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Pepper, beans and fruit salad

A big, bright salad of red, green and yellow peppers, boiled peanuts, sweet corn, grapes, apple and coconut, tossed in a sweet-sour passion fruit and mint dressing. It is very popular at big parties: it looks festive, keeps its crunch and is easy to double. Serve it on a bed of crisp lettuce.

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Heart of palm coxinhaHeart of palm croquettes

Coxinha is the king of Brazilian salgados, sold in every padaria and served at every birthday party, especially in São Paulo. The teardrop shape copies a chicken thigh, but coxinha de palmito, filled with soft heart of palm, tomato and creamy cheese, is a much-loved meat-free version. The dough is a cooked, savoury choux-like paste, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried until shatteringly crisp. Chef's tip: cook the dough until it comes away from the pan in one smooth ball, then knead it while still warm with oiled hands. Lumpy or under-cooked dough cracks in the fryer and lets the filling leak.

120 min

Brazilian Snacks & Starters

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Limonada suíçaCreamy lime drink

Limonada suíça is the creamy, frothy limeade served in juice bars and lunch counters all over Brazil. Despite the name ('Swiss lemonade'), nobody knows of any Swiss link, and it's made with whole Tahiti limes, blended briefly, skin and all, then strained and sweetened with condensed milk. It's cold, zingy and pale green, perfect with a hot lunch. Chef's tip: blend for no more than 10–15 seconds. Lime peel gives the drink its wonderful perfume, but blended too long it releases bitterness from the pith; serve it straight away for the same reason.

5 min

Brazilian Drinks

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Ital stewPumpkin and sweet potato stew

Ital food is the cooking of the Rastafari, found from the hills of St Andrew to roadside Ital shops in Westmoreland and St Thomas. It is plant-based, close to the earth and traditionally made without added salt, built on fresh 'food' (ground provisions) and greens. This stew is golden and gently sweet, thickened by melting pumpkin and silky okra, with coconut milk, thyme and pimento giving warmth and a whole scotch bonnet giving fruity heat. Serve with rice and peas or boiled green bananas. Chef's tip: cut half the pumpkin very small and the other half in big chunks. The small pieces collapse into the coconut milk and thicken it naturally, while the big ones hold their shape.

45 min

Jamaican Curries

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Pão de queijoCheese bread puffs

Pão de queijo comes from Minas Gerais, where every café and grandmother's kitchen has a tray in the oven for breakfast or afternoon coffee. Made with cassava starch (polvilho) instead of wheat flour, the little rolls are crisp and golden outside and stretchy, cheesy and almost hollow inside. Mineiros use queijo minas meia-cura; a mix of Parmesan-style cheese and mozzarella is the closest match elsewhere. Chef's tip: pour the boiling milk and oil over the starch (escaldar). Scalding cooks part of the starch, and that's what gives the chewy, elastic inside; and use some sour starch (polvilho azedo), which makes them puff up tall.

45 min

Brazilian Baking

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KurmaSweet fried dough sticks

Kurma is a crunchy Indo-Trinidadian sweet made for Divali, weddings and pujas, and sold in bags at roadside parlours in Central Trinidad. A rich dough flavoured with ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg is cut into thin sticks, fried until hard and golden, then tossed in a hot ginger sugar syrup until it dries into a frosty white coating. It keeps for weeks in a tin. Chef's tip: keep stirring the kurma in the syrup off the heat until the sugar suddenly turns opaque and sandy. That moment is the whole trick; stop too early and the coating stays sticky, and the 'frost' is what makes kurma kurma.

60 min

Trinidadian Desserts

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Jamaican callalooSteamed callaloo greens

In Jamaica, callaloo means the leaves and tender stems of a type of amaranth, sold in big bundles in every market from Coronation Market in Kingston to Santa Cruz in St Elizabeth. It's steamed down with onion, tomato, garlic and thyme into soft, savoury greens with a mild mineral sweetness, and eaten at breakfast with fried dumplings, boiled green bananas or hard dough bread, or as a side at dinner. Spinach or Swiss chard can stand in if you can't find callaloo. Chef's tip: peel the fibrous skin from the thicker stems with a small knife and slice the stems and leaves finely across, about 1 cm wide. That's how Jamaican cooks get callaloo that's tender all the way through rather than stringy.

