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Nam prik ong
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Nam prik ong

Tomato and pork chilli dip

Every khantoke dinner in Chiang Mai sets out a bowl of this brick-red relish beside the sticky rice baskets, and morning markets sell it by the scoop in little plastic bags. It sits somewhere between a chunky meat sauce and a dip: sweet-sour from slow-cooked cherry tomatoes, savoury from shrimp paste and pork, with a gentle chilli warmth rather than a blast. Scoop it up with cucumber, blanched long beans, cabbage wedges and crisp pork crackling, or press a ball of sticky rice into it. Chef's tip: fry the pounded paste in the oil until it darkens and smells toasty before the pork goes in; that is where the deep, roasted flavour comes from.

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GuarapoSugarcane juice

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Žloutkové věnečkyChoux rings with yolk cream

"Little wreaths" are the jewel of a Czech wedding cake table, where trays of sweet pastries are handed out to every guest, and they are a staple of old-style patisseries in Prague. Rings of choux pastry are split and piped with a yolk-rich custard cream that is golden, silky and buttery, then dipped in a white sugar glaze. They taste of vanilla, egg and butter and are best within a day. Where most people go wrong is a custard that is not cooked enough: it must bubble for a minute so it sets and the yolks are fully cooked. Beat the cream only once the custard and butter are both at room temperature, or it splits. Bake the rings until properly dry so they keep their crisp shape. Chef's tip: a large star nozzle gives the rings a ridged surface that holds the glaze beautifully.

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180 minRussianBaking
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130 minUzbekSoups
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GuilinggaoBittersweet herbal jelly

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Every Puerto Rican Christmas table and roadside lechonera on the Ruta del Lechón in Guavate seems to have a bowl of these: green bananas boiled, sliced into thick coins and left to steep in a garlicky olive-oil and vinegar marinade with soft onions, bay and green olives. They are sharp, silky and filling, and taste even better on the second day, so they are made in big batches for parties. The common mistake is boiling the bananas until mushy; they should be tender but still hold their coin shape. Peel them with oiled hands or gloves, because the sap stains. Chef's tip: pour the marinade over the bananas while both are still warm, so the starch soaks up the flavour.

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FlatkökurRye flatbread

Flatkökur are round, flat rye breads that Icelanders char straight on the hot plate of the stove, or over a gas flame, until they are speckled black and smoky; they are eaten buttered, with smoked lamb (hangikjöt) or cheese, at every Christmas and confirmation and in lunchboxes all year. The dough is made with boiling water so it is soft and easy to roll. A common mistake is letting the dough cool before rolling; scalded rye dough stiffens and cracks. Chef's tip: roll it while warm and prick all over with a fork so it stays flat as it chars.

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240 minBalkanBaking
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45 minScandinavianChicken
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GulpiSpiced cauliflower

Gulpi is what an Afghan family cooks on an ordinary weeknight in Kabul or Jalalabad when cauliflower is cheap in the bazaar, and it is set on the dastarkhan, the cloth spread on the floor for meals, alongside rice or naan and a bowl of yogurt. The florets are fried until they catch a little colour, then simmered in a thick, turmeric-yellow sauce of onion, tomato, ginger and garlic until soft enough to break with the side of a spoon, with just a gentle heat from chilli. Many cooks stir in a few potatoes or peas, and some add a small piece of meat, but it is often fully vegetarian. Adding too much water is what spoils it: the cauliflower should steam in the tomato, not boil, so the sauce clings to every floret. Chef's tip: let the florets brown properly in the oil before anything else goes in, which gives the dish its nutty, slightly sweet depth.

40 minAfghanVegetarianVeganGluten free
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Twarożek ze szczypiorkiemFresh cheese with chives

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10 minPolishBreakfast & BrunchGluten free
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GummaFried pies with lamb liver

Gumma are the hot, puffy fried pies sold from big pans on Tashkent street corners and in bazaars like Chorsu, wrapped in paper and eaten in the morning with tea. The classic filling is cheap and hearty: lamb or beef offal, usually liver, heart and lung, minced with plenty of onion and black pepper; potato gumma is the vegetarian sister. This version uses lamb's liver and heart. A common mistake is frying in oil that is not hot enough, which makes the dough greasy and heavy. Chef's tip: cook the filling fully before shaping, then fry the pies at 175 °C until puffed and golden; the dough cooks in minutes while the filling only needs warming. Offal should be cooked until no pink remains, 71 °C.

80 minUzbekFast Food
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Tvorozhnaya zapekankaBaked cottage cheese pudding

Anyone who went to a Soviet kindergarten remembers the warm yellow square of curd bake handed out at breakfast, and Russian parents still make it on weekend mornings because children eat it without a fuss. Tvorog is beaten with eggs, sugar and sour cream, thickened with semolina and dotted with raisins, then baked into a soft, gently sweet pudding somewhere between a cheesecake and a soufflé. Serve it warm or cold with sour cream, jam or condensed milk. Tvorog is usually made without rennet, but check the label if that matters to you. A common mistake is baking straight after mixing: give the semolina 15 minutes to swell, or the bake turns out gritty and loose. Chef's tip: brush a thin layer of sour cream over the top before baking for a glossy, deep golden crust.

