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Trini corn soup

Split pea and corn soup

Long after midnight, when a fete in Port of Spain empties out, vendors ladle corn soup from huge pots: a thick yellow broth of split peas, pumpkin and coconut milk with chunks of corn on the cob, little flour dumplings and plenty of chadon beni. It is filling, slightly sweet and peppery, and eaten by holding the corn in your fingers. Some pots include pig tail; this one is vegetarian. The common mistake is adding the dumplings too early, so they dissolve and cloud the soup; they go in for the last 15 minutes. Chef's tip: blend only half the soup so it is creamy yet still has pieces of pumpkin and pea.

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