Bean and squash stew with spaghetti
When the Andes turn white above Santiago, lunch counters in the Mercado Central and home kitchens all over the Central Valley put on a pot of porotos con riendas, dried beans stewed with squash until thick and orange, with broken spaghetti, the 'reins', stirred through at the end. It is served in deep plates with a spoonful of pebre or a tomato salad alongside. Many cooks add longaniza sausage; this version keeps it meat-free and relies on smoky paprika and slow-cooked onion. Adding the pasta too early is the common mistake: it swells, goes soft and drinks all the liquid. Chef's tip: grate a third of the squash so it melts into the beans and thickens the stew, and dice the rest so you still get chunks.
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