65 minRussianBreakfast & Brunch
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Gur wale chawalJaggery rice

Every winter, when the sugarcane presses in the villages around Bahawalpur and Rahim Yar Khan boil the new season's jaggery, families celebrate with a pot of gur wale chawal. Basmati grains turn a warm amber in a syrup of melted gur and ghee, with fennel seeds and cardamom for fragrance and raisins, almonds and coconut tucked through, and the result is sweet but not sticky, each grain separate. It is cooked for weddings, for distribution on religious days and simply for guests on a cold evening, and eaten warm, sometimes with a spoonful of extra ghee on top. Adding the jaggery to raw rice is the commonest error, because sugar stops the grains from softening and they stay hard. Chef's tip: boil the rice until it is three-quarters cooked first, then fold it into the jaggery syrup and let it steam.

40 minPakistaniDessertsGluten free
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Gur wali rotiJaggery flatbread

In the cane-growing districts of Punjab, from Jhang to Mandi Bahauddin, the season when fresh gur comes out of the village kolhu is also the season for this roti, its dough kneaded with jaggery water instead of plain water so it turns a deep caramel brown on the tawa. It is crisp-edged and chewy in the middle with a toffee-like sweetness and the anise note of fennel, and mothers wrap it in a cloth for children to take to school or to the fields with a flask of tea. Some families add sesame, others a little ghee in the dough; both are good. The usual mistake is cooking it on a high flame, which burns the sugar in the jaggery black before the inside has cooked. Chef's tip: dissolve the gur in warm water and let it cool before kneading, otherwise the dough turns sticky and impossible to roll.

30 minPakistaniBreads & Parathas
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TutmanikCheese and egg yeast bread

Weddings, christenings and long Sunday lunches in western Bulgaria often begin with a tutmanik on the table, still warm and torn by hand rather than sliced. The yeast dough is enriched with yogurt, eggs and oil, rolled, scattered with crumbled white cheese, folded and baked until it rises tall and golden, with salty pockets of melted cheese running all through the soft crumb. Eat it with a glass of ayran or a bowl of tarator in summer. Sirene is often made with animal rennet, so use a white cheese labelled vegetarian. A common mistake is adding too much flour to a sticky dough; it should stay soft and slightly tacky, or the bread bakes dense. Chef's tip: brush the top with yolk mixed with a spoon of yogurt rather than milk, for the deep, glossy crust Bulgarian bakers aim for.

90 minBulgarianBreads & Parathas
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Tushuri kotoriSheep's cheese and butter pie

Up in Tusheti, a roadless high region reached by a single summer track from Kakheti, shepherds' families roll a plain dough almost see-through and wrap it around a filling of salty sheep's cheese and soft butter, then flatten the whole parcel again so the cheese spreads into thin layers. The pie is cooked on a griddle or in a pan and eaten hot with tea when the flocks come down in autumn. A common mistake is rolling too hard over the filling; the dough tears and the butter leaks out. Chef's tip: use a mix of feta-style sheep's cheese and some curd or cottage cheese, which gives the sharp-but-creamy taste of Tush cheese; traditional Tush cheese is set with animal rennet, so look for a vegetarian one.

70 minGeorgianBreads & Parathas
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Guryev kashaBaked semolina pudding with nuts

Named after Count Guryev, a nineteenth-century Russian finance minister, this pudding was the showpiece of Moscow merchant tables and grand restaurant menus, and it still appears at name-day lunches and during Maslenitsa week. Behind the humble word kasha sits a rich dessert: soft vanilla semolina layered with crackly sugared walnuts, thin golden skins lifted from baked milk and cream, and spoonfuls of apricot jam, then baked until bubbling. Serve it warm in small portions with strong black tea. Where most people go wrong is hurrying the skins; the milk needs a hot oven and patience so each skin turns golden before you lift it off. Chef's tip: use the widest shallow ovenproof dish you own for the milk, because more surface gives you more skins in the same time.

90 minRussianDesserts
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GushtabaMutton balls in yogurt gravy

No Kashmiri wedding feast ends without gushtaba. After hours of wazwan courses, the waza (master cook) brings out these large, pale balls of mutton pounded with fat until silky, swimming in a creamy yogurt gravy scented with fennel, dry ginger and cardamom, and its arrival tells guests the meal is over. Families of Kashmiri descent in Muzaffarabad, Mirpur and Rawalpindi still serve it at weddings and on special Fridays, with plain steamed rice. Good gushtaba is so smooth that it barely holds together on the spoon. Using lean meat is what lets people down: without about a quarter fat the balls turn grainy and hard. Chef's tip: traditionally the meat is pounded on a stone for an hour; at home, process it in short bursts with chilled fat and ice-cold water, stopping to scrape down, until it looks like a sticky, shiny paste.

