Thin saffron sugar candy
Poulaki are the paper-thin golden sugar coins sold by weight in Isfahan's sweet shops, meant to be held between the teeth while you sip strong black tea. The name comes from 'poul', the old word for coin, and Isfahanis serve them with tea to guests at any hour, flavoured with saffron, cardamom or sesame. Only sugar, a little vinegar and spice are needed, but timing matters. A common mistake is pouring the drops too big: they should spread no wider than 4 cm or they stay chewy in the middle. Chef's tip: work on a cold, lightly oiled marble or steel tray, which sets the coins in seconds and keeps them glassy.
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A chunky Mediterranean salsa of chopped black olives, tomato, pepper and spring onions with chives, basil, garlic, red wine vinegar and olive oil. Serve it cold or at room temperature with corn chips or toasted bread.
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A light, sweet-and-savoury dip of sour cream folded with whipped cream and coarsely ground almonds. It's rich and nutty with a soft, airy texture. Chill it well and serve with crackers, fruit or crisp vegetable sticks.
A 'royal' chutney of fresh and dried red chillies with toasted urad dal, cumin, coriander and sesame seeds, curry leaves and fresh coriander, ground smooth with tangy tamarind juice. It's hot, sour and nutty, with a little sweetness. Serve a spoonful with idli, dhosa, farsan and rice dishes.
A rich, cooked red chilli chutney: chillies soaked overnight with jaggery, sugar and lemon, blended with toasted cumin, coriander and urad dal, then simmered and finished with cashews, peanuts and powdered curry leaves. It's sweet, hot and crunchy. Serve it with puri, paratha or thepla.
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A dry, coarse chutney powder of ground cumin, chilli, salt and asafoetida, with a few drops of lemon and oil and some fresh coriander, air-dried for a few days. Sprinkle a pinch over khichdi, dahi, chaat, bhel or buttered toast. Kept airtight, it lasts for weeks.
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