Filipino recipes

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LaswaOkra and squash vegetable soup

Laswa is the humble vegetable soup of Iloilo and the Western Visayas, cooked on ordinary weekdays with whatever the garden or the market gives: okra, squash, string beans, aubergine and leafy greens, all in a light broth with onion and tomato. Ilonggo cooks often add shrimp; this is the vegetarian version, seasoned with salt and a little ginger. It is light and naturally a little thick from the okra, with about 3 g of protein per bowl; serve it with rice and fried tofu or a boiled egg. The most common mistake is stirring the pot too much once the okra goes in, which breaks it up and makes the soup slimy. Chef's tip: add the vegetables in order of how long they take, squash first and leaves last, so each one is just done.

25 min

Filipino Soups

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Paksiw na isdaFish simmered in vinegar

Paksiw na isda is cooked in homes all over the Philippines, from Manila to the Visayas, as an everyday lunch with rice; the vinegar keeps it for a day or two, and many people think it tastes better the next morning. Fish simmers in vinegar and a little water with ginger, garlic, peppercorns and long chillies, with aubergine and bitter melon, until the sauce is sharp, savoury and slightly reduced. A portion has about 26 g of protein from the fish. The classic mistake is stirring the pot before the vinegar has boiled: it leaves a raw, harsh taste, so let it come to the boil uncovered and untouched first. Chef's tip: use cane or coconut vinegar if you can find it; it is gentler than distilled white vinegar.

35 min

Filipino Fish

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Vegetarian ginisang monggoSautéed mung bean stew with tofu

All over the Philippines, ginisang monggo is what's on the table on Friday, a habit from the days of meatless Fridays that never went away. Whole green mung beans are simmered until they burst into a thick, savoury stew with lots of garlic, onion and tomato and finished with malunggay (moringa) or spinach leaves. Home cooks usually add pork or dried shrimp and season with fish sauce; this vegetarian version uses golden fried tofu and soy sauce instead. A portion gives about 25 g of protein from the mung beans and tofu, and it is filling enough to eat with rice as a whole meal. The most common mistake is adding the greens too early, so they turn grey and slimy; put them in at the very end and turn off the heat. Chef's tip: let the beans simmer until most have split their skins and some collapse into the liquid; that is what makes the stew creamy without any thickener.

65 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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Kalamay (Bohol sticky rice and coconut sweet)

Kalamay is the sweet Boholanos bring home for pasalubong, packed into halved coconut shells and sealed with bright red paper. It is made for fiestas and Christmas, and a pot of it is stirred for an hour by whoever has the strongest arms. Glutinous rice flour, coconut milk and dark muscovado sugar cook down slowly until the mixture is nearly black-brown, very thick and elastic. It tastes of toffee and toasted coconut, and the texture is sticky, chewy and smooth. Spread it on pan de sal, eat it with a spoon, or pair it with hot tsokolate. Kalamay is naturally egg-free: the glutinous rice starch swells in the coconut milk and binds everything into one dense, glossy mass, while the sugar keeps it soft. Chef's tip: the common mistake is turning the heat up to save time; it scorches on the bottom and tastes bitter, so keep it low and scrape the base each time you stir.

90 min

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Tortang ginilingMinced pork and potato omelette

Tortang giniling are small, thick omelettes packed with minced pork that has first been sautéed with garlic, onion, tomato and tiny cubes of potato. All over the Philippines they are a thrifty baon (packed lunch) and weeknight dish, eaten hot with rice and a dip of banana ketchup or vinegar with chilli. Most cooks get into trouble by adding the egg while the filling is still raw or wet, which gives soggy patties and undercooked pork, so cook the pork through and let the pan juices dry off first. Chef's tip: fry each torta in a small saucepan or a ladleful at a time in a frying pan, so they stay thick and fluffy rather than spreading thin.