120 minPakistaniMeatGluten free
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Turte cu julfăHemp seed cream pastry stack

On Christmas Eve (Ajunul Crăciunului), the last day of the Advent fast, old Moldavian households around Neamț and Suceava set out turte cu julfă: paper-thin baked sheets of dough stacked with a sweet cream of ground hemp seed and crushed walnuts. The sheets are said to stand for the swaddling clothes of the Christ child, and the whole cake is vegan so it can be eaten while the fast still holds. Soaked with syrup and left overnight, it softens into a dense, nutty, gently sweet slice. Buy food-grade hulled hemp seeds (hemp hearts), which are sold as a food and contain no intoxicating THC. A common mistake is cutting the cake straight away; it needs a night in the fridge to soften and hold together. Chef's tip: bake the sheets a day or two ahead and let them dry on a rack, as dry sheets soak up the syrup more evenly.

240 minRomanianDessertsVegan
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Turshu govurmaLamb with chestnuts and dried fruit

Turshu govurma, 'sour fry', is a rich southern dish from Lankaran and Masalli: lamb browned in butter or oil, then cooked slowly with onions, chestnuts, dried apricots, sour plums and a good pour of narsharab pomegranate sauce until dark, glossy and sweet-sour. It is served on top of plov at weddings or on its own with bread. A common mistake is adding the dried fruit too early, which turns it to mush. Chef's tip: finish with a pinch of saffron water and a handful of fresh pomegranate seeds, which brighten the dark sauce.

95 minAzerbaijaniMeatGluten free
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Túrós táskaSweet cheese puff pastry pockets

Every Hungarian bakery chain and village shop has a túrós táska in the case, a flaky square folded corner to corner over a fat cushion of sweet curd cheese. The filling is fresh túró beaten with egg yolk, vanilla, lemon zest and raisins, and it bakes soft and slightly tangy inside crisp, buttery puff pastry. It is a mid-morning snack with coffee, or breakfast on the go. Túró is usually made without animal rennet, but check the label if that matters to you. The usual slip is a runny filling that leaks onto the tray, so press the túró through a sieve and add a spoon of semolina to bind it. Chef's tip: chill the filled pockets for 10 minutes before baking; the cold pastry puffs higher and the corners stay folded.

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Tuo zaafi with ayoyo soupMaize swallow with jute leaf soup

In Tamale and across northern Ghana, TZ is the evening meal: a soft, smooth swallow of maize (sometimes millet) that wobbles in the bowl and is eaten with ayoyo, a bright green, slippery jute-leaf soup flavoured with dawadawa. The pair is often served with a meat or fish stew alongside; this version is fully vegan, with the ayoyo seasoned well enough to stand alone. Frozen jute leaves, sold as ewedu or molokhia, are a good substitute, and a teaspoon of miso can stand in for dawadawa. Chef's tip: make a thin porridge with part of the maize meal first and then thicken it; the usual mistake is adding all the meal at once, which makes a lumpy, stiff TZ.

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HasipLamb and rice sausage

Hasip is the sausage of Bukhara, made after Kurban Hayit, the feast of the sacrifice: lamb casings stuffed with rice mixed with chopped lamb, liver and heart, onion and cumin, boiled until firm and then sliced and fried until crisp. Bukharan families serve it hot as a first course for guests. A common mistake is overfilling the casings; the rice swells and bursts them in the pot. Chef's tip: fill them only two-thirds full and prick well before simmering, then fry the slices in a dry pan so they crisp in their own fat. The filling must reach 71 °C.

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GwaramariFried breakfast puffs

Early on a cold morning in the old lanes of Asan, Patan or Bhaktapur, small tea shops fry gwaramari in big iron pans, and office workers and schoolchildren stop for a paper twist of them with a glass of sweet milky chiya. They are round, golden puffs of wheat dough, about the size of a ping-pong ball, with a thin shattering crust and a soft, slightly chewy, airy centre lightly seasoned with turmeric, black pepper and a pinch of sugar. Newars also make them for bhoj feasts and to send to relatives after a festival. They fail most often when the dough is too stiff or not rested, which gives dense, oily lumps instead of light puffs. Chef's tip: the batter-like dough should be sticky enough to need wet fingers; pinch off pieces with oiled hands and drop them straight into oil that is hot but not smoking.

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TunnbrödThin wheat and barley flatbread

Tunnbröd, 'thin bread', is the old flatbread of Norrland, northern Sweden, where barley grew better than wheat; families in Västerbotten and Jämtland baked it in big batches in wood ovens and kept it for months. It is made soft or crisp, rolled with a knobbled pin (kruskavel) that makes its dotted pattern, and the soft kind is wrapped around a hot dog with mashed potato in the famous tunnbrödsrulle. A common mistake is rolling it too thick, which makes it bready instead of flexible. Chef's tip: bake on a very hot stone for barely a minute or two and stack the breads under a cloth, so they steam soft.

