Yuzu and chilli paste
In the mountain villages of Kyushu, especially Oita and Fukuoka, families make yuzu kosho in late summer, when yuzu are still green and the chillies are at their hottest (in Kyushu dialect 'kosho' means chilli, not pepper). Zest and chillies are ground with salt in a suribachi until they turn into a bright, coarse paste, then left to mature for a week or more. A tiny dab lifts hot-pot, grilled chicken or fish, sashimi, miso soup and even a bowl of udon; it is intensely citrusy, salty and hot all at once. It is a fresh chilli paste, so it lives in the fridge or the freezer, never on the shelf, and the salt (about 15% of the paste) is what keeps it. The common mistake is grating into the white pith, which makes it bitter; take only the thin green layer. It is ready when the paste is fine, moist and evenly coloured and the raw chilli edge has softened into a rounded heat, after about a week. No yuzu? Use the zest of green limes with a little lemon, or sudachi or kabosu. Wear gloves when you handle the chillies. Chef's tip: ripe yellow yuzu with red chillies makes the orange version for winter; same method.
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