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Asadillo manchego
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Asadillo manchego

Roasted pepper and tomato salad

Late summer in La Mancha brings a glut of fleshy red peppers, and around Ciudad Real and Albacete they are roasted with tomatoes, then torn into strips and dressed with garlic, cumin and the local olive oil. Asadillo is served at room temperature as a starter, beside grilled meat or simply with bread at an evening meal on the patio, and it tastes even better the next day. Chef's tip: let the peppers sweat under a cloth after roasting; the skins then slip off in one piece.

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Aam ki launjiSweet and sour raw mango relish

In Rajasthan and across the Hindi belt, launji is the quick mango relish made the day the first raw mangoes come home in April, and it keeps appearing on the thali all through the scorching summer. Unlike the long-cured achaars, it is cooked in 20 minutes: mango pieces in mustard oil with saunf, kalonji, methi and cumin, then simmered with jaggery until glossy. The pieces stay soft but hold their shape in a thick, amber syrup that is sweet first, then sour, with a warm hum of chilli and a liquorice note from the fennel. Eat it with dal-baati, puri, paratha or plain khichdi; in the heat it is believed to cool the body. The common mistake is adding the jaggery too early, so it caramelises and turns bitter before the mango is tender; cook the mango first, then the jaggery. It is ready when the syrup coats the back of a spoon and the mango looks translucent at the edges. It thickens as it cools. Store in a clean jar in the fridge and eat within a week to 10 days. Chef's tip: leave a little peel on some pieces; it gives a pleasant chew and stops the mango from turning to mush.

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Tacos de guisado (picadillo and rajas con crema)

From about nine in the morning, guisado stalls set up on corners near offices and markets all over Mexico City, from the famous counters on Calle Ámsterdam in the Condesa to the stands outside the Mercado de Medellín. Clay pots line the counter, each with a different home-style stew: chicharrón in salsa verde, potato with chorizo, mole and many more. You point, and they spoon it into two warm tortillas. This home version makes two of the favourites, a tomatoey beef picadillo with potato and carrot, and smoky poblano strips with corn in cream. Chef's tip: always double the tortillas, as the stalls do; one tortilla tears under a juicy stew.

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Children across Japan know this golden, chunky salad from their bento boxes and school lunches: steamed kabocha squash crushed with mayonnaise, a few plump raisins and a touch of pepper, sweet enough to pass for dessert. It holds its shape cold, so it fills a bento cup neatly. The common mistake is mashing the squash while it is wet, which gives a watery salad; dry it off in the pan first. Leave some skin on for colour. The mayonnaise contains egg. Chef's tip: dress the squash while it is still warm with the salt and pepper, but add the mayonnaise only once it has cooled, so it stays creamy instead of turning oily.

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Ciulama is a white, velvety sauce stew from Moldova and Muntenia, and the mushroom version is cooked in autumn when wild mushrooms come down from the Carpathians, or any time with cultivated ones. Mushrooms are sautéed with onion, then simmered in a light roux of butter, flour and milk until thick and creamy, and finished with dill and garlic. It is served with a mound of hot mămăligă (cornmeal mash) and sometimes a spoon of sour cream. The usual mistake is adding the milk to a cold, raw roux, which leaves the sauce lumpy and floury. Chef's tip: let the mushrooms brown before the flour goes in; golden mushrooms give a much deeper flavour than pale, steamed ones.

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Esfiha de carne (São Paulo open beef pies)

The Syrian and Lebanese families who settled around Rua 25 de Março in central São Paulo brought sfiha with them, and the city made it its own: esfihas are now sold by the dozen from counters all over town, eaten standing up with a squeeze of lemon at lunchtime or as a cheap late snack. The dough is soft and lightly crisp at the base, and the topping of raw spiced beef, onion and tomato cooks on the pie in a hot oven. Chef's tip: squeeze the onion and tomato hard in a cloth before mixing; a wet topping makes the dough soggy.