60 minScandinavianBreads & ParathasVegan
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Yo-yoOrange honey doughnut rings

Tunisian children wait for yo-yo, the small golden rings that pastry sellers stack in sticky piles at Eid, weddings and on winter afternoons, and that families fry at home for Hanukkah in the Jewish tradition of Tunis and Djerba. The dough, made with eggs, oil and fresh orange juice and zest, fries up crisp outside and soft and cake-like inside, then gets a quick dip in honey syrup and a sprinkle of sesame. Eat them the day they are made, with mint tea. Chef's tip: keep the oil at 170 °C; hotter and the outsides brown before the centres cook through.

60 minTunisianDesserts
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MhamsaPearl couscous in tomato harissa broth

Sfax cooks and families in southern Tunisia roll mhamsa, a pearl couscous somewhere between fine couscous and small pasta, in big batches in late summer and dry it in the sun for the winter. Cooked like a thick soupy stew in a tomato and harissa broth with chickpeas, peppers and pumpkin, it becomes a warming one-pot supper, soft and chewy, with a gentle heat and the sweetness of the vegetables. Bought mhamsa, moghrabieh or giant couscous works well. Fish and meat versions are common; this is the everyday vegetable way. Chef's tip: toast the mhamsa in the oil before adding liquid; it gives a nutty flavour and keeps the grains separate.

50 minTunisianPasta & NoodlesVegan
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HlalemTiny pasta and chickpea soup

Across the Sahel coast and in Kairouan, the arrival of cold weather means hlalem: a thick, red, peppery soup full of tiny hand-rolled pasta spindles, chickpeas, white beans, chard and celery, sharpened with harissa and dried mint. Rolling the pasta is a social job, often done by women together in autumn, and the dried hlalem keeps all winter. The soup is hearty enough to be a meal, earthy from the pulses and bright from the celery leaves. It is also made during Ramadan. If you do not roll your own, orzo or broken spaghettini work. Chef's tip: add the pasta only in the last 15 minutes; cooked too long it swells and drinks up all the broth.

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Haash bhunaSlow-cooked duck curry

As the cold season settles in and the vast wetlands of the Sylhet and Kishoreganj haor begin to drain, the ducks that have fattened on them all monsoon end up in the bhuna pot. Haash bhuna is deep, dark and rich, the meat cooked slowly with heaps of onion and garlic until it is tender and the duck's own fat glazes the masala, and it is traditionally eaten with chitoi pitha, soft rice-flour pancakes made on a clay mould, or with plain rice. Black pepper, cinnamon and a hint of nutmeg balance the gaminess. The biggest misstep is not rendering the fat, which leaves the sauce greasy and the skin flabby; let the duck fry in its own fat first. Chef's tip: grind a small piece of fresh coconut into the masala at the end if your duck is lean, a trick from Kishoreganj cooks.

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Tunisian chapatiStuffed semolina bread with tuna omelette

Tunisian street chapati has nothing to do with the Indian flatbread: it is a thick, puffy square of semolina bread baked on a griddle, split open while hot and filled with a herby omelette, tuna, melted cheese and a smear of harissa. Snack shops across the country make them to order for students and workers at lunchtime, often with a spoon of mechouia or a few olives added. The bread is soft and slightly chewy with toasty patches, the filling rich and spicy. The dough needs about an hour to rise. Don't cook the chapati over a high flame: the outside chars while the centre stays doughy and won't split for filling. Chef's tip: cook the bread over a medium heat, not high; a very hot pan browns the outside before the inside has puffed and cooked, leaving it doughy.

45 minTunisianFast Food
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Habshi halwaSprouted wheat and milk halwa

Few sweets demand as much patience as habshi halwa, the near-black, glossy, chewy slab that the old halwais of Lahore's Anarkali and Ichhra stir for most of a day in wide brass karahis. Full-cream milk is reduced with sprouted wheat flour (samnak) until the sugars caramelise and the mixture darkens from cream to coffee to deep mahogany, then ghee is worked in until it leaks out shining at the edges. The taste is of toffee, malt and toasted nuts, rich enough that a small square with tea is plenty, and it is a winter gift sent to relatives and given at weddings. Sprouting wheat takes two or three days, so plan ahead, or use the flour sold as samnak in South Asian shops. The mistake that spoils most batches is turning up the heat to save time, which scorches the milk on the base and makes the halwa bitter instead of deeply caramelised. Chef's tip: caramelise a third of the sugar separately to a dark amber before adding it, which gives the colour without hours of extra stirring.

