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Kpokpoi

Steamed fermented corn with palm oil

When the Ga people of Accra celebrate Homowo each August, a harvest festival whose name means 'hooting at hunger', chiefs sprinkle kpokpoi on the ground for the ancestors and families eat it from big bowls with palm nut soup. The fermented corn dough is steamed into fluffy, slightly sour crumbs, then rubbed with red palm oil and chopped okra so every grain is coated and the dish is pale orange and loose, not sticky. The festive soup is usually made with fish; this version is meat-free, and a vegetable palm nut soup or a simple pepper sauce goes well with it. Chef's tip: rub the steamed crumbs through a coarse sieve or between your palms while still warm; the usual mistake is leaving lumps, which stay doughy in the middle.

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