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Pão de alho

Garlic bread

At a Brazilian churrasco, from the gaúcho south to weekend grills on São Paulo rooftops, garlic bread goes on the coals first so everyone has something to eat while the meat cooks. Small soft rolls are split and slathered with a paste of butter, mayonnaise, crushed garlic and cheese, then turned over gentle heat until the crust is spotted gold and the filling melts into the crumb. Parmesan and many mozzarellas use animal rennet, so pick cheeses made with vegetarian rennet if needed. Chef's tip: grill them at the cooler edge of the fire, not over the fiercest coals.

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