Sour tuna curry
Ambul thiyal means 'sour stew', and it comes from the fishing towns of the south coast, around Matara, Galle and Tangalle. Fishermen once cooked it so the tuna would keep for days without a fridge: almost no liquid, plenty of goraka and black pepper, slowly reduced in a clay pot until each chunk is dark and coated. Today it is a favourite rice-and-curry dish on Sundays and holidays, and people often pack it for long journeys. It is sharp, peppery and firm, so a little goes a long way with rice and a coconut sambol. Chef's tip: cut the tuna into big 4 cm chunks; small pieces fall apart during the long, slow reduction.
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Madhureem are elegant festive sweets: a smooth, green pistachio coating cooked in syrup wraps a filling of roasted mawa (khoya) and chopped nuts in saffron and cardamom syrup. Each is pressed and topped with edible silver leaf (varakh). Makes 15–20 — a beautiful sweet for weddings and Diwali.
Kesaria ghari are pretty fluted sweets: a soft coating of paneer and mawa (khoya) cooked with sugar and milk wraps a golden filling of coconut and milk powder in saffron syrup. They're milky, delicate and fragrant with cardamom. Press them in a patterned mould and decorate with flaked nuts; the recipe makes 14.
Katlo pak is a traditional Gujarati winter sweet, eaten for strength and warmth: wheat flour and oats roasted in ghee with fried edible gum, coconut, nuts and a warming blend of katlo, dill, aniseed, fenugreek, ginger and spices, set with a dark jaggery 'pie'. It's crumbly, rich and spicy-sweet. Makes about 50 pieces; eat one a day in the cold months.
Kesar paneer kali are oval sweets of soft home-made paneer coloured with saffron, poached in light rose syrup and soaked overnight, then split and filled with cherries and pistachio. They're spongy, juicy and delicately floral. Serve them chilled; the book's photo shows them topped with a swirl of whipped cream too.
A royal kheer that combines roasted vermicelli and short-grain rice in thickened milk enriched with mawa (khoya, dried milk solids), ground almonds and pistachios. Saffron and cardamom perfume it, and crisp cubes of fresh apple are stirred in at the end. Serve chilled, topped with almond and pistachio flakes.
The basic eggless vanilla cake cut into three layers, soaked in pineapple syrup and layered with pineapple pieces, fresh coconut and whipped cream, like the cocktail. Make it the day before: it needs to chill overnight. Leave out the Malibu (coconut rum) for children.
Sukhdi (gol papdi) is one of the simplest Gujarati sweets: wheat flour roasted in ghee until pink and fragrant, then mixed with jaggery and aniseed and set in a tray. It's soft, crumbly and caramel-sweet, with a gentle liquorice note from the aniseed. Makes about 25 squares and keeps well for travelling.
Adadiya pak is a classic Gujarati winter sweet: coarse black gram (urad) flour is rubbed with milk, roasted slowly in ghee until brown and sweet-smelling, then mixed with popped edible gum, almonds, pistachios, sugar and plenty of ginger, mace and cardamom. It's rich, crumbly and warming, eaten a piece a day through the cold months. Makes about 30 squares.
A simple, wholesome Gujarati sweet: doughnut-shaped dumplings of coarse and fine wheat flour with gram flour are steamed, then ground into soft crumbs. Each person mixes in hot ghee and powdered sugar to their own taste. Serve warm as a filling winter treat.
A quick, rich sweet of dates melted down in butter, then mixed with milk chocolate, chopped nuts, coconut and rice krispies and pressed into a tray. It's chewy, chocolatey and crisp. Makes about 30 diamonds; keep them in the fridge and serve cold.
Nutty halwa is a jewel-bright, chewy halwa in the Bombay (Karachi) halwa style: starch washed out of a wheat dough is cooked with syrup for well over an hour, with ghee added spoon by spoon until it shines, then studded with almonds, pistachios and cashews. It's glossy, chewy and fragrant with cardamom and saffron. Makes about 42 pieces; serve it warm.
Pretty little plaits of saffron, almond and pistachio pastry, deep-fried until golden and dipped in a light saffron syrup. They're crisp outside, soft and nutty inside, and finished with almond and pistachio flakes and cardamom. Makes about 30; lovely on a festive sweet platter.
A quick baked pudding of apples softened with condensed milk and cinnamon, layered over a buttery ginger-biscuit, nut and coconut base and topped with brown sugar. It's sweet, warmly spiced and crunchy underneath. Serve it warm on its own or with ice cream.
A simple frozen dessert of fresh strawberries blended with orange juice and frozen in a mould. It's tangy, fruity and fat free, perfect after a heavy meal on a hot day. Serve it straight from the freezer with sliced strawberries.
A smooth, rich chocolate mousse made without eggs or gelatine: milk, cocoa and dark chocolate are thickened with custard and set with agar-agar, then beaten with sweetened cream. It's silky, chocolatey and fully vegetarian. Serve cold, decorated with whipped cream and chocolate curls.
A five-minute layered pudding of whipped vanilla cream, crushed chocolate chip cookies and halved black and green grapes, served in a glass bowl so you can see the layers. It's creamy, crunchy and fresh. Serve chilled, sprinkled with brown sugar.