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Queijadinha (Bahian coconut and cheese cakes)

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Masato de arroz (Bogotá spiced rice drink)

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Ask any Italian nonna what a baby has for merenda, the mid-afternoon snack, and she will mime grating an apple: in homes from Turin to Bari, a sweet apple is grated very finely on the small holes of a grater and spooned up at once, before it turns brown. Paediatricians in Italy suggest it from six months, and for the first few times many parents steam the apple briefly so it is softer still. It tastes fresh and naturally sweet; the old habit of crumbling in a biscuit or a spoon of sugar is not for babies under one, and honey never. It is free of the major allergens. Chef's tip: a squeeze of lemon is often added to stop browning, but for babies simply grate it right before serving.

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Lito (sarbottam pitho porridge)

Ask a mother in Kathmandu, Pokhara or a hill village what her baby eats after the pasni rice-feeding ceremony, and the answer is often lito: porridge made from sarbottam pitho, a 'super flour' that families roast and grind themselves from two parts soybean to one part each of maize and wheat. Cooked with water it becomes a smooth, nutty, toast-coloured porridge with more protein than plain rice. For babies there is no salt, sugar, jaggery, honey or ghee needed. It contains soya and wheat (gluten). Chef's tip: roast the grains separately, each until it smells nutty and cracks between your teeth, then grind and sieve; the beans need longest.

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Steamed Nendran banana mash

Nendran is the long, golden plantain of Kerala, sold in hands at every market from Palakkad to Thiruvananthapuram, and a steamed ripe Nendran is one of the first fruits a Malayali baby tastes. Raw, it is too firm and starchy for a six-month-old, so it is steamed in its skin until the flesh turns soft and orange-gold, the dark string of seeds in the centre is pulled out, and the rest is mashed smooth. It is naturally sweet, so nothing is added: no sugar, jaggery, honey or salt. It is free of the major allergens. Chef's tip: wait until the skin is fully yellow with black freckles; a green Nendran stays chalky however long you steam it.

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Shānyào ní (Chinese yam purée)

Chinese yam (shānyào, the long, hairy-skinned root sold in bundles in markets from Beijing to Guangzhou) is valued in Chinese homes as easy on the tummy, and steamed shānyào ní is one of the classic first purées offered at six months. Once steamed, the crisp, slippery flesh turns floury and pale, and pressed through a sieve it gives a smooth, slightly sweet, potato-like purée. Nothing else is added: no salt, sugar or honey for babies. It is free of the major allergens. Chef's tip: wear gloves or oil your hands before peeling; the raw sap makes skin itch, but cooking destroys it completely.

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Zhū gān ní (pork liver purée)

Zhū gān ní, a smooth purée of pork liver, is the iron food Chinese grandmothers swear by, and wet markets from Chengdu to Shanghai sell small pieces of very fresh pork liver for exactly this. The liver is soaked to draw out the blood, steamed with a slice of ginger until cooked right through, then blended and stirred into rice porridge, where it gives a mild, savoury, slightly sweet taste. Liver is very rich in vitamin A, so babies should have it only in small amounts, no more than once a week. No salt, soy sauce, sugar or honey for babies. It is free of the major allergens. Chef's tip: buy the freshest liver you can find, glossy and deep red-brown, and freeze the purée in cubes so one portion is always ready.

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Daegu-sal juk (cod and vegetable baby porridge)

In Korea, homemade baby food (iyusik) follows clear stages, and by the late stage around nine months, Seoul parents are making juk with roughly crushed rice and small pieces of fish and vegetables. Daegu-sal juk uses mild, flaky cod with sweet courgette (aehobak) and carrot, and no soy sauce, salt or sesame oil. It is creamy, delicate and soft enough to mash between the gums. It contains fish and is free of milk, egg, gluten, nuts, soya and sesame. Chef's tip: crush the soaked rice lightly with a rolling pin or a couple of pulses in a blender; broken grains thicken the juk faster and give exactly the soft lumps this stage needs.

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Gē da tāng (flour-knot soup with tomato and egg)

Gē da tāng is the soup of northern Chinese homes, from Beijing hutongs to the kitchens of Hebei and Shandong, made on cold evenings or when someone is under the weather. Water is dripped onto flour until it forms little knots, which are rained into a broth of soft tomatoes and finished with egg, so the bowl is part soup, part tiny dumpling. For toddlers from 12 months it is cooked without salt or soy sauce, and the egg is simmered until fully set. It contains wheat (gluten) and egg, and sesame if you add the oil; there is no milk, nuts or soya. Chef's tip: drip the water in a thin trickle while stirring with chopsticks, so you get rice-sized knots, not a paste.