28 min

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Adobong sitaw (Filipino long beans in vinegar and soy)

Adobong sitaw takes the Philippines' best-known cooking method, adobo, and applies it to long beans: a quick, thrifty dinner in homes across Luzon and the Visayas, eaten with rice and often a fried egg on top. The beans soak up a sharp, savoury, peppery sauce of cane vinegar, soy sauce and plenty of garlic, and stay just tender. Many families add pork; this version keeps it vegan. The classic mistake is stirring the pan straight after the vinegar goes in; Filipino cooks let it boil untouched for a minute first, so the raw, harsh edge cooks off. Chef's tip: lightly crush the peppercorns rather than using ground pepper; you get little bursts of heat in each bite.

18 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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Sans rivalCashew meringue buttercream cake

Sans rival ('without rival') took its French name in the mid-twentieth century and has become a Filipino celebration cake, most famously from Dumaguete in Negros Oriental, where it is boxed up for visitors. Four or more sheets of chewy-crisp cashew meringue are stacked with rich French buttercream and covered in chopped toasted cashews, then served cold from the fridge in thin slices for fiestas, Christmas and birthdays. There's no flour at all. Adding the butter while the yolk mixture is still warm is the classic disaster; the buttercream turns to soup, so beat until the bowl feels cool to the touch first. Chef's tip: draw rectangles on the baking paper and spread the meringue right to the lines; even layers stack straight and slice cleanly.

150 min

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Filipino egg pieBaked custard pie

Walk into a neighbourhood panaderya in Manila or Cebu in the afternoon and there is usually a round egg pie on the counter, sold by the slice for merienda. It is a deep, creamy custard of eggs and evaporated milk in a short, buttery crust, and its trademark is the top: some of the egg whites float up during baking and turn into a speckled brown skin. Eat it at room temperature or chilled, with a mug of coffee or a cold soft drink. Baking it too hot is the classic error, since it makes the custard puff, crack and weep. Chef's tip: beat the eggs gently with a fork rather than a whisk, so you don't whip in air; the fewer bubbles, the silkier the custard and the darker the top.

95 min

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Hopia mungoMung bean pastries

Binondo, Manila's old Chinatown, is where Filipinos queue for hopia, flat little pastries with a paper-thin, flaky skin and a dense, sweet filling. Brought over by Hokkien bakers, they are now sold everywhere from provincial bus stations to convenience stores, and a box is a standard pasalubong (gift) after a trip. The classic is hopia mungo, filled with yellow mung bean paste; purple ube is the other favourite, and you can swap 300 g of sweetened ube halaya for the mung beans. Hopia pastry is traditionally made with lard; this version uses vegetable oil and shortening, so it is vegan. Chef's tip: dry the mung bean paste in the pan until a spoonful holds its shape when rolled; a soft paste is the commonest mistake, and it squeezes out of the seams as you flatten the pastries.

112 min

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SilvanasCashew meringue sandwich cookies

Dumaguete, the university town on Negros Oriental, made silvanas famous: oval wafers of chewy cashew meringue sandwiched with rich yolk buttercream, coated all over in more buttercream and crumbs, then frozen. Visitors take boxes home in cool bags, and across the Philippines they are a birthday and pasalubong (homecoming gift) treat, eaten straight from the freezer when they are firm, crunchy and creamy at once. They are a cousin of the larger sans rival cake. The meringue needs patience; underbaked wafers go sticky and soft as soon as the buttercream touches them, so bake until they lift cleanly off the paper. Chef's tip: use the yolks left from the meringue for the buttercream, and pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowl, not on the whisk, or it spins into threads.

150 min

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Brazo de MercedesMeringue roll with custard filling

A soft, golden-topped meringue rolled around a thick, sweet custard of egg yolks and condensed milk, brazo de Mercedes ('Mercedes's arm') is a fixture at Filipino parties, handaan feasts and Christmas noche buena. The meringue is marshmallowy inside with a lightly browned skin; the filling is rich and silky, much like yema. It uses up a whole carton of eggs and no flour. A runny custard is the usual letdown; it oozes out when you roll, so cook it until a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a trail that holds. Chef's tip: roll the meringue while it's still warm, using the baking paper to guide it, and don't worry about a few cracks; the icing sugar hides them.