A light, set lemon cheesecake: home-made cottage cheese beaten with sugar, lemon and egg yolks, set with gelatine and lightened with whisked egg whites and cream, on a ginger biscuit base. It's fresh, tangy and fluffy. Note that it uses raw eggs and gelatine, which isn't vegetarian; see the last step for an agar-agar swap. Not suitable for pregnant women, young children or the elderly because of the raw egg.
A striking three-layer barfi: a white layer of milk powder and coconut, a middle of melted chocolate, and a yellow layer of saffron cashew fudge on top. Cut into diamonds, it shows off its stripes and tastes rich, nutty and creamy. Makes 30–35; a showpiece for festive sweet boxes.
Kulfi is India's dense, creamy frozen dessert, made by boiling milk down to half and enriching it with mawa (khoya, dried milk solids), condensed milk, saffron, cardamom and ground nuts. It freezes slowly into a firm, rich ice that's sliced rather than scooped. Serve it in slices, garnished with almonds and pistachios.
Crisp, buttery half-moon pastries filled with chopped apricots, pears, figs, cherries and almonds soaked in honey with a little cardamom and cinnamon. They're sweet, fruity and lightly spiced. Serve them hot with ice cream, or cold with tea; the recipe makes about 36 small pastries.
A cold 'soufflé' of mango pulp and orange jelly beaten with whipped evaporated milk until light and airy, folded with mango cubes and topped with sweetened cream. It's fruity, fluffy and refreshing. Ordinary packet jelly is made with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; use a vegetarian (agar-based) jelly to make it suitable.
A cool layered pudding of ripe mango with cardamom and almonds, covered with a vanilla milk 'faluda' set with agar-agar. It's fruity, creamy and lightly spiced, and fully vegetarian. Make it in a glass dish so the layers show, and serve chilled with mango slices, cherries and almonds.
A colourful fruit salad of pineapple, apple, pear, grapes, pawpaw, melon balls and fresh lychees, coated in a light lemon syrup just before serving. It's juicy, refreshing and naturally light. Serve it chilled, garnished with mint, on its own or with ice cream.
Crisp, sweet coconut pastry cases baked in boat or muffin moulds, then filled with sweetened whipped cream and topped with fresh fruit such as kiwi, mango and grapes. The cases keep for days in a tin, so you only need to fill them before serving. The recipe makes about 30 small tarts.
A frozen, Christmas-style pudding: a mould lined with vanilla ice cream and filled with chocolate ice cream rippled with rum-soaked dried fruit and nuts, then turned out and served in wedges with cinnamon whipped cream. It contains rum or brandy, and the book sets the fruit with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; the last steps give an agar-agar and an alcohol-free swap. Start it two days ahead.
Thin, eggless pancakes made from plain flour and cornflour, rolled around sliced strawberries and sweetened whipped cream and topped with a fresh strawberry sauce. They're soft, fruity and creamy. Serve straight away, dusted with icing sugar.
An eggless take on tiramisu: soft home-baked sponge fingers soaked in a Baileys and coffee cream, covered with whipped cream and cream cheese, and finished with grated white and dark chocolate and strawberries. It contains alcohol (Baileys Irish cream liqueur); see the last step for an alcohol-free swap. Make it a few hours ahead so it can chill and set.
A generous pie of firm pears, cooking apples and raisins with lemon, baked in a crisp shortcrust case under a cinnamon crumble made crunchy with cornflakes. It's fruity, tangy and buttery. Serve it warm with ice cream.
A homely baked pudding of julienned cooking apples tossed with breadcrumbs and cinnamon, topped with a buttery almond mixture and baked until golden. The apples turn soft and tangy under a crisp, nutty crust. Serve it warm with ice cream or custard sauce.
An easy no-churn ice cream: whipped cream and whisked frozen evaporated milk folded together with fresh passion fruit seeds and a little essence. It's light, tangy and speckled with crunchy seeds. The recipe makes about 3 litres; serve it in scoops with wafer rolls or nuts.
A no-bake cheesecake on a chocolate biscuit base, made with cream cheese and chopped chocolate caramel bars and marbled with home-made butterscotch and chocolate sauces. It's rich, creamy and very sweet. The book sets it with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; the last step gives an agar-agar swap.
Classic choux pastry éclairs filled with sweetened whipped cream, topped with coffee icing and a zigzag of melted chocolate. They're crisp, light and creamy. Note that choux pastry is made with eggs. Serve them the day they're filled.
A light cheesecake built on a soft orange sponge base, with a set filling of condensed milk, cream cheese, cream and orange juice, topped with whipped cream and sliced kiwi fruit. It's tangy, creamy and refreshing. The book sets it with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; the last step gives an agar-agar swap.
Juicy fresh pineapple tossed with brown sugar and baked under a spiced wholemeal and oat crumble topped with chopped nuts. It's sweet, tangy and crunchy. Serve it hot with a scoop of ice cream.
Little eggless ring doughnuts made from a simple soft milk dough, fried until golden and coated with melted chocolate. They're crisp outside and soft inside. Serve them with ice cream, or dust with icing sugar instead and serve at tea time.
A no-bake layered pudding with the flavours of piña colada: tea biscuits soaked in pineapple syrup, layered with vanilla whipped cream, fresh coconut and crushed pineapple, and topped with toasted coconut. It's creamy, tropical and alcohol-free. Make it a few hours ahead and serve chilled.
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