Tiler khaja

Sesame sugar sticks

Kushtia, on the Gorai river in the west of Bangladesh, has been famous for tiler khaja since before Partition, and the long white sticks dusted with sesame are sold at every bus stop and train station in the district, wrapped in paper bags for the journey. The sugar is boiled to a hard syrup, then pulled and folded by hand, often over a hook on the wall, until it turns from clear amber to opaque white and fills with tiny air pockets, so the finished sticks are brittle, crunchy and light, almost honeycombed, with nutty toasted sesame on the outside. They are snacked on with tea and given to children as a treat. The trap is waiting too long to pull, as the sugar sets glass-hard; it should be just cool enough to touch. Chef's tip: wear clean, heatproof kitchen gloves rubbed with a little oil, as hot sugar burns badly.