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Shada polao
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Shada polao

Plain fragrant rice

At a biye bari in Dhaka or Sylhet, shada polao is the ivory-white mound at the centre of the wedding plate, waiting for the chicken roast, rezala and jali kabab; it is also the rice families make for Eid and for guests. Tiny, perfumed kalijira (or chinigura) grains are fried in ghee with cardamom, cinnamon and bay, then cooked with just enough water so they come out separate, glossy and fragrant with a hint of sweetness. The mistake to avoid is too much water: kalijira grains are small and turn mushy fast, so measure carefully and let them finish in steam. Contains milk (ghee). Chef's tip: add a tablespoon of milk and a few drops of kewra or rose water just before the final steam, as wedding cooks do, for that unmistakable biye bari perfume.

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