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Vadas

Braised beef in mustard cream sauce

The word vadas means in the manner of game, and the dish once was a way of treating venison; in Budapest it is now made with beef and is one of the great canteen and Sunday dishes. A joint of beef is browned and braised with carrots, parsley root and celeriac, then the vegetables are blended into a velvety orange sauce, sharpened with mustard, a little caramelised sugar, vinegar and lemon, and enriched with cream. Thick slices of beef sit in the sauce next to fluffy bread dumplings (zsemlegombóc) and a spoon of cranberry sauce. Some cooks marinate the beef in red wine; this version uses stock and vinegar, so it is alcohol-free. Where most people go wrong is serving the meat before it is truly tender; it should yield to a fork. Chef's tip: if you marinate the beef in the vinegar and spices overnight, always do it in the fridge, covered.

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