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Match stick salad
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Match stick salad

Carrots, turnips, three colours of pepper, cucumber, onion and tomato cut into fine matchsticks and spiced with chilli, lemon and coriander. A sizzling dressing of hot oil with cumin, mustard and sesame seeds is poured over at the table. It is crunchy and bright, and should be eaten as soon as it's dressed.

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Aloo pie is a Trinidadian street snack: a soft, chewy fried dough shaped like a big half-moon, filled with mashed potato seasoned with roasted geera, garlic, pepper and shado beni. It's sold at doubles stands, roti shops and school canteens all over the island, and the classic way to eat it is split open and loaded with curry channa, tamarind sauce and pepper. It's softer and breadier than an Indian samosa. Chef's tip: roast the geera seeds yourself until they're dark brown and fragrant, then grind them. That deep, smoky cumin flavour is what makes Trini aloo pie taste the way it should.

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Ital stewPumpkin and sweet potato stew

Ital food is the cooking of the Rastafari, found from the hills of St Andrew to roadside Ital shops in Westmoreland and St Thomas. It is plant-based, close to the earth and traditionally made without added salt, built on fresh 'food' (ground provisions) and greens. This stew is golden and gently sweet, thickened by melting pumpkin and silky okra, with coconut milk, thyme and pimento giving warmth and a whole scotch bonnet giving fruity heat. Serve with rice and peas or boiled green bananas. Chef's tip: cut half the pumpkin very small and the other half in big chunks. The small pieces collapse into the coconut milk and thicken it naturally, while the big ones hold their shape.

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DoublesCurried chickpeas in fried bread

Doubles are Trinidad's favourite street food, sold from carts at dawn on corners from Curepe to San Fernando and said to have started in Princes Town in the 1930s. Two pieces of bara, a soft, puffy fried flatbread coloured with turmeric, are piled with soft curried chickpeas (channa), then spooned with sweet tamarind sauce, cool cucumber chutney, shado beni sauce and as much pepper sauce as you dare ('slight' or 'heavy'). They're messy, cheap and wonderful, eaten standing up from a square of paper. These are different from Indian chole bhature: the bara is light and yeasty, the channa is cooked very soft in Caribbean curry, and the toppings are sweet, sour and fiery all at once. Chef's tip: keep the bara dough very soft and wet, and handle it only with oiled hands. Stretch each ball thin over your fingers and slide it straight into the hot oil, so it puffs light and stays soft instead of turning into a crisp puri.

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Mango chowSpiced green mango

Chow is what Trinidadians eat on a hot afternoon: fruit, most often half-ripe mango, sliced and tossed with lime juice, salt, garlic, chopped shado beni and plenty of hot pepper. It's sold in little bags at roadside stands, beach stalls and outside schools all over the island. It's crunchy, sour, salty, garlicky and fiery all at once. Pineapple, cucumber and pommecythere (golden apple) are made the same way. Chef's tip: let the chow sit for 10 minutes before eating. The salt and lime draw out the mango's juice into a tangy, peppery 'pickle' liquid, and that juice is the best part.

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Cheese and heart of palm pastelFried cheese and palm heart pastries

Pastel is the taste of the São Paulo street market: big rectangles of thin dough fried to order until they blister and puff, eaten hot from paper with a glass of caldo de cana (sugar-cane juice). Cheese and palmito (heart of palm) are two of the most popular meat-free fillings. Chef's tip: add a spoon of cachaça (or vodka) to the dough and fry in properly hot oil. The alcohol evaporates fast and makes the crust puff into the light, bubbly blisters that market pastel is famous for.

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FarofaToasted manioc meal

Farofa is on the table at almost every Brazilian meal, from feijoada to Sunday barbecue: coarse manioc (cassava) meal toasted in butter or olive oil with onion and garlic until golden, sandy and nutty. Sprinkle it over beans, stews and moqueca to soak up the juices and add crunch. Bacon is common in the South-East; this butter version is the classic everyday one (use olive oil for a vegan farofa). Chef's tip: toast the manioc over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly, and go by smell and sound. It's ready when it smells like toasted hazelnuts and sounds dry and sandy against the spoon; high heat scorches it in seconds.

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Bolo de cenoura com cobertura de chocolateCarrot cake with chocolate topping

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Limonada suíçaCreamy lime drink

Limonada suíça is the creamy, frothy limeade served in juice bars and lunch counters all over Brazil. Despite the name ('Swiss lemonade'), nobody knows of any Swiss link, and it's made with whole Tahiti limes, blended briefly, skin and all, then strained and sweetened with condensed milk. It's cold, zingy and pale green, perfect with a hot lunch. Chef's tip: blend for no more than 10–15 seconds. Lime peel gives the drink its wonderful perfume, but blended too long it releases bitterness from the pith; serve it straight away for the same reason.