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Hadžijski ćevapBeef and onion stew with vinegar

Named for the hadžije, pilgrims returning from Mecca who were welcomed home with a feast, this Bosnian stew is nothing like grilled ćevapi: cubes of beef are slowly braised with an almost equal weight of onions, garlic, paprika, black pepper and a good splash of vinegar until the onions melt into a sweet-sour gravy. In Sarajevo it is served in a clay pot with mashed potato or rice, and it tastes even better the next day. The usual slip is skimping on onions; they are the sauce. Chef's tip: add the vinegar in two stages, half at the start to tenderise and half at the end for brightness.

120 minBalkanMeatGluten free
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Haft mewaSeven dried fruit compote

Haft mewa is the first thing many Afghan families offer visitors on Nowruz, the spring new year on 21 March, and in Mazar-i-Sharif and Kabul it sits in a big glass bowl on every table set for the holiday. Seven kinds of dried fruit and nuts, typically green and red raisins, apricots, walnuts, almonds, pistachios and senjed (dried oleaster berries), are steeped in water for two days until the fruit swells and releases its sugar into a pale amber syrup, while the nuts soften to a fresh, milky crunch. It is ladled into small bowls with plenty of liquid and eaten with a spoon. Skipping the peeling of the almonds is the most common shortcut, and it leaves bitter, papery skins floating in the syrup. Chef's tip: use cooled boiled water for the soak and keep the bowl in the fridge, which keeps the syrup clear and sweet.

20 minAfghanDessertsVeganGluten free
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Tumuro teaWild thyme tea

Tumuro is the small-leaved wild thyme that grows on the rocky slopes above Hunza and Gilgit, and in late summer families pick and dry bundles of it to brew through the year. The tea is pale gold and intensely aromatic, more resinous and floral than garden thyme, and it is drunk after heavy meals, by anyone with a cold and simply as a warming cup on a mountain evening; cafés in Karimabad serve it to visitors. Boiling it hard for a long time is the misstep that turns it bitter and medicinal. Chef's tip: if you cannot find tumuro, which is sometimes sold in Pakistani grocers and online as Hunza thyme, use dried garden thyme with a few fresh sprigs, steep it gently, and sweeten with a little sugar only if you like.

10 minPakistaniDrinksVeganGluten free
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Haitian bouyonBeef soup with roots and dumplings

Saturday in Haiti means bouyon: a big, thick soup of beef, root vegetables, greens and little flour dumplings, simmered all morning and ladled up at midday as a meal in a bowl. Every family has its own mix of yam, malanga, potato, carrot, plantain and watercress or spinach, with a whole hot pepper for perfume. The common mistake is adding the roots all at once at the start, so the softer ones disintegrate; the dense ones go first. It feeds a crowd and tastes better reheated. Chef's tip: squeeze a little lime into the soup bowl just before eating, as many Haitians do, to brighten the rich broth.

150 minHaitianSoups
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Haitian kasavCrisp cassava flatbread

In Cap-Haïtien and the hill towns of the north, kasav is made from nothing but grated, pressed cassava, toasted on a wide griddle into a flat, pale round that is crisp outside and chewy within. People break it over soup, spread it with peanut butter for breakfast, or buy the sweet version studded with grated coconut and sugar from roadside sellers. At home the key is getting the cassava truly dry: wet pulp steams into a gummy pancake, the most common failure. This recipe uses frozen grated sweet cassava, which is sold ready to use. Chef's tip: rub the dry pulp through a coarse sieve before cooking; the fine, even crumbs bind into a lacier, crisper bread.

90 minHaitianBreads & ParathasVeganGluten free
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Haitian lalo with beefJute leaf and beef stew

In the rice-growing Artibonite valley, lalo means jute leaves, and the stew made from them is the region's pride: chopped leaves cooked down with beef (and often crab) until they turn dark, silky and slightly slippery, like a richer spinach stew, served over white rice. Fresh jute is hard to find abroad, but frozen chopped jute leaves (sold as molokhia in Middle Eastern shops) work very well. The common mistake is adding the leaves too early; they turn bitter and grey if they boil for an hour, so the beef is cooked first. Marinate the beef in the fridge. Chef's tip: a squeeze of sour orange at the table cuts the richness beautifully.

130 minHaitianCurriesGluten free
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Haitian tchaka (vegetarian)Hominy, bean and pumpkin stew

Tchaka is a deeply rural Haitian stew of dried hominy corn, red beans and pumpkin, cooked low and slow until the corn bursts and the beans melt into a thick, sweet-savoury porridge. It is linked with harvest gatherings and Vodou feast days, and the classic pot usually holds smoked pork or pig's feet; this version leaves the meat out and builds depth with epis, smoked paprika and coconut oil instead. Soak the hominy and beans overnight, because skipping the soak is the main reason tchaka stays chalky. Serve it on its own in bowls, with pikliz on the side. Chef's tip: mash a cupful of the pumpkin against the pot wall near the end; it thickens the stew far better than flour.