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Karashi nasuMustard aubergine pickle

Every late August, Yamagata kitchens fill with the sharp smell of hot mustard as families pickle the tiny round eggplants that grow there, minden-nasu, no bigger than a walnut. Salted, pressed and then coated in a paste of Japanese mustard, sugar and soy sauce, they are eaten whole as a snack with tea, packed into bento boxes and served beside rice through autumn. The first bite is sweet and salty, then the mustard rushes up the nose, and the skins stay a glossy dark purple around a tender, juicy middle. Use the smallest eggplants you can find: Japanese or Thai baby eggplants or small Indian aubergines, around 30–40 g each. The common mistake is mixing mustard powder with hot liquid, which kills its heat; always mix it with cold water and let it rest. It is ready when the eggplants feel soft right through when squeezed, look glossy, and taste hot and sweet rather than raw. Chef's tip: a teaspoon of salt rubbed firmly over the skins before pressing keeps the colour deep purple without the alum that some traditional cooks add.

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Kari boulettesSpiced meatballs in coconut curry

Kari boulettes come from Puducherry's Franco-Tamil Creole families, whose Sunday tables mix French names with Tamil spice boxes. Minced mutton or beef is mixed with onion, herbs and a little egg into small balls, then simmered in a curry of tomato, onion, poppy seed and coconut milk, often served with rice or crusty bread on feast days and at Christmas. The common mistake is stirring the balls as soon as they go into the gravy, which breaks them; let them set for five minutes, then only shake the pan. The meatballs are done when they reach 71 °C in the centre. Chef's tip: chill the shaped balls for 20 minutes before cooking so they hold their shape.

75 minIndianMeatGluten free
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Sout ribbetjieSalt-cured grilled lamb ribs

Before fridges, Karoo farmers rubbed lamb ribs with coarse salt and coriander and hung them in the cool pantry; today the cure happens in the fridge, but the result is the same deeply savoury, almost bacon-like rib that crackles at the edges. At a farm braai near Beaufort West or Sutherland it goes on first, over low coals, because it needs an hour or more to render its fat and turn tender, and people pick at it with their fingers while everything else cooks. Serve it with stywe pap and tomato smoor, or with roosterkoek and a crisp salad. Rinsing too lightly is the usual mistake: rinse off the surface salt after curing, or the meat will be too salty to eat. Chef's tip: keep the coals low and patient; high heat sets the fat alight and blackens the outside long before the meat is soft.

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Kasza jaglana na mlekuMillet porridge with milk

Millet, jagły, has been eaten in Poland for centuries, and kasza jaglana na mleku is the warming winter breakfast many Polish children grew up on, now back in fashion as a gentle, gluten-free porridge. The grains are cooked in water first, then simmered in milk until soft and creamy, and topped with sautéed apple, cinnamon and a little honey. The mistake that puts people off millet is skipping the rinse: the grains carry a bitter coating that has to be washed off and scalded away with boiling water. Chef's tip: toast the rinsed millet in the dry pan for 2 minutes before adding water, and the porridge tastes nutty instead of grassy.

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KatmiLacy fermented pancakes

Katmi come from Thrace in southern Bulgaria, where they were once baked on a domed iron pan over the fire and served at fairs and family breakfasts. The batter is lightly fermented with yeast, so the thin pancakes come out full of holes and lacy, crisp at the edge and soft in the middle. They are folded and eaten with honey, jam or crumbled sirene. The common mistake is pouring batter into a pan that isn't hot enough, which gives pale, rubbery pancakes with no lace. Chef's tip: let the batter rest until bubbly, and pour it in a thin spiral from the centre outwards rather than swirling, for proper lacy edges.

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Kawa zbożowaRoasted grain coffee

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Tsestalulu (sea-buckthorn juice)

Sea buckthorn grows wild along the river beds of Ladakh, and in Leh the bright orange berries are pressed into tsestalulu, a sharp, tropical-tasting juice sold in summer cafés and made at home after the autumn harvest. It is drunk chilled, sweetened with sugar or honey and thinned with cold water. The berries are very sour and slightly oily, so the juice is always diluted. The common mistake is boiling the pulp, which dulls both the colour and the fresh taste; just blend and strain. Chef's tip: frozen sea-buckthorn berries or plain unsweetened purée from health shops work very well; strain twice through a fine sieve for a silky drink.

