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Nihari kulcha
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Nihari kulcha

Slow-cooked mutton shank with bread

Nihari, from the Arabic word for morning, is Lucknow's great breakfast: around Akbari Gate and the Chowk, old shops simmer mutton shanks overnight in a deep pot of spiced, ghee-glossed gravy and serve it from dawn, especially during Ramadan, with soft, faintly sweet Lucknowi kulcha. The meat falls from the bone, the marrow melts into the gravy, and every bowl is finished at the table with shredded ginger, green chilli and lemon. Chef's tip: keep it at the barest simmer; a rolling boil makes the meat tight and stringy.

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