Semolina and coconut cookies
Bolinhas (small balls in Portuguese) are the cookies Goan Catholic families bake in batches for the Christmas kuswar, the tins of sweets sent to friends and neighbours in Panjim and Salcete in mid-December. Fresh coconut is cooked briefly in a sugar syrup, mixed with semolina and left overnight so the grains soften, then bound with butter and egg yolks, shaped into small balls, marked with a fork or a cross and baked until golden. The texture is sandy and crumbly outside with a chewy coconut centre, and they smell of cardamom and browned butter. They contain egg yolk, so they are vegetarian with egg, not vegan. The common mistake is baking them the same day: unsoaked semolina stays gritty and the cookies spread. Chef's tip: shape with slightly damp hands and keep them small, about 3 cm; they puff a little and need room on the tray.
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A simple, wholesome Gujarati sweet: doughnut-shaped dumplings of coarse and fine wheat flour with gram flour are steamed, then ground into soft crumbs. Each person mixes in hot ghee and powdered sugar to their own taste. Serve warm as a filling winter treat.
Kesar mani is a rich, crumbly Gujarati sweet of gram flour roasted in ghee with popped edible gum, then mixed with milk powder, coconut, ground nuts, cinnamon, cardamom and saffron. It's nutty, fragrant and warming, a favourite in the winter months. Makes 25–30 pieces.
These pendas (pedas) take minutes in the microwave: milk powder, cream, sugar and ground almonds cook together into a soft fudge flavoured with cardamom and saffron, then are shaped into rounds. They're milky, nutty and melt in the mouth. Makes about 35 — press them into small moulds for pretty shapes.
A classic buttery loaf cake dotted with glacé cherries and sultanas, perfect sliced at tea time. Toss the fruit in a little flour so it stays spread through the cake. Contains egg.
A homely eggless cake made with crushed Weetabix (wheat biscuit cereal), chopped apple, cashews and cinnamon, bound with condensed milk. Serve warm with ice cream.
Mulayum pak is a soft, rich Gujarati sweet of gram flour rubbed with ghee and milk (dhraba), roasted golden with puffed edible gum (gund) and plenty of nuts, then set with a saffron milk syrup. It's fragrant with cardamom, nutmeg and mace and melts in the mouth. Makes about 42 squares; serve at Diwali or keep in a tin for guests.
A shiny chocolate coating of melted cooking chocolate and a spoonful of ghee. Melt it gently over hot water or in the microwave; never let any water touch it. Once dry it gives the cake a lovely shine.
A moist eggless cake made with semolina, coconut and yogurt, baked with slivered almonds on the bottom and top and moistened with orange juice. Serve with coconut ice cream or custard sauce.
Sweetened whipped cream with vanilla for coating cakes and piping decorations. An electric beater can be used, but for an inexperienced cook a hand whisk is safer: over-beating curdles the cream.
Kesar paneer kali are oval sweets of soft home-made paneer coloured with saffron, poached in light rose syrup and soaked overnight, then split and filled with cherries and pistachio. They're spongy, juicy and delicately floral. Serve them chilled; the book's photo shows them topped with a swirl of whipped cream too.
A quick almond sweet made in minutes in the microwave: semolina toasted in butter, mixed with coarsely ground almonds, saffron and sweetened condensed milk, then set in a tray. It's soft, nutty and fragrant with cardamom. Makes 20 squares, ideal when guests are on the way.
Pandadi are delicate layered pastries: thin rounds of butter dough stacked with custard powder, rolled, sliced and fried so the layers puff and flake. Once drained they're dusted with icing sugar, ground nuts, cardamom and saffron and scattered with rose petals. Makes about 40–45; a special-occasion sweet that keeps well in a tin.
An eggless Christmas cake: sultanas, raisins, currants, cherries and peel are soaked overnight in apple juice, then baked with nuts, pumpkin seeds, lemon rind, ginger, cinnamon and a splash of brandy or rum. Start the day before.
An eggless chocolate fudge icing made with butter, milk, cocoa and drinking chocolate. Coat the cake while the icing is still warm; it thickens as it cools and can also be piped.
An easy baked sweet of grated mawa (khoya) and fresh coconut mixed with warm milk, nuts, saffron, cardamom and nutmeg, baked until set and fragrant. It's soft, rich and milky, somewhere between a halwa and a pudding. Serve it hot, decorated with nuts and cardamom.
Soft, milky pendas made from mawa (khoya) and crumbled paneer cooked down in sweetened milk, flavoured with saffron, cardamom and a little nutmeg. The mixture is pressed into small moulds to give pretty shapes. Makes 15; serve as a festive sweet or offering.
An upside-down cake: poached apple slices, cinnamon, chocolate sauce and macadamia nuts go in the bottom of the tin, a vanilla sponge is baked on top, and the cake is turned out to show the apples. Serve warm with custard sauce. Contains egg.
A rich, glossy chocolate frosting made with melted cooking chocolate, butter and an egg, then thickened with icing sugar. Use it to fill or cover cakes, swirling it on with a palette knife. Contains egg.
A light butter icing for all basic sponge cakes, flavoured with the essence of your choice. Add a little milk for a softer icing for piping, or use cocoa instead of the cornflour to make chocolate butter icing.
A rich butter cake flavoured with cinnamon and packed with almonds, cashews, walnuts and macadamias, then covered with melted chocolate and nut flakes. Serve with sweetened fresh cream. Contains egg.
A no-bake cheesecake on a chocolate biscuit base, made with cream cheese and chopped chocolate caramel bars and marbled with home-made butterscotch and chocolate sauces. It's rich, creamy and very sweet. The book sets it with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; the last step gives an agar-agar swap.
Thin, eggless pancakes made from plain flour and cornflour, rolled around sliced strawberries and sweetened whipped cream and topped with a fresh strawberry sauce. They're soft, fruity and creamy. Serve straight away, dusted with icing sugar.
A cool layered pudding of ripe mango with cardamom and almonds, covered with a vanilla milk 'faluda' set with agar-agar. It's fruity, creamy and lightly spiced, and fully vegetarian. Make it in a glass dish so the layers show, and serve chilled with mango slices, cherries and almonds.
A generous pie of firm pears, cooking apples and raisins with lemon, baked in a crisp shortcrust case under a cinnamon crumble made crunchy with cornflakes. It's fruity, tangy and buttery. Serve it warm with ice cream.
A frozen, Christmas-style pudding: a mould lined with vanilla ice cream and filled with chocolate ice cream rippled with rum-soaked dried fruit and nuts, then turned out and served in wedges with cinnamon whipped cream. It contains rum or brandy, and the book sets the fruit with gelatine, which is not vegetarian; the last steps give an agar-agar and an alcohol-free swap. Start it two days ahead.
Juicy fresh pineapple tossed with brown sugar and baked under a spiced wholemeal and oat crumble topped with chopped nuts. It's sweet, tangy and crunchy. Serve it hot with a scoop of ice cream.
Crisp, buttery half-moon pastries filled with chopped apricots, pears, figs, cherries and almonds soaked in honey with a little cardamom and cinnamon. They're sweet, fruity and lightly spiced. Serve them hot with ice cream, or cold with tea; the recipe makes about 36 small pastries.
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