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Souskluitjies
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Souskluitjies

Dumplings in cinnamon syrup

Boland farm kitchens served souskluitjies after Sunday lunch when it was too wet and cold for anything chilled: spoonfuls of soft batter poached in a covered pot until they swell into light, cloud-like dumplings, then bathed in a hot syrup of butter, sugar and cinnamon. Each one is fluffy inside with a tender, slightly slick outside that drinks up the sauce, and the syrup pools at the bottom of the bowl for spooning up last. They are good on their own and even better with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a jug of thin custard. Lifting the lid while they poach is the usual mistake, because the steam escapes and the dumplings sink and turn heavy. Chef's tip: dip your spoon in the simmering water before scooping each dumpling so the batter slides off cleanly and keeps a neat round shape.

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Chorba beida (Algerian white chicken soup)

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Djelbana (Algerian lamb and pea stew)

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Nnam ngon with mushrooms

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Ayamase (ofada green pepper stew)

Ofada rice, the short, fragrant local rice from Ogun State, is almost always served in Lagos with ayamase, a stew so green and so hot it is sometimes called designer stew. Green bell peppers and green scotch bonnets are blended coarse, dried out in the pot, then fried in palm oil that has been bleached clear, with plenty of iru for a deep, funky savouriness. Assorted meat (beef, tripe and cow skin) and boiled eggs are folded in. Watery pepper is the mistake that makes it taste sour and raw, so boil the blended pepper dry before it meets the oil. Chef's tip: bleaching palm oil makes heavy smoke; open the windows, keep the lid nearby and never leave the pot.

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