85 min

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Ginisang ampalaya (Filipino bitter gourd with egg)

Ginisang ampalaya is a weekday ulam in homes from Manila to Iloilo, cooked in one pan and eaten with a mound of white rice; Filipino parents swear by it as the vegetable that 'cleans the blood'. Thin slices of bitter gourd are sautéed with garlic, onion and tomato, then soft scrambled egg softens the bitterness and ties everything together. It is often seasoned with fish sauce or cooked with pork; this vegetarian version uses salt and a pinch of sugar. The common mistake is overcooking the gourd until it turns olive green and even more bitter; it should stay bright and just tender. Chef's tip: salt the slices for 10 minutes and squeeze them gently before cooking to draw out some of the bitterness, without rinsing all the flavour away.

20 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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MamonButter chiffon cupcakes

Filipino bakeshops sell mamon by the dozen, each tall, fluffy little cake baked in a fluted tin, brushed with butter and rolled in sugar, sometimes with grated cheese on top. They go into merienda boxes, children's party bags and pasalubong (gifts brought home), and they're best with hot chocolate or coffee. The crumb is a soft, buttery chiffon that squashes and springs back. Taking them out too soon is what makes them shrink and wrinkle as they cool, so wait until the tops spring back fully. Chef's tip: turn the tin upside down as soon as it comes out of the oven, resting the rim on two cups, and cool them that way for 10 minutes; they keep their height.

50 min

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Bistek TagalogSoy and calamansi beef with onions

Bistek Tagalog is the Luzon home cook's answer to steak and onions: thin slices of beef soaked briefly in soy sauce and sour calamansi, seared hot, then bathed in their own glossy, salty-tart sauce with tumbles of soft onion rings. In Manila and the Tagalog provinces it turns up on weeknight tables with a mound of steamed white rice to catch every drop of sauce. The commonest mistake is crowding the pan, which stews the beef grey and tough instead of browning it, so sear in two batches. Calamansi is sold frozen in Asian shops; a mix of lime and lemon juice is a fair stand-in. Chef's tip: slice the beef across the grain while it is still very cold from the fridge, and it will be both thinner and more tender.

30 min

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Lugaw for babies with squash and malunggay

In the Philippines, lugaw is the porridge every household turns to, and for babies it is cooked plain and extra soft, without the patis (fish sauce) or salt the family adds. Mothers often stir in mashed kalabasa, the orange squash from the market, and a few malunggay (moringa) leaves picked from the backyard tree, giving a sweet, gently green bowl for lunch or merienda. A slice of ginger in the pot is traditional and adds warmth. It has none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). Chef's tip: strip malunggay leaves from their stalks completely; the little stems stay tough even after long cooking.

50 min

Filipino Rice & Grains

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Tinolang manok for babies and toddlersGinger chicken soup for little ones

Tinolang manok, chicken simmered in a clear ginger broth with green papaya or chayote and malunggay (moringa) leaves, is the soup Filipino families make on rainy days and for anyone who needs looking after, and babies get their first taste of it from about nine months. Their portion is taken out before the patis (fish sauce) goes in, with the chicken shredded and the vegetables mashed. The baby's portion has none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish); the family's patis adds fish. Chef's tip: fry the ginger until it smells sweet before adding the chicken; that is the backbone of the broth.

50 min

Filipino Chicken

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Buko saladYoung coconut fruit salad

Buko salad is the dessert Filipino families bring to every birthday, christening and Christmas Noche Buena: strips of soft young coconut, mixed fruit, chewy nata de coco and sweet cream, chilled until icy cold. Children fish out the cherries first. It is quick to make the day before and is gluten free; it contains milk. Grapes in tinned fruit are already halved, but quarter any whole grapes lengthwise for younger children. Chef's tip: drain the fruit and nata de coco really well in a sieve for 15 minutes, or the salad turns watery overnight.