150 minHaitianCurriesVeganGluten free
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Hakka flat rice noodlesFlat rice noodle soup

Meinong, a Hakka farming town in the hills of Kaohsiung, is famous for its ban tiao: broad, slippery rice noodles steamed fresh each morning and sold in roadside shops for lunch, either swimming in a clear pork broth or stir-fried with chives and bean sprouts. This is the soup version, light and savoury, with tender slices of pork, crunchy sprouts, garlic chives and plenty of shallot oil floating on top; Hakka cooks put a side plate of boiled pork with a salty-sour sauce next to it. Overcooking is the classic error here: fresh ban tiao only needs a dip in boiling water, and it falls apart if left in. Chef's tip: separate the sheets of noodle by hand before cooking; cold noodles straight from the pack stick together in thick clumps.

40 minTaiwanesePasta & Noodles
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Hakka caozai guoHerb rice dumplings with radish

Around Qingming, the spring tomb-sweeping festival, Hakka households across Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli steam trays of these deep-green dumplings to carry to the family graves and share afterwards. The colour and grassy, slightly bitter perfume come from cudweed or mugwort kneaded into glutinous rice dough, and the chewy skin wraps a savoury filling of chopped dried radish and shiitake. The festival version has long been meatless, so this one needs no changes to be vegan. Without a cooked piece of dough kneaded back in, the skin cracks as you shape it; that small step is what makes it supple. Chef's tip: look for frozen mugwort or cudweed purée in Asian grocers; if you can only find fresh mugwort, blanch it with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda to keep it bright green.

120 minTaiwaneseSnacks & StartersVegan
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Hakka pickled mustard greens with pork bellySteamed pork belly with mustard greens

At Hakka weddings, Lunar New Year and other big family meals across Taiwan, this domed bowl of glossy pork belly is turned out onto a plate to applause. Slices of skin-on pork belly are boiled, browned and packed into a bowl over mei gan cai, the dried, fermented mustard greens Hakka families make each winter, then steamed for hours until the fat turns to jelly and the greens soak up the pork juices. It is rich, sweet and salty, and comes with plenty of plain rice and a green vegetable. The most frequent slip is skipping the rinse: dried mustard greens hold sand and a lot of salt, so soak and wash them several times. Chef's tip: slice the browned belly when it is cold; warm pork belly tears, but chilled it cuts into clean 1 cm slices.

180 minTaiwaneseMeat
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Hakka mochiSticky rice with peanut powder

At Hakka weddings, temple festivals and housewarmings in Hsinchu and Miaoli, an aunt stands over a big bowl of warm, glossy rice dough and squeezes it out between thumb and forefinger, dropping each little ball straight into sweet ground peanuts for the guests. The dough is soft, stretchy and barely sweet; the peanut sugar coats it in a fragrant, slightly gritty layer. In Beipu old town it's sold the same way to visitors, with black sesame as a second coating. People often grind the peanuts too long and end up with peanut butter, which clumps instead of dusting. Chef's tip: oil your hands and the bowl lightly before pinching, and eat the mochi the same day, while it's still pillowy.

40 minTaiwaneseDessertsVeganGluten free
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Tula pryanikStamped honey-spice cake

Tula, a few hours south of Moscow, has pressed these slabs in carved wooden boards since the seventeenth century, and a pryanik stamped with the town's crest or a samovar is still the souvenir every visitor carries home. It is made from a cooked dough: honey, sugar and butter are warmed with cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and clove, then flour is beaten in, giving a dense, soft and fragrant cake. A layer of thick plum jam runs through the middle and a thin sugar glaze sets white and crisp on top. Cut it into fingers and serve with black tea. The usual slip is a runny jam that leaks from the seams, so use a stiff jam or cook it down first. Chef's tip: wrap the glazed cake and leave it overnight; it softens and the spice deepens, which is why Tula bakers never sell it warm.

85 minRussianBaking
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Hakka stir-fryPork, squid and tofu stir-fry

Every Hakka restaurant in Miaoli and Hsinchu puts this on the table at banquets and family dinners, a savoury, chewy, salty plate built to be eaten with plenty of plain rice. Strips of pork belly are fried until they give up their fat, then dried squid, pressed tofu, Chinese celery, spring onion and chilli are tossed through with soy until everything is glossy and smoky. The dried squid needs an overnight soak, so plan ahead, or use fresh squid for a softer bite. Many cooks rush the first stage and leave the pork belly pale and fatty: fry it until it is golden and the fat is clear. Chef's tip: cut everything to the same matchstick length, so each mouthful picks up a bit of pork, squid, tofu and celery together.

35 minTaiwaneseMeat
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Tuhum barakEgg and milk dumplings

Tuhum barak is a speciality of Khorezm and the old walled city of Khiva: large square dumplings of thin dough filled not with meat but with liquid, eggs beaten with milk and a little butter, sealed tight and dropped into boiling water so the filling sets into a soft omelette inside. It is served with butter and katyk. Making it takes practice, because the dumplings are filled through a gap and must not leak. A common mistake is overfilling, which bursts the seams in the pot. Chef's tip: seal three sides first, stand the pocket in a cup, pour in the egg, then pinch the last side shut. Pumpkin barak is made the same way with grated pumpkin and onion.

