Cabbage-stuffed pickled peppers
Lined up in a market jar, the little stuffed peppers look like lanterns: round or short, thick-walled pickling peppers, each packed with salted shredded cabbage and kept in a clear vinegar brine. Hungarian families put them up in September, and in winter one or two go on the plate beside roast pork, sausages or a bowl of bean soup for a sharp, crunchy contrast. The cabbage inside soaks up the brine and becomes a tart little slaw. Use vinegar of 5–6% acidity and don't weaken the brine below the amounts here. Where most people go wrong is stuffing the peppers loosely, so the cabbage floats out; pack it in firmly. Keep processed jars in a cool cupboard for up to 6 months; once opened, refrigerate and finish within 2 weeks. Chef's tip: a slice of fresh horseradish in each jar keeps the peppers crisp and adds a clean heat.
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The much-loved aloo paratha, Gujarati style: soft wholemeal dough wrapped around mashed potato tempered with cumin and asafoetida and seasoned with lemon, a little sugar, ginger and chilli. Cook on a hot griddle until golden and serve with masoor dal and banana raita.
Two thin rounds of dough sandwiched around a filling of potato, carrot, peas and cauliflower cooked with cumin, ginger and chilli and mixed with cheddar and lemon, sealed with a flour paste and shallow fried. Filling and kid-friendly. Serve hot with spring onion and yogurt dip.
Soft, leavened naan with a fragrant topping of fresh fenugreek, coriander, green chilli and garlic pressed into the dough. Traditionally roasted in a tandoor; at home cook it on an upturned earthenware tava or under a hot grill and brush with butter. Serve with a curry or dal of your choice.
Small, crisp squares of brown-sugar butter dough mixed with crunchy home-made almond praline, then topped with cinnamon and more praline. A lovely biscuit for festive tins. Like all biscuits, they feel soft in the oven and crisp up as they cool.
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Thin mint-flecked chapatis folded into square envelopes around a filling of spiced soya mince, onion, coriander and grated cheese, then cooked on a hot pan until brown-speckled. They're high in protein and great for lunch boxes. Serve hot with green, red and tamarind chutneys and salad.
A quick vegetable biryani made in a pressure cooker: peas, carrots, potatoes, beans and tomatoes cooked with fresh coconut, yogurt and gentle spices, then steamed with the rice until each grain is separate. Finish it with crisp potato chips and fried vegetables. Serve with masala yogurt.
A bright, quick rice dish: boiled rice gently mixed with sweetcorn and julienned red and green capsicum tempered with cumin and curry leaves, sharpened with lemon juice. It's light and colourful. Serve with plain yogurt or masala yogurt.
Chapatis are the everyday Indian flatbread: thin rounds of soft wholemeal dough, cooked on a hot tava and then puffed over a wire mesh on the flame. Spread with ghee and serve with any curry or dal. Tip from the book: you can half-cook a stack of rotis ahead and do the final roasting just before serving.
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