Featured recipe

Futari

Pumpkin and cassava in coconut milk

When the call to prayer sounds at sunset during Ramadan in Stone Town, tables fill with dates, spiced tea and a pot of futari, chunks of pumpkin, cassava or sweet potato cooked in lightly sweetened coconut milk until soft and creamy. It is gentle food for an empty stomach: sweet, mellow and fragrant with cardamom and a hint of cinnamon, with the vegetables just holding their shape. Families eat it on its own, warm or at room temperature, or alongside savoury mandazi and samosas. Cassava must always be cooked right through and never eaten raw: buy it from a grocer (frozen peeled cassava is easiest), cut out the woody core, and boil it until soft before it goes into the coconut milk. Chef's tip: add the thick coconut cream only at the end and keep it below a boil, or it splits and goes oily.

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TorrijasCinnamon fried bread

Torrijas are the Easter sweet of Spain, eaten all over the country during Semana Santa and especially in Madrid and Andalusia, where bakeries pile them in their windows. Thick slices of day-old bread are soaked in milk infused with cinnamon and lemon peel, dipped in beaten egg, fried in olive oil and rolled in cinnamon sugar. They were born as a way to use up stale bread during Lent, and they are crisp outside and soft and custardy inside, like a richer, crunchier French toast. Eat them warm or cold, the next day they are even more set and sweet. Chef's tip: use a dense day-old loaf (a Spanish 'pan de torrijas' or a firm baguette) cut 2–3 cm thick, and soak just until saturated; fresh, airy bread falls apart and fries greasy.

30 min

Spanish Desserts

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Morning glory with garlicGarlic stir-fried water spinach

Rau muống, water spinach or morning glory, is the everyday green of Vietnam, and a plate of it stir-fried with garlic sits on family tables everywhere, from Hanoi rice-shops to Saigon street stalls. Done well, the hollow stems stay crunchy and bright green and the leaves silky, with a strong hit of garlic. Look for it in Asian grocers as water spinach or ong choy. This version is seasoned with soy sauce instead of fish sauce. Chef's tip: blanch the greens for 30 seconds and plunge them into iced water, as Hanoi cooks do, then stir-fry over the highest heat for barely a minute; they stay vivid green and never go soggy.

10 min

Vietnamese Sides

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Salmorejo cordobésThick chilled tomato and bread soup

Salmorejo is Córdoba's answer to gazpacho: thicker, richer and simpler, made with just ripe tomatoes, bread, garlic, olive oil and salt, blended into a cream so dense a spoon almost stands up in it. In Córdoba it is served in a shallow earthenware bowl as a first course or tapa, topped with chopped hard-boiled egg and diced cured ham; this vegetarian version keeps the egg (leave it out for a vegan dish) and adds a few crunchy croutons and a thread of olive oil. Chef's tip: use bread with a dense, tight crumb, like a day-old Spanish 'pan de telera' or a firm white loaf; airy supermarket bread makes salmorejo thin and gluey.

15 min

Spanish Soups

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Vegetarian broken rice plateBroken rice with lemongrass tofu

Cơm tấm, 'broken rice', is the breakfast and lunch plate of Saigon. Broken grains, once sold cheaply to the poor, cook up soft and slightly sticky, and street stalls serve them with grilled meat, a crisp-edged fried egg, spring onion oil, pickles and cucumber. This vegetarian plate has caramelised lemongrass tofu in place of pork. Every part goes with the sweet-sour nước chấm spooned over the top. Chef's tip: fry the egg in hot oil and spoon the oil over the white, so the edges go lacy and crisp and the yolk stays runny, Saigon-style; break it over the rice and it becomes part of the sauce.

45 min

Vietnamese Rice & Grains

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Pan con tomateTomato rubbed toast

Pa amb tomàquet (pan con tomate in Spanish) is the everyday bread of Catalonia: toasted country bread rubbed with garlic and a cut ripe tomato, drizzled with good olive oil and sprinkled with salt. Catalans eat it at breakfast, as a side to grilled vegetables or with a slice of tortilla, and it is so basic to the table that it is rarely even listed on menus. With so few ingredients the quality of each one matters: the ripest tomatoes, a rustic open-crumbed loaf and fruity extra virgin olive oil. Chef's tip: in Catalonia they use small, juicy 'tomàquets de penjar', hanging tomatoes; at home choose the ripest, softest vine tomatoes you can find and rub them in hard until only the skin is left in your hand.

10 min

Spanish Breakfast & Brunch

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Tortilla españolaSpanish potato omelette

Tortilla de patatas is the dish every Spanish bar keeps on the counter, from Madrid to Seville: a thick cake of soft potato and sweet onion bound with just-set egg, served warm or at room temperature in wedges or small squares (pinchos) with bread. The potatoes are not fried crisp but gently poached in plenty of olive oil until tender, then soaked in the beaten egg so every slice holds together. Spaniards argue about onion (con cebolla or sin) and about how runny the centre should be; this version has onion and a juicy middle, the way most bars in Madrid serve it. Eat it for breakfast, as a tapa or for a light supper with a tomato salad. Chef's tip: once the hot potatoes go into the beaten eggs, leave them to sit for 10 minutes before cooking; the egg starts to set around the potato and the tortilla turns out creamy and holds its shape.

50 min

Spanish Breakfast & Brunch

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