a cinnamon, clove and curry-leaf tempering. It's thin, soothing and easy to digest, so it's good for anyone feeling unwell. The leftover boiled green grams can be used to make a curry.
Folded square parathas made with wholemeal flour, semolina, fresh fenugreek and roasted cumin. Spreading ghee and flour between the folds makes them crisp and flaky. Cook them slowly until well browned and serve with pickles, yogurt and a curry of your choice.
Uttapam are thick South Indian pancakes made from a fermented rice and urad dal batter mixed with onion, green chilli, coconut and coriander. They're topped with a sprinkle of chilli and cumin, covered and cooked until crisp underneath. Serve hot with sambhar and mint coconut chutney.
Thin mint-flecked chapatis folded into square envelopes around a filling of spiced soya mince, onion, coriander and grated cheese, then cooked on a hot pan until brown-speckled. They're high in protein and great for lunch boxes. Serve hot with green, red and tamarind chutneys and salad.
A festive pulao of basmati rice with green peas, golden fried paneer cubes and cashews, cooked with whole spices, ginger and garlic. Each grain stays separate and fragrant. Garnish with more cashews and sliced chillies and serve with masala yogurt.
A special-occasion khichdi: rice and split green gram cooked with whole spices and onion, then layered with baby potatoes and peas in a fresh paste of coconut, green chilli, ginger, garlic and coriander, and gently baked. Serve garnished with crisp onion rings, coriander and coconut.
Easy home-made naan: a soft dough of self-raising flour, yeast and yogurt, left to rise and then cooked under a hot grill until puffed and light brown. Brush with butter or ghee if you like and serve hot with curries.
Puris are small rounds of wholemeal dough deep fried until they puff into golden balloons. They're best eaten straight away with a curry of your choice, potato bhaji or shrikhand. Tip from the book: puris can be rolled out an hour ahead and kept between well-rinsed wet muslin cloths, then fried just before serving.
Kulchas are soft, leavened breads from North India. Here the yogurt and poppy seed dough is filled with soya mince sautéed with garlic and green chilli and mixed with cheddar, baked, then finished on a griddle just before serving. Make plain kulcha by leaving out the filling.
Tandoori roti made at home: wholemeal dough spread with chilled, solidified ghee, rolled into a cone and pressed out again so it bakes into soft, flaky layers. Cook it in a tandoor or on the back of a perforated earthenware tava over the flame until brown-spotted. Serve with a curry of your choice.
The much-loved aloo paratha, Gujarati style: soft wholemeal dough wrapped around mashed potato tempered with cumin and asafoetida and seasoned with lemon, a little sugar, ginger and chilli. Cook on a hot griddle until golden and serve with masoor dal and banana raita.
Two thin rounds of dough sandwiched around a filling of potato, carrot, peas and cauliflower cooked with cumin, ginger and chilli and mixed with cheddar and lemon, sealed with a flour paste and shallow fried. Filling and kid-friendly. Serve hot with spring onion and yogurt dip.
Small, crisp squares of brown-sugar butter dough mixed with crunchy home-made almond praline, then topped with cinnamon and more praline. A lovely biscuit for festive tins. Like all biscuits, they feel soft in the oven and crisp up as they cool.
A colourful, mildly spiced rice cooked in puréed tomatoes and coconut milk with carrots, peas and french beans. Creamy coconut softens the tang of the tomatoes. Garnish with coriander, tomato slices and coconut, and serve with masala yogurt.
A quicker bhatura that needs no long rising: soaked bread and yogurt with a pinch of bicarbonate make the dough soft and puffy, and wholemeal flour and fresh fenugreek add flavour. Deep fried until golden, they're ideal with channa paneer masala.
A festive, baked khichdi: rice and pigeon pea lentils are cooked with cumin and tinted with saffron, then layered with a garlicky onion and yogurt gravy and crisp ghee-fried onions. It comes out of the oven fragrant and rich. Serve hot with plain yogurt.
Bright green parathas: the dough is kneaded with puréed spinach and lemon, then filled with a gently spiced stuffing of crushed peas, grated cauliflower and crumbled paneer and cooked on a hot griddle. Soft inside with crisp spots outside. Serve hot with yogurt and chutneys.
The everyday Gujarati khichdi: rice and husked pigeon pea lentils cooked soft with turmeric in a ghee tempering of cumin, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and asafoetida. It's simple, soothing and nourishing. Serve hot with Gujarati kadhi.
Fresh sweetcorn is ground to a smooth paste with ginger and chilli and cooked into thin, lacy pancakes, covered so they steam and turn light brown. They're naturally gluten free and sweet-savoury. Serve hot with tomato ketchup or mint chutney.
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