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Couve à mineiraShredded garlic collard greens

Couve à mineira, from Minas Gerais, is the bright green side dish that goes with feijoada, tutu and plain rice and beans all over Brazil. Collard greens are rolled up like a cigar, sliced into fine ribbons and cooked for barely two minutes with garlic, so they stay vivid, tender and slightly crunchy. Chef's tip: the knife work is the whole recipe. Slice the rolled leaves as thinly as you possibly can (Brazilian cooks aim for threads 1–2 mm wide), then cook them fast over high heat with the lid off. Thick strips or a covered pan give you dull, soggy greens.

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BeijinhoCoconut condensed milk sweets

Beijinho ('little kiss') is the white twin of brigadeiro, and the two always appear side by side at Brazilian birthday parties all over the country. Condensed milk is cooked with butter and coconut until thick, then rolled into small balls, coated in sugar or coconut and topped with a single clove. Chef's tip: don't skip the clove. It's the signature of a proper beijinho, giving a little warm, spicy perfume that balances all that sweetness (it's for decoration and aroma; take it out before eating).

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BrigadeiroChocolate condensed milk truffles

Brigadeiro is Brazil's favourite sweet: no birthday party anywhere in the country is complete without trays of them in little paper cases. Condensed milk, cocoa and butter are stirred in a pan until thick, then rolled into soft, fudgy balls and coated in chocolate sprinkles. It's said to be named after Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes, an air force officer who ran for president in 1945. Chef's tip: learn the ponto (the doneness point). Tilt the pan and drag your spatula through the mixture: when it slides as one mass and you can see the pan base for 2–3 seconds before it closes up, it's ready. Undercooked brigadeiros won't hold a shape; overcooked ones turn chewy.

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Japchae (잡채) is a dish of chewy, translucent sweet potato starch noodles tossed with spinach, mushrooms and brightly coloured vegetables in a sweet soy and sesame dressing. It is made all over Korea for birthdays, holidays and big family meals, because it can be prepared ahead and is eaten warm or at room temperature. Each vegetable is cooked quickly on its own, then everything is mixed by hand so the noodles soak up the seasoning. Older recipes include beef; this one uses shiitake for the savoury depth. Chef's tip: dress the noodles while they are still hot and keep each vegetable crisp. Overcooked noodles clump and turn gluey, so pull them as soon as they are clear and chewy.

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OmuriceOmelette-wrapped fried rice

Omurice (オムライス) is a yōshoku dish, Western-style Japanese food, said to have been invented at a Tokyo restaurant around 1900. Tangy ketchup fried rice is wrapped in a thin, soft omelette and topped with more ketchup. Chicken is usual inside; this vegetarian version uses mushrooms, sweetcorn, peas and onion. A favourite with children, and on the table in half an hour. Chef's tip: pull the pan off the heat while the top of the omelette is still a little runny; it finishes cooking from the heat of the rice, and stays soft and silky as in a Tokyo yōshoku diner.

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OkonomiyakiSavoury cabbage pancake

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KkakdugiCubed radish kimchi

Kkakdugi (깍두기) is kimchi made from chunky cubes of Korean radish instead of cabbage. It is quicker to make than cabbage kimchi and stays crunchy and juicy, with a sweet, peppery bite. Made all over Korea, it is the classic partner to rich soups and noodles. Traditional versions are seasoned with fish sauce and salted shrimp; here soy sauce and a little grated pear give the same savoury-sweet depth, keeping it vegan. Ready to eat after a day or two of fermenting. Chef's tip: rub in the chilli flakes on their own first, before the wet seasonings. The red then clings to every cube, and the radish keeps its crunch.

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Kitsune udonUdon with fried tofu

Kitsune udon (きつねうどん, 'fox udon') comes from Osaka, where a noodle shop first floated a sheet of sweet simmered fried tofu on a bowl of udon in the 1890s. The name comes from the folk tale that foxes love fried tofu. Soft, chewy noodles sit in a pale, gently sweet broth, and the tofu soaks up the soup like a sponge. This version uses a kombu and shiitake dashi instead of bonito, so it is fully vegetarian. Chef's tip: let the sweet tofu cool in its simmering liquid if you have time; as it cools it drinks up the sauce, so every bite bursts with sweet soy juice in the hot broth.

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HotteokFilled sweet fried pancakes

Hotteok (호떡) are chewy, yeasted pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon that melt into a hot syrup as they fry. They are a winter street snack all over Korea, but Busan is known for ssiat hotteok (씨앗호떡), where the fried pancake is slit open and stuffed with a handful of toasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Glutinous rice flour in the dough makes it soft and stretchy. Be careful with the first bite, as the filling is very hot. This dough uses milk, so it is vegetarian; use water instead for a dairy-free version. Chef's tip: rest the dough until it has properly doubled and is full of bubbles, and keep your hands oiled. A sticky, well-risen dough gives the chewy, stretchy texture.