20 min

Jamaican Sides

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Pudim de leite condensadoCondensed milk flan

Pudim de leite condensado is the dessert of Brazilian Sunday lunch, served in every home and por-quilo restaurant from north to south. It's richer and denser than a French crème caramel: condensed milk, milk and eggs baked in a water bath in a ring tin, then turned out under a glossy layer of dark caramel. Chef's tip: bake it gently in a water bath and keep the water just below a simmer. Too much heat makes the bubbles that leave the pudim full of little holes; Brazilians prize a smooth, silky pudim lisinho.

75 min

Brazilian Desserts

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QuindimCoconut egg yolk custards

Quindim is a jewel of Bahian sweets: small, shiny, intensely yellow custards made from egg yolks, sugar and grated coconut. It goes back to Portugal's convent sweets, rich in yolks, which cooks in colonial Bahia combined with the coconut of the Brazilian coast. When baked, the coconut sinks to form a chewy base and the yolks set into a silky, translucent top that becomes the shining crown when unmoulded. Chef's tip: strain the yolks so there are no traces of white or the chalazae (the stringy bits). Egg white makes quindim pale and rubbery instead of glossy, deep gold and smooth.

60 min

Brazilian Desserts

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Pholourie with tamarind chutneySplit pea fritters with tamarind chutney

Pholourie are little round fritters sold by the bag at doubles stands, school gates and parties all over Trinidad, especially through Divali and Christmas. A turmeric-yellow batter made with ground split peas and flour is dropped by the spoonful into hot oil, where it puffs into crisp-skinned, soft, spongy balls. They're always served with a sticky tamarind chutney spiked with garlic, shado beni and pepper. Unlike Indian pakoras, there are no vegetables in the batter: pholourie is all about the soft, light dough and the dip. Chef's tip: beat the batter hard for a few minutes until it's thick, smooth and falls off the spoon in a sticky blob. Well-beaten batter traps air, so the pholourie puff up round and light instead of flat and greasy.

40 min

Trinidadian Snacks & Starters

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Sorrel drinkHibiscus drink

Sorrel is the drink of a Jamaican Christmas: in December the markets fill with the red flowers (the calyces of a hibiscus), and every home brews a big batch to share. They're steeped with lots of fresh ginger, pimento and cloves, then sweetened, giving a deep ruby drink that's tart, spicy and refreshing over ice. Many families add a splash of white or dark rum for the adults. Chef's tip: be generous with the ginger and let it steep overnight. A long, cool steep pulls out the colour and a fiery ginger bite without the bitterness of over-boiling.

30 min

Jamaican Drinks

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Mushroom and cassava escondidinhoMushroom and cassava bake

Escondidinho ('little hidden one') is a homely baked dish from the Northeast: a savoury filling hidden under a layer of creamy mashed cassava (mandioca or aipim), topped with cheese and baked until golden. The classic is made with carne de sol, the Northeast's sun-dried beef; this vegetarian escondidinho uses mushrooms browned hard with onion, tomato and smoked paprika for the same savoury depth. Serve it with a green salad or couve à mineira. Chef's tip: mash the cassava while it's piping hot and remove the woody core first. Cold cassava turns gluey, and the stringy core spoils the silky texture.

75 min

Brazilian Vegetarian

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Palm heart and plantain moquecaPalm heart and plantain coconut stew

Moqueca is the great stew of Bahia, cooked in a clay pot with coconut milk, tomatoes, peppers and dendê, the red palm oil that gives Salvador's food its colour and flavour. Fish is usual on the coast, but moqueca de palmito e banana-da-terra, with heart of palm and ripe plantain, is a much-loved vegetarian version: sweet, tangy and fragrant with coriander and lime. Serve with white rice and farofa. Chef's tip: layer the vegetables rather than frying them, and add half the dendê at the start and half at the very end. The final splash keeps its fruity, nutty aroma, which is the real taste of Bahia.

40 min

Brazilian Curries

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OkonomiyakiSavoury cabbage pancake

Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き, 'grilled as you like it') is the pride of Osaka, where it's cooked on hot iron griddles in lively restaurants. Finely shredded cabbage is folded into a light batter with egg and spring onion, then fried into a thick, soft pancake with a crisp outside. It's painted with a fruity brown sauce and zigzagged with mayonnaise. Bonito flakes are usual on top; this vegetarian version uses seaweed flakes and pickled ginger instead. Chef's tip: don't press the pancake down with your spatula while it cooks. Osaka cooks leave it alone so the cabbage steams inside and stays light and fluffy; pressing squeezes out the air.

