Smoked jalapenos in adobo sauce
Chipotles are ripe jalapeños smoked slowly over wood until leathery; in Puebla and Veracruz the reddish, plump mora type is the everyday one, and the tan, leathery meco is prized for its deeper smoke. Simmered in a sweet-sour adobo of tomato, onion, garlic, vinegar and piloncillo, they become the soft, glossy chillies that go into tinga poblana, albóndigas en chipotle, bean soups and a quick chipotle mayonnaise. Homemade, they are smokier and less sugary than the tinned kind, with sauce that is brick red, tangy and thick enough to coat a spoon. Common mistake: toasting the dried chillies too long; a few seconds a side is enough, because scorched chillies make the whole jar bitter. This is a low-acid chilli preserve, so it is kept in the fridge or freezer, never canned in a water bath. It is ready when the chipotles are plump and soft enough to crush with a spoon and the adobo has reduced to a glossy sauce. Chef's tip: blend one or two chillies with their sauce and freeze it in an ice-cube tray, so you can add a single cube to a pot.
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The classic coconut chutney for idli and dhosa: fresh coconut ground with soaked urad and chana dal, yogurt and chilli, then finished with a sizzling tempering of curry leaves and asafoetida. The lentils give it body and a nutty taste. Serve it with idli, dhosa, uttapam and medu vada.
A thick, fresh chutney of grated coconut and raw mango blended with coconut water, chilli and coriander. With no yogurt it's dairy free and keeps its fresh coconut taste. It's served in East Africa with lentil fritters (bhajia), Zanzibar mix and Mombasa mix.
A savoury yogurt raita full of finely chopped carrot, tomato, pepper, onion and green chilli, seasoned with chilli, cumin, black pepper and a dash of vinegar. It's cool, crunchy and lightly spiced. Serve it with rice dishes and biryani.
A thick, creamy garlic dip of sour cream and eggless mayonnaise with garlic paste, red pepper and dried parsley. Leaving it overnight lets the garlic flavour develop fully. Serve it with vegetable sticks, chips, crackers or potato wedges.
A cool, smooth dip of fresh yogurt blended with spring onions, cucumber, green chilli, garlic and roasted cumin. It's light and refreshing, and is just right with barbecued paneer, vegetable skewers and corn. Serve it well chilled.
A big, bright salad of red, green and yellow peppers, boiled peanuts, sweet corn, grapes, apple and coconut, tossed in a sweet-sour passion fruit and mint dressing. It is very popular at big parties: it looks festive, keeps its crunch and is easy to double. Serve it on a bed of crisp lettuce.
Carrots, turnips, three colours of pepper, cucumber, onion and tomato cut into fine matchsticks and spiced with chilli, lemon and coriander. A sizzling dressing of hot oil with cumin, mustard and sesame seeds is poured over at the table. It is crunchy and bright, and should be eaten as soon as it's dressed.
A smooth, glossy red chilli sauce of salted fresh red chillies blended with tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic and jaggery. Salting the chillies overnight softens them and takes off some of the rawness. It keeps for weeks in a glass jar in the fridge and goes with spring rolls, samosas and noodles.
Soft baked aubergine scooped from its skin and blended with tahini dip, lemon, garlic, green chilli, basil and mint. It's creamy and smoky, a little like baba ganoush. Serve it with hot pitta bread.
A hot, garlicky chutney of tomatoes cooked down with garlic paste, red chilli and cumin, then mashed until coarse. It's served alongside pav bhaji for extra heat, and is also good with vada pav, dabeli and toasted sandwiches.
The everyday Gujarati green chutney: fresh coriander, hot green chillies, raw mango and green pepper blended coarsely with fafadia gathia, which thickens it and stops it going watery. It's hot, tangy and a little sweet. Serve it with dhokla, khandvi, sandwiches and all kinds of farsan.
A very hot, deep-red paste of garlic, red chilli powder and roasted cumin with lemon juice and a little jaggery. Just a little adds a punch to bhel, sev puri, dabeli, vada pav and sandwiches. It keeps for a couple of weeks in a jar in the fridge.
Soft bulgar wheat topped with fennel wedges roasted with orange peel and juice until sweet and charred, then tossed with cherry tomatoes, olives, parsley and mint. It is fresh and filling, good as a light main course or alongside grilled vegetables and paneer. Serve it warm or at room temperature.
A fresh, crunchy salad of home-sprouted mung beans with juicy pineapple, coconut, cucumber and cherry tomatoes, dressed with orange juice, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. It is light, sweet and tangy, full of protein, and makes a healthy lunch on its own. Chill everything well, and add the lettuce at the last minute so it stays crisp.
A simple, tangy dip made with thick home-made cottage cheese (hung yogurt) or ready-made sour cream, seasoned with garlic, chilli, black pepper and vinegar. Serve it cold with crisps, nachos and jacket potatoes. The book's other dips use this as their 'sour cream'.
A crunchy Indian-style salad of finely shredded cabbage, fresh coconut, fried red peanuts and cashews, with plenty of chilli. The lemon dressing is tempered: mustard seeds are popped in hot oil first, which gives it a lovely nutty flavour. Serve it as a side with dal and rice, or with any Gujarati meal.
Crisp-tender snow peas, baby carrots and baby corn are boiled briefly, then mixed with quickly stir-fried courgettes, peppers and spring onions. Everything is tossed in a zingy dressing of chives, parsley, coriander, lemon and plenty of garlic. It is a warm salad that makes a light meal on its own.
A crunchy salad of red, yellow and green peppers with roasted peanuts, cucumber, carrots and celery, dressed with lemon, dill, mint and celery leaves. Just before serving, olive oil mixed with sesame seeds is poured over the top. It's colourful, filling and full of protein.
A thick, creamy mint chutney made with hung-yogurt cottage cheese, so it clings to grilled food without running. It's fresh with mint and coriander and gently spicy. Serve it with barbecued paneer and vegetable skewers, tikka, kebabs and corn on the cob.
Crisp samosa-pastry cones stuffed with paneer, spring onion, coconut, aniseed and green chilli, dipped in batter and rolled in sesame breadcrumbs before frying. They look impressive on a party platter. Serve with red, green and tamarind chutneys.
A layered party dip: creamy cream cheese and feta sandwiching a bright green basil, spinach and parmesan pesto and a layer of sundried tomato paste. It's set in a lined bowl, then turned out so the layers show. Serve it with pieces of bread or crackers.
Short pieces of spaghetti in a peppery batter, fried in small balls until golden and crunchy. Kids love them. Serve hot with the quick tomato-chilli sauce.
A quick, bright green broccoli soup blended with garlic and basil, with yogurt for a gentle tang. Cook it just until hot: boiling it hard would split the yogurt. Serve hot with toast.
A bright green soup of peas and lentils, thickened with a buttery curry roux and finished with mint and cream. Thin spaghetti makes it filling, and crisp three-cheese toast on the side turns it into a proper meal.
A smooth, velvety carrot soup blended with potato for body and finished with butter-fried coriander and a splash of milk. It's mild and warming, so it suits the whole family. Serve it with crusty bread or croutons.
A guacamole-style dip of ripe avocado mashed with tomato, onion, green chillies, coriander, a little sour cream, Tabasco and lemon. Make it smooth or chunky, as you like. Chill it and serve with nacho triangles.
A thin, tangy dip of soy sauce and white vinegar with vegetable and sesame oils, toasted sesame seeds, chilli and garlic. Serve it with spring rolls, chilled or warmed. It's also a great dressing for coleslaw: toss and chill for up to 3 days, and add shelled sunflower seeds before serving.
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