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Paparajotes
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Paparajotes

Lemon leaf fritters with cinnamon sugar

Paparajotes are the sweet of the Murcian huerta's spring festivals, above all the Bando de la Huerta, when the city fills with people in traditional dress and stalls fry them by the hundred. A lemon tree leaf is dipped in a light batter, fried and dusted with cinnamon sugar; you hold it by the stalk, pull off the crisp coating with your teeth and leave the leaf, which flavours the batter but is not food. Newcomers who try to eat the whole thing are a long-standing local joke. Chef's tip: use only leaves from an unsprayed lemon tree, washed and dried.

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Falsa sherbetFalsa berry drink

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EscavècheCold fried fish in vinegar jelly

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55 minBelgianFishGluten free
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Lo mai gai (sticky rice in lotus leaf)

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130 minHong KongRice & Grains
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Taiwanese sesame oil chicken soup

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Bizcocho dominicanoOrange sponge with pineapple filling

Every Dominican birthday in Santo Domingo or Santiago has one: a tall, buttery, orange-scented sponge split and filled with sticky pineapple, then swirled all over with glossy white meringue frosting called suspiro. Traditional suspiro whips hot syrup into raw whites; this version uses a Swiss meringue, heating the whites with sugar to 70 °C so it is safe for everyone, including pregnant women and small children. The common mistake is overbeating the batter after the flour goes in, which makes the famously moist crumb tough. Chef's tip: beat the butter and sugar for a full 8 minutes until almost white; that air is what gives bizcocho its tender, springy texture.

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ErgoSoured milk

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Bistec de palomillaThin steak with lime onion

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Bistec encebolladoSteak with vinegar onions

Order bistec encebollado at a lunch counter in Santurce or a comedor in Santiago de los Caballeros and it comes the same way: thin steaks swimming in a heap of soft, sharp onions and a garlicky, vinegar-bright gravy, with white rice, beans and tostones alongside. Thin cuts are marinated in vinegar, garlic and oregano, seared, then braised gently with the onions until tender. The common mistake is boiling the meat hard, which makes thin steak tough; a gentle simmer under a lid keeps it soft. Chef's tip: give the steaks a few gentle pounds with a mallet before marinating so the vinegar can work into them.

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Rose petal jam

Ask a Polish baker what goes inside a proper pączek and the answer is rose jam, not strawberry. In June, families gather the scented pink petals of wild beach roses (Rosa rugosa) from hedges along the Baltic coast and in gardens, then pound them with sugar into a sticky, intensely perfumed paste that keeps for a year. The flavour is floral and sweet with a little sharpness from lemon, lovely in doughnuts, swirled into yoghurt or spread on cheesecake. Pick only from plants that have not been sprayed and away from roads. Where most people go wrong is leaving the bitter white base of the petals on; snip it off. Chef's tip: lemon juice turns dull petals bright magenta, so add it right at the start.

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Shan pickled mustard greens

Jars of sour, olive-gold mustard greens sit on every noodle stall in Shan State, from Kengtung to the five-day markets around Inle Lake, and families keep a crock going through the cool season. The greens are wilted, rubbed with salt and packed under cloudy water saved from rinsing rice; its starch feeds the natural fermentation, and after a few days the leaves turn crunchy, tangy and pleasantly funky. A spoonful goes on top of Shan noodles, beside sticky rice, into soups, or stir-fried with garlic and chilli as a side dish. Leaves poking above the brine are the main thing that goes wrong, since that is where mould starts; keep everything pressed under the liquid. Chef's tip: use the cloudiest rice water from the first rinse, and add a spoon of cooked rice to get the souring going faster.

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BirzFresh honey water

In Gojjam and Gondar, where honey is plentiful, birz is poured for children, for guests who do not drink, and at church feasts and weddings beside the tej. It starts the same way as honey wine, with honey stirred into water, but it is drunk fresh within hours, so it stays sweet, mild and completely alcohol-free. Good, flowery honey is everything here; it should taste like a cool, floral lemonade without the lemon. Because birz is honey and water, it will start to ferment by itself if left warm, so drink it the same day and keep it in the fridge until you pour it. Honey is not suitable for babies under 12 months. Chef's tip: dissolve the honey in a little warm water first; stirred straight into cold water, it sinks to the bottom in a sticky lump.

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Singapore prawn noodle soup

Long before lunch, the big pots at Singapore's prawn mee stalls have been bubbling with fried prawn shells and pork bones, and the regulars from Zion Road to Tiong Bahru arrive with one question: soup or dry? This is the soup version, which is different from the stir-fried Hokkien prawn mee: a sweet, briny, rust-coloured broth poured over yellow noodles and rice vermicelli, topped with halved prawns, tender pork ribs, kangkong and bean sprouts, finished with fried shallots and a dusting of chilli powder. A dish of sliced red chilli in soy sauce sits alongside. The most common mistake is boiling the shells without frying them first, which gives a pale, thin broth; the depth comes from shells toasted in oil until they are deep red and smell like the sea. Chef's tip: freeze prawn shells and heads from other meals over a few weeks so you have a big bag ready for the stock.

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