In Tamil homes ellu sadam is cooked on Saturdays and temple days, and it is one of the variety rices that keeps best in a school lunch box, because the dry sesame powder soaks up the oil and does not spoil the way coconut rice can. The powder is roasted from black sesame, urad dal and dried red chillies, ground coarse and tossed through plain rice with a nutty gingelly oil tempering. The usual mistake is roasting the sesame too hard: it turns bitter within seconds, so take it off as soon as it starts to pop and smell toasty. Chef's tip: pound the powder rather than blitzing it to dust, so you keep a little crunch from the dal.
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A no-cook party snack of crunchy fried peas, peanuts and crushed crisps, tossed at the last minute with cubes of cheese, onion, green chilli and coriander. Mix the two parts just before serving so everything stays crisp.
Thinly rolled bread slices wrapped around a spiced filling of mashed potato, cheese and onion, sealed and fried until golden and crunchy. A party favourite that you can roll ahead and fry just before serving. Serve hot with red chutney.
Crisp, buttery crackers topped with a chaat-style mixture of crushed roasted peanuts, chilli, garlic, coriander and lemon. There's no cooking: just mix and spoon on. Assemble them just before serving so the crackers stay crisp.
Small cubes of potato tossed in chilli, lemon and salt, dusted with maize, wheat and gram flour and deep fried until crunchy. Fry them in small portions so each bhajiya stays separate. Serve hot with chandu bhajiya chutney.
A silky, deep orange soup of carrots and onion with plenty of fresh ginger, sweetened with a little honey and finished with butter. It's light, warming and good for a cold day. Serve it topped with fine shreds of fresh ginger and some bread sticks.
A clear, gingery broth with mushrooms, Chinese cabbage and fine rice noodles, seasoned with soy sauce and a little cider vinegar. It's light and quick, and good when you want something warming but not heavy. Serve it in warmed bowls.
A smooth, everyday soup of carrots and tomatoes, blended with potato for body and finished with a cumin tempering and mixed herbs. For a plain tomato soup, use more tomatoes and fewer carrots; for cream of tomato soup, stir in 4 tbsp fresh cream. Serve hot with garlic bread.
A quick party bread made from ready pizza bases, spread with a garlic, green chilli and herb butter, sprinkled with chilli flakes and baked until crisp. Make the spread ahead and bake the bread just before serving, cut into triangles.
A hearty Italian vegetable soup with cannellini beans, cabbage and a little spaghetti, finished with a bright basil and tomato pesto stirred in at the end. Don't let it boil hard once the vegetables are in: over-boiled soups lose their colour and body. Serve hot with crisp garlic toast.
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