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Bún thang

Vermicelli with chicken and egg

Bún thang began as a thrifty Hanoi meal made from the leftovers of Tết, the lunar new year feast, and it is still the most delicate noodle soup in the city, served in small, careful bowls on Cầu Gỗ Street near Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Fine vermicelli sits under neat piles of shredded chicken, thread-thin omelette strips and giò lụa, a smooth Vietnamese pork roll, all covered with a clear broth sweetened by dried shrimp and shiitake. It is eaten for a light lunch or a late breakfast. Chef's tip: keep the broth at a bare simmer and skim often; boiling makes it cloudy.

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