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Hot jam doughnuts

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Nduma na viazi vitamuBoiled arrowroot and sweet potato

A plate of nduma and sweet potatoes with a mug of hot milky chai is the classic weekend breakfast in Kiambu and Murang'a homes, and farmers eat the same before a long day in the shamba. What Kenyans call arrowroot is taro, a starchy corm with a dense, nutty flesh that turns faintly purple and almost creamy when boiled; the sweet potatoes beside it are soft and honeyed, lovely with sliced avocado. Find taro (also called eddoes or dasheen) at African, Caribbean and Asian grocers. Raw taro irritates skin and mouth, so wear gloves to peel it and make sure it is boiled right through: undercooking is the one real mistake here and leaves an itchy, scratchy feeling in the throat. Chef's tip: cut taro and sweet potato into similar-sized pieces but add the sweet potato 10 minutes later, so both are done at once.

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Smokie pasuaSausage with kachumbari

Glass-fronted carts on Nairobi corners, outside schools and matatu stages, keep a tray of smokies warm in water all day, and 'pasua' means the vendor splits one down the middle and packs it with kachumbari. Kenyan smokies are smoked sausages usually made from pork and beef, so check the pack if you avoid pork; beef-only and chicken versions are sold too. They come already cooked, and the job is to heat them through until piping hot, then pile in the cool, sharp tomato-onion salad and a squirt of chilli or tomato sauce for a snack that crunches, snaps and drips. Cutting all the way through is the common slip: the smokie falls apart and the filling spills. Chef's tip: salt the kachumbari onions for a few minutes and squeeze them before mixing, which tames their bite the way the street vendors' do.

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Chennai onion samosa

In Chennai's old tea shops, many started by Irani and Muslim families, a glass of strong tea comes with a plate of small onion samosas: thin, crackly pastry folded around a filling of nothing but slow-cooked onion, green chilli, curry leaves and a little poha to soak up the juices. They are sold by the dozen in the evenings and at bus stands across Tamil Nadu. The pastry is the thin, ready-rolled samosa-patti kind, so they are quick to fold. The common mistake is undercooking the onion, which leaks water and makes the samosas soggy; fry it until soft and sweet, then cool. Chef's tip: seal the folds with a thick paste of flour and water, not plain water, so they do not open in the oil.

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Corn fritters

Corn fritters are a Sydney café staple, the brunch that sits on every menu from Surry Hills to Manly, stacked with smashed avocado, roast tomato or relish and a handful of herbs. The batter is mostly corn, with just enough flour and egg to bind, plus spring onion, coriander and a little chilli. They are quick enough for a weekday breakfast. A common mistake is crowding the pan, which steams them instead of crisping. Chef's tip: blitz a quarter of the corn so its milky juice binds the fritters and keeps them tender.

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Candied salmon

Candied salmon, sometimes called salmon candy, comes from the First Nations smokehouses of British Columbia's coast, where strips of wild salmon are cured in salt and brown sugar, then slowly smoked and glazed until sticky, chewy and deep red. It is a snack for the trail, the fishing boat and the lunchbox. This home version cures the fish in the fridge and then cooks it low in the oven with a little smoked salt or liquid smoke, so it is fully cooked rather than cold-smoked. A common mistake is skipping the drying stage; the pellicle (a tacky skin) is what lets the glaze cling. Chef's tip: keep the oven low and steady; too hot and the fish weeps white albumen.

210 minCanadianFishGluten free
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Kupat tahuRice cakes and tofu in peanut sauce

Kupat tahu is breakfast from a pushcart in Bandung and Magelang: chunks of compressed rice cake, freshly fried tofu and blanched bean sprouts, buried under a loose peanut sauce sharpened with garlic, chilli and sweet soy, then finished with crackers and fried shallots. The common mistake is grinding the peanut sauce too thick: it should pour like single cream so it soaks into the rice cake. Many prawn crackers are made with seafood, so choose plain cassava or rice crackers for a vegan plate. Chef's tip: fry the tofu just before serving; soft, hot tofu soaks up the sauce, while tofu fried ahead turns leathery.

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