Featured recipe

Racuchy z jabłkami

Apple fritters

Autumn in the orchard villages around Łącko and Nowy Sącz means apples everywhere, and racuchy are how grandmothers use the windfalls on a Sunday afternoon. A thick yeast batter is folded with thin apple slices and spooned into hot oil, where it puffs into golden, airy fritters with soft, tart fruit inside. Shower them with icing sugar and eat them warm, perhaps with a glass of cold milk or kefir. Where most people go wrong is frying too hot: the outside darkens before the thick middle cooks, leaving a raw, gummy centre. Chef's tip: keep the oil at a steady medium, about 170 °C, and flatten each spoonful slightly so it cooks through evenly.

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60 min

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Lunchtime in the old town of Hội An means cơm gà: small eateries near the river pile plates high with yellow rice and shredded chicken from late morning until it runs out. The rice is fried with garlic and chicken fat, coloured with turmeric and cooked in the poaching stock, so every grain tastes of chicken. On top goes chicken pulled into strips and tossed with sliced onion, Vietnamese coriander, lime and pepper, plus a spoon of chilli sauce and a little pickled papaya. A small bowl of the clear broth comes alongside. Chef's tip: plunge the poached chicken into iced water for 5 minutes; it stops the cooking and keeps the meat juicy and the skin firm.

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Restaurants all over Hội An serve 'white rose' dumplings as a starter, and much of the town's supply is said to come from a single family workshop that has made them for decades. The wrapper is a thin, glassy rice-flour dough, pinched up around a pounded prawn filling so that each dumpling looks like an open flower, and the plate is finished with crisp fried shallots and a light, sweet chilli-fish-sauce dip. They are delicate and fiddly, but shaping becomes quick after the first dozen. This home version adds a little pork to the prawn for juiciness. Chef's tip: keep the dough under a damp cloth the whole time; even a few minutes in the air makes it crack when you pinch it.

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