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Goya champuruBitter melon stir-fry

Goya champuru (ゴーヤーチャンプルー) is the best-known dish of Okinawa, Japan's southern islands, where bitter melon (goya) grows on vines in summer. Champuru means 'mixed up' in the Okinawan language: slices of goya are stir-fried with firm tofu and egg, and the bitterness is balanced by soy and the richness of the egg. Pork or Spam is usual; this vegetarian version relies on well-browned tofu. Serve with rice. Chef's tip: scrape out every bit of the white pith from inside the goya. That's where most of the harsh bitterness lives, so a clean scrape gives you the pleasant, refreshing bitterness Okinawans love.

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Gyeran mariRolled omelette

Gyeran mari (계란말이) is a Korean rolled omelette: beaten egg with finely chopped vegetables, cooked in thin layers and rolled up in the pan, then cut into thick slices that show a neat spiral. It is a much-loved side dish and lunchbox favourite nationwide, and children enjoy it with a little ketchup. The trick is a low heat, so the egg stays soft and yellow rather than brown. Serve warm or at room temperature with rice. Chef's tip: roll while the top of each layer is still slightly wet. The runny egg is the glue, and it keeps the roll soft and in one piece.

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BibimbapRice bowl with seasoned vegetables

Bibimbap (비빔밥) means 'mixed rice': a bowl of warm rice topped with small heaps of separately seasoned vegetables, a fried egg and a spoonful of gochujang sauce, all stirred together at the table. The city of Jeonju in North Jeolla province is famous for it and serves it with a dozen or more toppings; this home version keeps five that are easy to find. Each vegetable is cooked on its own so it keeps its colour and texture, and the sauce brings sweetness, heat and a nutty sesame finish. Serve with kimchi and a light soup. Chef's tip: season every vegetable on its own, lightly, and taste each one. If each heap is good alone, the mixed bowl will be balanced; if they are all dressed alike, the bowl tastes flat.

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Horenso goma-aeSpinach with sesame dressing

Horenso no goma-ae (ほうれん草の胡麻和え) is one of the most common side dishes in Japanese home cooking and bento boxes. Spinach is blanched for a few seconds, squeezed dry and tossed in a nutty dressing of freshly toasted, crushed sesame seeds with soy and a little sugar. Toasting and grinding the seeds yourself makes all the difference. Serve as one of several small dishes with rice and miso soup. Chef's tip: toast and grind the sesame yourself just before mixing. Ready-ground sesame tastes flat; freshly ground seeds smell like roasted nuts and give the dish its rich flavour.

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DorayakiHoney pancakes with sweet bean filling

Dorayaki (どら焼き) are two small, golden honey pancakes pressed around a thick layer of sweet red bean paste (anko). They were first sold in their modern form by a Tokyo sweet shop in the early 1900s, and are now in every Japanese bakery and convenience store. The pancakes are soft, moist and slightly springy, with a deep brown, even surface. A good afternoon treat with green tea, and children love them. Chef's tip: wipe the pan almost dry of oil and keep the heat low. That's how Japanese sweet shops get the smooth, evenly brown 'gong' surface (dora means gong); too much oil gives a blotchy, spotted pancake.

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Doenjang jjigaeSoybean paste stew with tofu

Doenjang jjigae (된장찌개) is the stew Korean families all over the country eat most often: a bubbling pot of fermented soybean paste broth with tofu, potato, courgette, mushrooms and chilli, served with rice and banchan. Doenjang is deeper and funkier than Japanese miso, and it gives the broth a rich, earthy savouriness. It is usually made with anchovy stock; here a quick kelp and shiitake stock does the same job, so the stew is vegan. Serve it in the pot it was cooked in, still bubbling. Chef's tip: add the doenjang early and let it simmer. Its earthy depth comes out with a few minutes of bubbling, and it is better a little thick and salty than thin, as it is eaten with plenty of rice.

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Hobak jeonPan-fried courgette rounds

Hobak jeon (호박전) are slices of Korean courgette dusted in flour, dipped in beaten egg and pan-fried until golden. They are one of the jeon that families all over Korea make for holiday tables, and they also make an easy side dish for an everyday meal. The courgette turns sweet and tender inside its soft egg coating. Korean aehobak is paler and sweeter than a regular courgette, but either works. Serve warm or at room temperature with a soy dipping sauce. Chef's tip: keep the heat gentle. Good hobak jeon is bright yellow with only light golden spots; a hot pan browns the egg before the courgette is tender.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

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