75 minUzbekPasta & Noodles
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Tsebhi asaFish in berbere tomato stew

Massawa's home cooks make tsebhi asa with whatever came in on the boats that morning, often kingfish, grouper or snapper, simmered in a stew that is redder and more tomato-rich than the lake fish wats of Ethiopia. Plenty of fresh tomato and a little tomato paste go into the berbere and onion base, with garlic and a touch of cumin, so the sauce is spicy, tangy and bright. It is scooped up with injera or with the flatbread of the coast, and leftovers are even better the next morning with bread. Chef's tip: cut the fish into large chunks with the skin on where you can; skin helps the pieces hold together in the simmering sauce.

55 minEritreanFishGluten freeSpicy
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Haleeb zanjabeelGinger and cardamom milk

When the short Gulf winter brings chilly evenings to Riyadh, Kuwait and the desert camps, families pour cups of haleeb zanjabeel, hot milk steeped with fresh ginger, cardamom and a few threads of saffron. It is offered to guests in the majlis, given to anyone with a cold, and sipped at breakfast or late at night. It tastes warming and gently spicy, creamy and pale gold. The commonly made mistake is boiling the ginger hard in the milk for too long, which can curdle it and makes it harsh; steep it gently instead. Sweeten with sugar or honey to taste. Chef's tip: simmer the ginger and cardamom in a splash of water first, then add the milk; you get more flavour and less risk of splitting.

15 minGulf ArabianDrinksGluten free
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FogueteFried pastry tubes with pumpkin preserve

Foguete means rocket in Portuguese, and these slim, golden pastry tubes, fried crisp and stuffed with sticky ash-pumpkin preserve, really do look like little fireworks lined up on the Christmas tray of a Portuguese Burgher household. A rich dough of flour, egg, butter and coconut milk is rolled thin, wrapped around metal tubes and fried until blistered, then filled with chopped preserve mixed with cashews, cardamom and rosewater. They shatter when you bite, then give way to a soft, fragrant, honeyed centre, and are eaten with tea through the Christmas week. The trap is frying in oil that is too hot, so the pastry browns before it crisps and goes soft once cool; keep it steady at about 170 °C. Use cannoli tubes, or short lengths of thick, clean wooden dowel. Chef's tip: grease the tubes well and seal each pastry with egg white only along the overlap, never on the tube, or the tubes will be impossible to slide out.

75 minSri LankanBaking
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Falsa sherbetFalsa berry drink

For a few short weeks in May and June, Punjabi fruit sellers from Multan to Lahore pile their carts with falsa, tiny purple-black berries with a big seed and a sweet-sour, grape-like flavour, and roadside stalls crush them in big jugs of iced water with sugar and a pinch of black salt. The sherbet is a striking magenta, tart and salty-sweet, and people swear by it as a cooler against the loo, the scorching summer wind; it is also a favourite at iftar when Ramadan falls in summer. Outside Pakistan look for frozen falsa in South Asian grocers, or use blackcurrants, which give a similar colour and sharpness. A common slip is blending the berries hard, which cracks the seeds and turns the drink bitter. Chef's tip: just rub the berries with the sugar and a little water by hand or pulse very briefly, then strain, so you get all the juice and colour and none of the bitterness.

15 minPakistaniDrinksVeganGluten free
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TsatsaFried sprats

Beach kiosks from Varna to Sozopol sell tsatsa by the paper cone all summer: handfuls of tiny sprats fried so crisp that you eat them head, bones and all, with a squeeze of lemon and a cold glass of ayran. They taste sweet and briny and crunch like the best chips. At home, serve them with lemon wedges, a tomato and cucumber salad and bread. Buy fish that smell of the sea, with bright eyes and firm bodies; frozen sprats work once thawed in the fridge. Where most people go wrong is frying too many at once: the oil cools, the fish stick together and turn greasy. Chef's tip: shake the floured sprats in a sieve before they go in, so only a thin film of flour clings and they fry up lacy and light.

20 minBulgarianFish
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Tsarska turshiyaMixed vegetable pickle

Every autumn Bulgarian balconies fill with jars of turshiya, and the 'royal' one is the prettiest and the most loved: crisp cauliflower florets, carrot rounds, strips of red and green pepper and celery, steeped in a sweet-sour marinade with oil, garlic and peppercorns. It is served with hearty winter stews, with beans and with a glass of something cold at the table in the evening. This version is a fridge pickle, ready in three days and kept chilled, so it needs no sterilising bath. The mistake people make is overcooking the vegetables in the marinade; they should just lose their raw edge and still snap when you bite them. Chef's tip: pack the jars in colour layers, white, orange, red, green, and pour the marinade over while it is hot so the vegetables stay crunchy.