20 min

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Hotdog and marshmallow skewers

No Filipino children's party, from a seventh birthday in Quezon City to a barrio fiesta, is complete without a cabbage or pineapple bristling with sticks of red cocktail hotdogs and soft marshmallows. The sweet-salty pairing sounds odd and is loved by every child at the table, and it doubles as the party centrepiece. Most marshmallows contain gelatine, so this is not vegetarian; look for gelatine-free marshmallows if needed. Chef's tip: fry the hotdogs just until they split slightly and curl, then let them cool before threading so the marshmallows don't melt.

18 min

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Mango floatMango icebox cake

Mango float is the no-bake party cake of the Philippines, made in a big dish for birthdays, graduations and fiestas when Philippine mangoes are at their sweetest. Layers of crackers soften overnight in sweet cream until they slice like cake, with ripe mango in every forkful. Older children can assemble it themselves. It contains milk and gluten. Chef's tip: use mangoes that are fully ripe and fragrant but still firm enough to slice neatly; stringy, sour mangoes spoil it.

30 min

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Kamote cueFried caramelised sweet potato

Kamote cue is merienda sold from roadside woks across the Philippines, and children buy a stick or two on the walk home from school. Chunks of sweet potato are fried with brown sugar, which melts and wraps them in a crackly, shiny caramel crust while the inside goes soft and fluffy. It is a sweet treat, so portions are small. None of the common allergens are in it. Chef's tip: add the sugar only once the oil is hot and let it float and melt on the surface before stirring; stirring too early clumps it.

25 min

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Sopas for toddlersCreamy chicken macaroni soup

Sopas is the creamy chicken macaroni soup that Filipino mothers make on rainy afternoons, and it is a childhood favourite across the islands: soft elbow pasta, shredded chicken, carrot and cabbage in a broth made milky with evaporated milk. This toddler version leaves out the usual sliced hot dogs and patis and uses no-salt stock, so it suits little ones from a year old. It contains gluten (wheat pasta) and milk. Chef's tip: add the evaporated milk at the end and keep the soup just below a boil, so it stays smooth and doesn't split.

40 min

Filipino Soups

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Maruya (Filipino banana fritters)

Maruya is classic Filipino merienda: in barrios from Luzon to Mindanao, saba bananas are sliced into fans, dipped in batter and fried for the children's afternoon snack. Outside is crisp and lacy, inside the banana turns soft, sticky and tangy-sweet. A light dusting of sugar is enough because the fruit is sweet. It contains gluten, milk and egg. Saba bananas can be found in Asian shops; firm, just-ripe plantains work too. Chef's tip: choose bananas that are yellow with a few brown spots; under-ripe saba stays starchy, overripe falls apart in the oil.

25 min

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Am (Filipino rice-water first porridge)

Filipino lolas remember giving babies am, the thick, cloudy liquid that rises to the top as rice boils, ladled off and cooled before the rest of the pot is cooked for the family's lunch. Today it is offered as a thin, smooth first porridge, a few spoonfuls alongside other first foods such as mashed squash or banana, rather than on its own. It tastes mild and slightly sweet. It contains none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). Chef's tip: use more water than usual and keep the lid off, so the liquid thickens into a creamy am instead of evaporating away.

25 min

Filipino Drinks

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Champorado (Filipino chocolate rice porridge)

Champorado is the Filipino comfort bowl for rainy-season mornings and afternoon merienda, when children come home soaked from school in the monsoon. Glutinous rice is simmered with tablea, the pure roasted cacao tablets from Batangas and Cebu, into a thick, glossy, chocolatey porridge, then swirled with milk at the table. It is sweet, so this version uses less sugar than most and leans on the dark chocolate. It contains milk (and may contain soya in the chocolate). Chef's tip: keep stirring once the rice thickens; glutinous rice catches on the bottom of the pan very quickly.

35 min

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Graham balls

Graham balls are often the first sweet a Filipino child makes, usually for a class party or a cousin's birthday: crushed graham crackers kneaded with condensed milk into a dough, wrapped round a mini marshmallow and rolled in more crumbs, then set in paper cases in the fridge. They need no oven, just clean hands. They contain gluten and milk, and marshmallows usually contain gelatine, so they are not vegetarian unless you use gelatine-free marshmallows or a vegetarian gelling agent version. Graham crackers can be swapped for digestive biscuits. Chef's tip: chill the mixture for 20 minutes before rolling and it stops sticking to your palms.

