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Malai ko
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Malai ko

Steamed brown sugar sponge

Cut from a towering round the colour of toffee, wedges of malai ko arrive on the dim sum trolleys of old Hong Kong teahouses alongside the morning's first pot of tea. The crumb is moist, open and bouncy, with a deep caramel note from dark brown sugar and a gentle richness from evaporated milk. The name means 'Malay cake', a nod to the Southeast Asian steamed cakes said to have inspired Cantonese bakers, and it is eaten warm, just as it is, often as the last sweet bite of breakfast. The cake sinks when the eggs and sugar aren't whisked long enough to hold a trail, so give them the full time. Chef's tip: wrap the steamer lid in a tea towel so condensation can't drip onto the top and leave sticky dents.

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