35 min

Japanese Snacks & Starters

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KimchijeonKimchi pancakes

Kimchijeon (김치전) is a thin, crisp pancake made by stirring chopped sour kimchi and its juice into a simple flour batter. Cooks all over Korea make it to use up kimchi that has fermented a little too far, and it is a favourite rainy-day snack with a glass of makgeolli. The kimchi juice colours the batter red and seasons it, so you need little else. This version is egg-free; a spoonful of starch in the batter makes the edges extra crunchy. Use vegetarian kimchi made without fish sauce or shrimp. Chef's tip: be generous with oil and keep the pancake thin. The crisp, almost lacy edge is the best part, and a thick pancake steams instead of frying.

20 min

Korean Snacks & Starters

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Hobak jeonPan-fried courgette rounds

Hobak jeon (호박전) are slices of Korean courgette dusted in flour, dipped in beaten egg and pan-fried until golden. They are one of the jeon that families all over Korea make for holiday tables, and they also make an easy side dish for an everyday meal. The courgette turns sweet and tender inside its soft egg coating. Korean aehobak is paler and sweeter than a regular courgette, but either works. Serve warm or at room temperature with a soy dipping sauce. Chef's tip: keep the heat gentle. Good hobak jeon is bright yellow with only light golden spots; a hot pan browns the egg before the courgette is tender.

20 min

Korean Snacks & Starters

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Hiyashi chukaChilled ramen noodles with toppings

Hiyashi chuka (冷やし中華) is Japan's summer noodle dish: shops all over the country hang up a 'hiyashi chuka hajimemashita' (we've started serving it) sign when the hot weather arrives. Cold, springy ramen noodles are topped with neat strips of thin omelette, cucumber, tomato and other vegetables, then dressed with a tangy soy, vinegar and sesame sauce. This vegetarian version uses sweetcorn and seasoned tofu in place of the usual ham. Fresh, light and ready in under half an hour. Chef's tip: rinse the noodles until they squeak and are truly cold, then shake them dry; any warmth or water left on them makes the dressing taste flat.

25 min

Japanese Pasta & Noodles

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Matcha mochiGreen tea rice cakes

Mochi (もち) are soft, chewy rice cakes made from glutinous rice flour, and Kyoto's confectioners have long flavoured them with matcha from nearby Uji. This quick home version cooks the dough in the microwave rather than pounding steamed rice. Each little green ball is wrapped around a centre of sweet red bean paste and dusted with cornflour. They are best eaten the day they are made, while still soft. Chef's tip: work while the dough is still warm, and keep your hands and the tray well dusted with starch. Warm mochi stretches easily around the filling; once it cools it tears and won't seal.

26 min

Japanese Desserts

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OmuriceOmelette-wrapped fried rice

Omurice (オムライス) is a yōshoku dish, Western-style Japanese food, said to have been invented at a Tokyo restaurant around 1900. Tangy ketchup fried rice is wrapped in a thin, soft omelette and topped with more ketchup. Chicken is usual inside; this vegetarian version uses mushrooms, sweetcorn, peas and onion. A favourite with children, and on the table in half an hour. Chef's tip: pull the pan off the heat while the top of the omelette is still a little runny; it finishes cooking from the heat of the rice, and stays soft and silky as in a Tokyo yōshoku diner.

30 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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Sigeumchi namulSeasoned spinach

Sigeumchi namul (시금치나물) is a quick side dish of blanched spinach dressed with garlic, a little soy sauce and plenty of toasted sesame. It is one of the banchan found on tables all over Korea, and it is also one of the toppings in bibimbap. The spinach is blanched for just a few seconds so it stays bright green, then squeezed dry so it takes on the dressing. Serve at room temperature with rice and other banchan. Chef's tip: squeeze the spinach really hard before seasoning. Any water left in it dilutes the sesame dressing and makes the namul taste watery.

10 min

Korean Sides

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HotteokFilled sweet fried pancakes

Hotteok (호떡) are chewy, yeasted pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon that melt into a hot syrup as they fry. They are a winter street snack all over Korea, but Busan is known for ssiat hotteok (씨앗호떡), where the fried pancake is slit open and stuffed with a handful of toasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Glutinous rice flour in the dough makes it soft and stretchy. Be careful with the first bite, as the filling is very hot. This dough uses milk, so it is vegetarian; use water instead for a dairy-free version. Chef's tip: rest the dough until it has properly doubled and is full of bubbles, and keep your hands oiled. A sticky, well-risen dough gives the chewy, stretchy texture.