30 min

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Ginataang bilo-biloRice balls in coconut milk

On rainy afternoons across Luzon, a big pot of ginataan bubbles on the stove and the whole street seems to know about it. Little balls of glutinous rice dough, saba banana, purple and orange sweet potato, strips of ripe jackfruit and sago pearls all simmer together in sweet coconut milk until it thickens into a soft, fragrant soup. Serve it hot in bowls, or cold the next day when it sets almost like pudding. Chef's tip: make the rice balls no bigger than a marble; large ones stay raw and gummy in the middle long after the bananas have collapsed.

50 min

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BikoSweet sticky rice cake

Bring biko to a Tagalog or Visayan gathering, whether a wake, a birthday or a fiesta, and the tray will be scraped clean. Glutinous rice is cooked, then stirred hard in a thick coconut milk and brown-sugar caramel until every grain is coated and the mass is dark, glossy and heavy on the spoon. Pressed into a tray and topped with crisp latik, it is cut into squares that are chewy, sweet and rich. Chef's tip: keep stirring once the rice goes into the caramel; leave it for a minute and the sugar catches and burns on the pan base.

75 min

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Filipino pork barbecue

Smoke from charcoal grills drifts down every barangay street at dusk, where sticks of Filipino pork barbecue are fanned over coals and brushed again and again with their sweet marinade until the edges caramelise. Thin slices of pork shoulder soak in soy sauce, calamansi, garlic, brown sugar and banana ketchup, and the result is sticky, sweet-salty and a little charred. Eat them with garlic rice and spiced vinegar, or straight off the stick. Chef's tip: slice the pork thin and thread it in loose ribbons; thick chunks char outside before they reach a safe 71 °C inside.

60 min

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Maja blancaCoconut corn pudding

Wobbly squares of maja blanca sit on almost every Filipino Christmas Eve table, beside the leche flan and the fruit salad. Coconut milk and milk are thickened with cornflour into a smooth white pudding studded with sweet corn, poured into a tray and set firm enough to slice, then crowned with latik or toasted coconut. It tastes cool, milky and gently sweet, and kids love it. Chef's tip: whisk the cornflour into cold liquid first and keep stirring as it heats; added to hot milk it seizes into lumps you can't whisk out.

35 min

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Arroz caldoChicken rice porridge

Rainy-season mornings, sick days and late nights after a party all end with a bowl of arroz caldo somewhere in the Philippines. Sticky rice simmers with chicken and a fistful of ginger until it breaks into a thick, savoury porridge, tinted gold with safflower, then each bowl gets crunchy fried garlic, spring onion, a halved boiled egg and a squeeze of calamansi. It is the Filipino cousin of congee, with a sharper ginger bite. Chef's tip: stir often in the last half hour; glutinous rice settles and scorches on the base, and one burnt patch flavours the whole pot.

65 min

Filipino Rice & Grains

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Kwek-kwekBattered fried quail eggs

After dark in Quiapo and around university belts in Manila, fishball carts sell kwek-kwek: hard-boiled quail eggs dunked in a bright orange batter and fried until puffed and crunchy, then speared and dipped in sour vinegar with onion and chilli. The orange comes from annatto, not egg yolk or food colouring, and the batter stays thin so you bite straight through to the creamy egg. Chicken eggs done the same way are called tokneneng. Chef's tip: dust the peeled eggs with cornflour before battering; wet, slippery eggs shed their coat in the oil.

30 min

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Banana cueCaramelised fried bananas

Walk past any Manila school gate or jeepney stop around three in the afternoon and you will find a vendor turning saba bananas in a wok of bubbling oil and brown sugar. The sugar melts and clings to the fruit, setting into a thin, crackly amber shell over soft, slightly tart flesh, and the bananas are sold two or three to a bamboo stick. Sweet potato cooked the same way is called camote cue. Eat them warm with a glass of iced sago't gulaman. Chef's tip: add the sugar only once the bananas are already golden; sugar thrown in at the start burns black before the fruit is cooked through.

