Miso-simmered beef tendon
Walk along the narrow Jan-Jan Yokochō alley in Shinsekai, under the Tsūtenkaku tower, and every kushikatsu counter has a long shallow tray of doteyaki bubbling at the front. Beef tendon is simmered until it wobbles, then stewed slowly in a glossy sauce of white miso, sugar and mirin, and it is eaten from the afternoon on, piled with raw spring onion and a shake of shichimi. The sauce contains mirin, which contains alcohol; for an alcohol-free version use 60 ml water, 1 extra tablespoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of rice vinegar instead. Chef's tip: blanch the tendon twice and rinse it well, or the sauce turns cloudy and tastes of the butcher's shop.
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A smooth, glossy red chilli sauce of salted fresh red chillies blended with tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic and jaggery. Salting the chillies overnight softens them and takes off some of the rawness. It keeps for weeks in a glass jar in the fridge and goes with spring rolls, samosas and noodles.
The everyday Gujarati green chutney: fresh coriander, hot green chillies, raw mango and green pepper blended coarsely with fafadia gathia, which thickens it and stops it going watery. It's hot, tangy and a little sweet. Serve it with dhokla, khandvi, sandwiches and all kinds of farsan.
Sliced tomatoes, creamy avocado and spring onions in a honey, mustard and red wine vinegar dressing, with tortilla chips stirred in at the end for crunch. It is a quick, Mexican-style side for parties and barbecues. Add the chips just before serving and eat it straight away, before they soften.
A cool, smooth dip of fresh yogurt blended with spring onions, cucumber, green chilli, garlic and roasted cumin. It's light and refreshing, and is just right with barbecued paneer, vegetable skewers and corn. Serve it well chilled.
Crisp mixed lettuce with creamy avocado, juicy orange segments, cubes of feta and roasted nuts, dressed with olive oil, lemon and herbs and finished with grated parmesan. It's a quick, elegant salad for a dinner party or a light lunch. Toss the avocado in lemon juice first so it stays green.
A thick, creamy garlic dip of sour cream and eggless mayonnaise with garlic paste, red pepper and dried parsley. Leaving it overnight lets the garlic flavour develop fully. Serve it with vegetable sticks, chips, crackers or potato wedges.
A simple, tangy dip made with thick home-made cottage cheese (hung yogurt) or ready-made sour cream, seasoned with garlic, chilli, black pepper and vinegar. Serve it cold with crisps, nachos and jacket potatoes. The book's other dips use this as their 'sour cream'.
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A crunchy, raita-like dip of sour cream packed with cucumber, coloured peppers, carrot and onion, with fresh coriander, green chilli and cumin. Chill it for a few hours so the flavours blend. Serve it with rice, naan or pitta.
The owner's version of hummus: boiled chickpeas blended with roasted sesame seeds and roasted peanuts instead of tahini, plus garlic, chilli, lemon and olive oil, and topped with spring onions. It's smooth, nutty and a little spicy. Serve it chilled with pitta bread or vegetable sticks.
A thick, creamy mint chutney made with hung-yogurt cottage cheese, so it clings to grilled food without running. It's fresh with mint and coriander and gently spicy. Serve it with barbecued paneer and vegetable skewers, tikka, kebabs and corn on the cob.
Crisp samosa-pastry cones stuffed with paneer, spring onion, coconut, aniseed and green chilli, dipped in batter and rolled in sesame breadcrumbs before frying. They look impressive on a party platter. Serve with red, green and tamarind chutneys.
A layered party dip: creamy cream cheese and feta sandwiching a bright green basil, spinach and parmesan pesto and a layer of sundried tomato paste. It's set in a lined bowl, then turned out so the layers show. Serve it with pieces of bread or crackers.
Short pieces of spaghetti in a peppery batter, fried in small balls until golden and crunchy. Kids love them. Serve hot with the quick tomato-chilli sauce.
A bright green soup of peas and lentils, thickened with a buttery curry roux and finished with mint and cream. Thin spaghetti makes it filling, and crisp three-cheese toast on the side turns it into a proper meal.
Crisp chips tossed with stir-fried peppers, spring onions and chillies in a glossy sweet-and-sour sauce. A pinch of pink colour gives it the classic restaurant look, and pineapple juice makes it fruitier. Serve hot, as soon as the chips are coated.
Soft yeasted dough rolled up with spicy pizza sauce, red peppers, onion, green chillies, herbs and cheese, sliced into spirals and baked. Bake them as soon as they're shaped, so they don't go soggy. Serve hot.
Thick rings of white onion in a chilli-spiked batter of gram, rice and self-raising flour with breadcrumbs, fried until crisp and golden. The rice flour keeps them crunchy. Serve with red, green, and date and tamarind chutneys.
Crumbly, buttery cheese pastry cut into strips, twisted, and baked with poppy seeds until crisp and golden. Serve them warm, or cool and store them in a tin for snacking.
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Golden, crunchy cubes of day-old bread, brushed with olive oil and baked with parsley. Scatter them over any soup just before serving, or toss them through a salad. Swap the parsley for garlic powder to make garlic croutons.
Bread fingers spread with a spicy garlic butter, baked until crisp, then topped with cheddar and baked again until it melts. Serve them hot alongside a bowl of soup, or on their own as a snack.
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A thin, tangy dip of soy sauce and white vinegar with vegetable and sesame oils, toasted sesame seeds, chilli and garlic. Serve it with spring rolls, chilled or warmed. It's also a great dressing for coleslaw: toss and chill for up to 3 days, and add shelled sunflower seeds before serving.
A guacamole-style dip of ripe avocado mashed with tomato, onion, green chillies, coriander, a little sour cream, Tabasco and lemon. Make it smooth or chunky, as you like. Chill it and serve with nacho triangles.
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An Indo-Chinese restaurant favourite: a clear stock thickened with cornflour and packed with finely shredded vegetables and paneer or tofu. It gets its heat from black pepper and chilli and its sourness from vinegar. Serve it sizzling hot with green chillies in vinegar, chilli sauce and soy sauce on the side.
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