60 minBulgarianChutneys & DipsVeganGluten free
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ZivaCheese and olive pastry

Ziva is a Tel Aviv café and bakery invention built on Yemenite malawach dough: flaky layers wrapped around salty white cheese and olives, baked until golden and served with grated tomato, zhug and a hard-boiled egg. You find it at weekend brunch in Jaffa and in the Yemenite Quarter, eaten with knife and fork. The pastry should shatter into buttery flakes against a soft, salty, melting centre. Feta and Bulgarian-style white cheeses are often made with animal rennet, so choose one labelled vegetarian if that matters to you. The usual mistake is overfilling, which makes the cheese leak and the base soggy. Chef's tip: use frozen ready-made malawach rounds straight from the freezer; they are much easier to fold while still firm.

50 minIsraeliSnacks & Starters
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Halwa puriPuris with semolina halwa and chickpeas

Sunday mornings in Lahore start with a queue: outside the halwa puri shops of Gawalmandi and Lakshmi Chowk, families wait with steel tiffins to carry home stacks of puffed puris, a tray of orange semolina halwa and a pot of sour, peppery chickpeas. The joy of the plate is the contrast, a hot, crisp-chewy puri torn and used to scoop both the sweet, cardamom-scented halwa and the spicy chana, with mango pickle and onion on the side and a cup of strong tea or lassi to finish. It is heavy, celebratory food, made for weekends, Eid mornings and guests. Doing it at home is a matter of order: cook the chana first, then the halwa, and fry the puris last so they reach the table puffed. Where many go wrong is rolling the puris too thin or frying in oil that is not hot enough, so they lie flat and soak up grease. Chef's tip: knead the puri dough stiff, with a spoon of semolina in it, and it will puff and stay crisp much longer.

75 minPakistaniBreakfast & Brunch
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HamantaschenFilled triangle cookies

In Israel these are called oznei Haman, 'Haman's ears', and in the weeks before Purim every bakery from Tel Aviv to Be'er Sheva fills its windows with them, while families bake trays at home to pack into mishloach manot gift baskets. A short, lightly orange-scented dough is folded into a three-cornered pocket around a filling of poppy seeds cooked with milk and honey, or a quick date paste. They should be crisp at the edges and tender in the middle. The common mistake is rolling the dough too thin or overfilling, which makes the corners spring open in the oven. Chef's tip: chill the shaped cookies for 15 minutes before baking so the corners keep their sharp pinch.

55 minIsraeliBaking
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ForshmakChopped herring pâté

Forshmak came to Odesa with its Jewish community and became a citywide favourite, spread on toast at family celebrations, in Moldavanka courtyards and on restaurant zakuska boards. Salted herring is chopped with tart apple, hard-boiled egg, onion and bread soaked in milk, then whipped with soft butter into a pale, creamy pâté that is salty, sweet and gently sharp all at once. Serve it on toasted rye or white bread with spring onion. Herring for forshmak is cured but not cooked, so buy ready-salted fillets from a good fishmonger, commercially prepared or previously frozen, keep everything cold and eat within 2 days; it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Blitzing it to a smooth paste is the usual error; Odesa cooks like a little texture. Chef's tip: grate the apple at the last moment and add a squeeze of lemon, so it stays white and fresh.

30 minUkrainianSnacks & Starters
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Hamour mashwiGrilled grouper

Along the Corniche in Dammam and in the fish markets of Qatif on Saudi Arabia's Gulf coast, hamour is the fish everyone asks for, and on weekend evenings families grill it over charcoal on the beach. The thick white fillets are rubbed with turmeric, garlic, ground dried lime and red chilli, which gives a sour, smoky edge to the sweet, flaky flesh. Serve it with mashkool rice, a lemony salad and daqqus. The common mistake is turning the fish too early, before the crust has set, so it sticks and tears. Chef's tip: oil the fish, not the grill, and leave it alone until it lifts away by itself.

30 minGulf ArabianFishGluten free
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ŽinčicaSoured whey drink

Hikers walking past a salaš, a Slovak shepherds' hut, are often offered a mug of žinčica, the cool, sour whey left over from making bryndza and hrudka cheese. Shepherds heat the whey until fine flakes of cheese float up, then leave it to sour, and drink it with boiled potatoes or on its own on a hot afternoon. It is thin, refreshing and tangy, a little like a light buttermilk. At the salaš it is often made from raw sheep's milk, so at home make it only from the whey of cheese made with pasteurised milk (the korbáčiky recipe gives you plenty) and vegetarian rennet. The common slip is leaving it to sour somewhere warm for too long, where it turns cheesy and harsh; a cool room and 12 hours is enough. Chef's tip: a spoonful of cultured buttermilk gives a clean, reliable sourness every time.

15 minCzechDrinksGluten free
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