60 min

Korean Desserts

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JapchaeGlass noodles with vegetables

Japchae (잡채) is a dish of chewy, translucent sweet potato starch noodles tossed with spinach, mushrooms and brightly coloured vegetables in a sweet soy and sesame dressing. It is made all over Korea for birthdays, holidays and big family meals, because it can be prepared ahead and is eaten warm or at room temperature. Each vegetable is cooked quickly on its own, then everything is mixed by hand so the noodles soak up the seasoning. Older recipes include beef; this one uses shiitake for the savoury depth. Chef's tip: dress the noodles while they are still hot and keep each vegetable crisp. Overcooked noodles clump and turn gluey, so pull them as soon as they are clear and chewy.

40 min

Korean Pasta & Noodles

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Gyeran mariRolled omelette

Gyeran mari (계란말이) is a Korean rolled omelette: beaten egg with finely chopped vegetables, cooked in thin layers and rolled up in the pan, then cut into thick slices that show a neat spiral. It is a much-loved side dish and lunchbox favourite nationwide, and children enjoy it with a little ketchup. The trick is a low heat, so the egg stays soft and yellow rather than brown. Serve warm or at room temperature with rice. Chef's tip: roll while the top of each layer is still slightly wet. The runny egg is the glue, and it keeps the roll soft and in one piece.

15 min

Korean Sides

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Hiroshima okonomiyakiLayered cabbage and noodle pancake

Hiroshima okonomiyaki (広島風お好み焼き) is built in layers rather than mixed: a thin crêpe, a tall heap of cabbage and bean sprouts, a layer of fried noodles and a fried egg, all pressed together on the griddle. It's the city's signature dish, and Hiroshima has hundreds of small okonomiyaki counters. Pork belly is the usual layer; this vegetarian version leaves it out and adds mushrooms. Take your time with the layering; it's worth it. Chef's tip: shred the cabbage as finely as you can and pile it high; it looks far too much, but it steams down by half under the crêpe, and that sweet, soft cabbage is the heart of the Hiroshima style.

40 min

Japanese Snacks & Starters

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GyeranppangSweet egg bread

Gyeranppang (계란빵), or egg bread, is a winter street snack from Seoul: a small, sweet and fluffy bun with a whole egg baked right on top. Vendors bake them in special oval moulds, but a muffin tin works well at home. The soft, slightly sweet batter and the savoury egg are a lovely mix, making it a popular breakfast on the go. Bake until the white is just set if you like the yolk soft, or a few minutes longer for a firm yolk. Chef's tip: fill the moulds only a third full, so the egg sits in the batter as it rises rather than sliding off the side.

30 min

Korean Breakfast & Brunch

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Horenso goma-aeSpinach with sesame dressing

Horenso no goma-ae (ほうれん草の胡麻和え) is one of the most common side dishes in Japanese home cooking and bento boxes. Spinach is blanched for a few seconds, squeezed dry and tossed in a nutty dressing of freshly toasted, crushed sesame seeds with soy and a little sugar. Toasting and grinding the seeds yourself makes all the difference. Serve as one of several small dishes with rice and miso soup. Chef's tip: toast and grind the sesame yourself just before mixing. Ready-ground sesame tastes flat; freshly ground seeds smell like roasted nuts and give the dish its rich flavour.

10 min

Japanese Sides

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Goya champuruBitter melon stir-fry

Goya champuru (ゴーヤーチャンプルー) is the best-known dish of Okinawa, Japan's southern islands, where bitter melon (goya) grows on vines in summer. Champuru means 'mixed up' in the Okinawan language: slices of goya are stir-fried with firm tofu and egg, and the bitterness is balanced by soy and the richness of the egg. Pork or Spam is usual; this vegetarian version relies on well-browned tofu. Serve with rice. Chef's tip: scrape out every bit of the white pith from inside the goya. That's where most of the harsh bitterness lives, so a clean scrape gives you the pleasant, refreshing bitterness Okinawans love.

20 min

Japanese Vegetarian

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KkakdugiCubed radish kimchi

Kkakdugi (깍두기) is kimchi made from chunky cubes of Korean radish instead of cabbage. It is quicker to make than cabbage kimchi and stays crunchy and juicy, with a sweet, peppery bite. Made all over Korea, it is the classic partner to rich soups and noodles. Traditional versions are seasoned with fish sauce and salted shrimp; here soy sauce and a little grated pear give the same savoury-sweet depth, keeping it vegan. Ready to eat after a day or two of fermenting. Chef's tip: rub in the chilli flakes on their own first, before the wet seasonings. The red then clings to every cube, and the radish keeps its crunch.

40 min

Korean Basics

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