25 min

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Mais con yeloSweet corn shaved ice

The simplest of the Filipino ice desserts, mais con yelo turns up at carinderias and beach stalls from Batangas to Davao in the dry months of March to May. A tall glass is layered with sweet corn kernels and sugar, buried in finely shaved ice and drowned in evaporated milk, and you stir it all into a cold, milky slush with a long spoon. Some add a scoop of vanilla ice cream or crisp rice cereal on top. Chef's tip: shave or crush the ice as finely as you can; chunky ice cubes leave the milk and corn sitting apart instead of blending into a soft slush.

10 min

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TsokolateThick hot chocolate

Discs of pure roasted cacao called tablea, pressed by hand in Batangas and Cebu, melt into the thick, slightly gritty tsokolate that Filipinos drink on Christmas mornings with puto bumbong or bibingka. It is whisked in a tall pot with a wooden batidor rolled between the palms until it foams, and it tastes deep, bitter-sweet and earthy rather than milky. A little milk softens it; many families drink it with water only. Chef's tip: keep the heat low once the tablea melts; boiling cacao hard makes it scorch and taste burnt.

17 min

Filipino Drinks

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Okoy (shrimp and squash fritters)

In coastal towns of Laguna and Pampanga, okoy are fried to order at the market: a thin batter barely holding together small shrimp, matchsticks of squash or sweet potato and bean sprouts, flattened on a saucer and slid into hot oil until lacy and shatteringly crisp. They are eaten hot, dipped in garlicky vinegar, as merienda or as a starter before rice. Chef's tip: use just enough batter to bind; a thick batter makes heavy pancakes instead of crunchy, see-through nests.

40 min

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Sago't gulamanTapioca and jelly drink

Tall plastic cups of sago't gulaman are what Manila drinks on hot afternoons, ladled from a big drum at street corners and sold next to fried snacks. Chewy tapioca pearls and cubes of firm agar jelly float in cold water sweetened with a dark, almost caramelised brown-sugar syrup scented with pandan. Kids slurp it through a wide straw; adults buy it with every plate of banana cue. Chef's tip: cook the syrup until it smells of caramel but stop before it smokes; pale syrup tastes only of sugar, burnt syrup tastes bitter.

40 min

Filipino Drinks

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Dynamite lumpiaCheese-stuffed chilli rolls

Bar chow menus in Quezon City and roadside stalls in Pampanga both claim dinamita: a whole long green chilli, seeded, stuffed with a stick of cheese and wrapped tightly in lumpia pastry with its stalk poking out like a fuse. Fried until blistered and crisp, the chilli turns sweet and only mildly hot while the cheese melts into it. A sweet chilli or banana ketchup dip is usual. Many versions add seasoned meat; this one keeps it to cheese. Chef's tip: dry the chillies well inside after seeding; trapped water bursts the wrapper in the hot oil.

30 min

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SumanCoconut sticky rice rolls

Every province has its own suman, but the everyday one sold in bundles at Antipolo's church steps and on Tagalog breakfast tables is suman sa gata: glutinous rice half-cooked in salted coconut milk, rolled tightly in banana leaf and steamed until dense and chewy. Unwrap one and dip it in sugar, or eat it with ripe mango and hot chocolate in the morning. They travel well and are handed out at fiestas by the dozen. Chef's tip: wilt the banana leaves over a flame or in hot water first; cold leaves crack as you roll and the rice leaks out while steaming.

120 min

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Spanish breadSweet buttery bread rolls

Despite the name, nobody in Spain would recognise these: they belong to the neighbourhood panaderya, sold warm from glass cases at dawn and again at four o'clock alongside pandesal. A soft milk dough is rolled around a paste of butter, sugar and breadcrumbs, then coated in more crumbs before baking, so the filling melts into a sticky, caramel-like ribbon. Dunk one in coffee for merienda. Chef's tip: roll the dough thin before adding the filling; thick dough swallows the butter paste and you lose that gooey centre.

