Stuffed beef rolls
Rinderrouladen are the Sunday and holiday roast of Germany, made by grandmothers from the Rhineland to Saxony and served at Christmas with red cabbage and potato dumplings. Thin slices of beef are spread with mustard and rolled round smoked bacon (pork), onion and gherkin, then browned and braised for two hours in red wine and stock until tender, giving a deep, glossy gravy. For an alcohol-free version use extra stock with a tablespoon of red wine vinegar. The usual mistake is rolls that unravel in the pot; tie them firmly or pin with two cocktail sticks. Slow-cooker: after browning, cook on low for 7 hours, then thicken the sauce in a pan. Chef's tip: ask the butcher for topside sliced 5 mm thick and beat it a little thinner, so it rolls easily without tearing.
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Mathia are thin, crisp, slightly sweet and peppery wafers made from mathia flour, a mix of ground husked moong and urad dal. They are a classic Gujarati Diwali snack. The dough is pounded until pale, rolled very thin between plastic sheets and fried one at a time. They are fragile, so store them gently. To make mathia flour, finely grind 4 parts husked green gram lentils with 1 part husked black gram lentils.
Bhabhri are long, thin strips of plain and gram flour dough, fried until crisp and tossed straight away in a mix of powdered sugar, chilli, citric acid and salt. They are sweet, tangy and lightly spicy at once, and a favourite tea-time nasta. Pounding the dough makes it lighter in colour and gives the strips their crisp, flaky bite. They keep for weeks in an air-tight container.
Chakri (also called chakli) are crisp, ridged spirals piped from a sev press and deep-fried. This version uses rice flour with a little gram flour and plain flour, flavoured with fresh coriander, ginger, chilli, sesame and lemon, with a touch of sugar. They are a Diwali favourite and keep well in an air-tight tin.
Fafadia gathia are pale, airy strands of gram flour dough rubbed through a gathia jara straight into hot oil. Beating the salt and kharo water until white and frothy, then kneading the dough hard, makes them light and melt-in-the-mouth. Serve with fried green chillies, papaya sambharo or jalebi. For fuli (puffed) gathia, use coarsely ground black pepper instead of white pepper and press the dough through a fuli jara.
Small, crisp fried puris flavoured with cumin seeds and plenty of black pepper. The butter rubbed into the flour makes them short and flaky, and frying them slowly over low heat keeps them crisp right through. Serve them as a snack with tea; they keep for weeks in an air-tight tin.
Tum tum are thick, chunky gram flour sticks pressed through a 1 cm disc, spiced with chilli, cumin-coriander, black pepper and ajwain, and balanced with lemon and sugar. They are hot, tangy and crunchy, perfect with tea, and one of the components of bhusu.
Sanchar papdi are thin diamonds of rice, gram and urad flour dough that blister and bubble as they fry, then get a dusting of sugar, chilli and sanchar (black salt). They are crisp, light and tangy, and a lovely tea-time snack. Pounding the dough until pale makes them extra crisp.
Potato chakri are crisp, light spirals made with rice flour and boiled potato, flavoured with ginger, chilli, lemon, sesame and coriander. The potato makes them extra tender-crisp. They keep for about 3 weeks in an air-tight container, so make them ahead for Diwali or guests.
Bhusu is a festive farsan mix: crunchy fried pulses and lentils, three kinds of sev, tum tum, bundi, sakarpada cubes, puffed rice, cashews and peanuts, all tossed in a sweet, sour and spicy seasoning. It makes a large batch for Diwali and keeps for weeks in air-tight tins. It's a project spread over a few days, because the pulses need soaking first. Make the jini sev, jadi sev, tum tum and sakarpada from their own recipes in this section.
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