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Kolkata biryani
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Kolkata biryani

Mutton, potato and egg biryani

Kolkata biryani came with the exiled Nawab of Awadh to Metiabruz in the 19th century and grew its own character: light on chilli, perfumed with kewra, rose water and saffron, and famous for its golden potato. During Durga Puja the city's biryani shops have queues round the block, and many families make a big handi at home for Navami. Mutton (goat) is marinated in yoghurt, cooked tender, then layered with part-cooked long-grain rice, fried potatoes and boiled eggs and sealed for dum. Common mistake: boiling the rice fully before layering; drain it at about 70 per cent cooked (it should still break with a small hard core) or it turns mushy on dum. The mutton must reach 71 °C and be tender before it goes under the rice. Chef's tip: fry the potatoes in the marinade's spices first; they soak up the meat juices on dum and many people think they are the best part.

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