138 min

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EmbutidoSteamed pork roll

Foil-wrapped logs of embutido are steamed days ahead of Noche Buena in kitchens all over the Philippines, then sliced cold or fried for the Christmas Eve spread. The roll is made from minced pork bound with egg and breadcrumbs and studded with carrot, sweet pickle relish and raisins, with boiled egg running through the middle so each slice shows a yellow-and-white centre. Serve with banana ketchup and rice, or in pandesal. Chef's tip: roll the foil tightly and twist the ends like a sweet; a loose wrap lets steam in and the roll comes out soggy and crumbly.

90 min

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IsawGrilled chicken intestines

Around the University of the Philippines campus in Diliman and in night markets across Manila, isaw is the street-grill snack people queue for: chicken intestines threaded in coils on sticks, grilled over charcoal until crisp and smoky, and dipped in sour, chilli-spiked vinegar. At home the key is hygiene: the intestines are slit open, scrubbed with salt and vinegar, then simmered before grilling, so they are clean and cooked through to 74 °C. Chef's tip: never skip the simmering step; grilled-from-raw intestines char outside long before the inside is safe.

90 min

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Buko pandanCoconut pandan jelly dessert

Big bowls of buko pandan come out of Filipino fridges for Christmas, New Year and every family reunion in between. Soft strips of young coconut and cubes of bright green pandan jelly are folded into chilled sweetened cream, so each spoonful is cool, fragrant and slightly chewy. This version sets the jelly with agar (gulaman) rather than gelatin, so it is fully vegetarian. Chef's tip: let the jelly set completely before cutting and folding; half-set agar breaks into mush and turns the cream cloudy green.

25 min

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Sapin-sapinLayered sticky rice cake

The name means layered, and in Pampanga, the kitchen of the Philippines, sapin-sapin is a showpiece for fiestas and Christmas tables: a steamed glutinous rice and coconut cake built in stripes of purple ube, plain white and golden jackfruit, each set before the next is poured. It is cut in diamonds and scattered with latik, the toasted coconut curds left when coconut cream is cooked down. The texture is soft, sticky and cool. Chef's tip: steam each layer until it is just set before pouring the next; pour too early and the colours bleed into one muddy layer.

120 min

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MorconStuffed beef roll

Morcon is a fiesta and Christmas centrepiece from Spanish-era kitchens in Pampanga and Batangas: a thin sheet of beef wrapped around strips of sausage, carrot, pickle and boiled egg, tied up, browned and braised slowly in tomato sauce until meltingly tender. Sliced, it shows a colourful mosaic, and the reduced sauce is spooned over steamed rice. It takes time but can be cooked a day ahead and reheated in its sauce. Chef's tip: pound the beef to an even thickness before rolling; thick patches tear the roll and stay tough while thin ones fall apart.

165 min

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Pichi-pichiCassava gummies with coconut

Grated cassava, sugar and water steamed in little cups turn into pichi-pichi: soft, translucent, wobbly bites the colour of amber or tinted with ube or pandan, then rolled in grated coconut. They are a party staple across Quezon and Manila, and bakeshops also roll them in grated cheese, though the coconut version keeps them vegan. Served chilled or at room temperature with coffee. Chef's tip: squeeze the grated cassava only lightly; wringing out all the juice gives you dry, crumbly cakes instead of chewy, glossy ones.

60 min

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PalitawSticky rice discs with coconut

Palitaw comes from the Tagalog word for rising to the surface, which is exactly how you know they are cooked. Flat ovals of glutinous rice dough are dropped into boiling water, sink, then float up a minute later; they are lifted out, rolled in freshly grated coconut and finished with a sprinkle of sugar mixed with toasted sesame. Vendors in Laguna and Batangas sell them warm on banana leaves for merienda. Chef's tip: roll the dough thin, about 5 mm; thick palitaw float before the centre is cooked and stay pasty inside.

30 min