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Stigghiola

Grilled lamb intestines

Stigghiola is the smell of Palermo after dark: lamb intestines wound around spring onions or parsley stalks and grilled over smoking braziers in the Ballarò market, in the alleys of the Kalsa and on the seafront at the Foro Italico. Sellers chop the long coils into pieces, salt them and squeeze over lemon, and people eat them standing, from paper, late in the evening. Smoky, crisp at the edges and rich, it is offal at its most direct. At home, buy cleaned lamb intestines from a halal or specialist butcher, wash them again carefully and parboil them before grilling, so they cook right through. Chef's tip: wind the intestine tightly around the onion; loose coils unravel and fall through the grill.

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