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Partridgeberry muffins
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Partridgeberry muffins

Lingonberry muffins

Partridgeberries are what Newfoundlanders call lingonberries, the bright red, sharp little berries picked on the barrens in September and frozen for the year. Every bakery in Gander and Corner Brook bakes them into tender muffins where the tart berries pop against the sweet crumb. Frozen lingonberries or cranberries work just as well. A common mistake is overmixing, which makes tunnelled, rubbery muffins. Chef's tip: toss the frozen berries in a spoonful of flour before folding them in so they don't sink or bleed.

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Erbazzone reggianoChard and Parmesan pie

Bakeries in Reggio Emilia sell erbazzone in squares from big trays, and people eat it standing at the counter mid-morning or wrapped in paper for the walk home. It is a farmhouse pie of chard and spinach, sharp with spring onion and garlic and generous with Parmigiano, sealed in a very thin, crackly crust. The classic recipe uses lard in the pastry and often pancetta in the filling; both are left out here, and butter and olive oil make the crust. Serve it warm or at room temperature. Chef's tip: dry the greens thoroughly in the pan after blanching; erbazzone should be dense and green, never wet.

75 minItalianBaking
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Passatelli in brodoBreadcrumb and cheese strands in broth

Passatelli were born in Romagna kitchens as a way to turn stale bread into a feast: breadcrumbs, eggs and plenty of hard cheese, scented with lemon and nutmeg, pressed through a special perforated iron straight into simmering broth. Around Rimini, Cesena and Forlì they are Christmas and Sunday food, served steaming in deep plates. The strands are soft, slightly rough and full of cheese flavour. Traditionally the broth is made with capon or beef; here a rich vegetable broth keeps it vegetarian. Chef's tip: no passatelli iron? A potato ricer with large holes does the job; just cut the strands to 4 cm with a knife as they come out.

40 minItalianSoups
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Walk into a trattoria around Modena or Reggio Emilia and a basket of gnocco fritto lands on the table before you have ordered: diamonds of dough that balloon in hot fat into hollow, blistered pillows. They are torn open and filled with whatever comes with them, traditionally cured meats; here they go with soft cheeses, Parmigiano shards, grilled vegetables and pickles. The dough was always made with lard; this version uses butter, which keeps the crust tender and golden. Children adore them for breakfast dipped in milky coffee too. Chef's tip: roll the dough really thin, about 3 mm; thick gnocco stays bready and won't puff.

90 minItalianBreads & Parathas
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Corzetti con maggiorana e pinoliStamped pasta with marjoram

On the Riviera di Levante, from the Fontanabuona valley down towards Chiavari, corzetti are pressed between two carved wooden stamps, so each thin disc carries a pattern on both faces: a family crest, a flower, a ship. Noble families once had their arms carved into them for festive tables. The ridges are there to hold a light sauce, and the simplest is melted butter with toasted pine nuts and fresh marjoram, the herb Ligurians reach for before basil. They have a firm, slightly chewy bite. Chef's tip: no stamp? Cut the discs with a 6 cm glass and press each with the bottom of a patterned glass or a carved wooden butter mould; any relief gives the sauce something to cling to.

60 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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Pansoti con salsa di nociHerb ravioli in walnut sauce

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90 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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90 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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40 minItalianRice & GrainsGluten free
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Polenta di patatePotato and buckwheat polenta

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50 minItalianSides
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Pandoro di VeronaStar-shaped Christmas bread

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1440 minItalianBaking
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120 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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60 minItalianSoups
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For the weeks before Lent, every pastry shop in Venice is piled with fritole, golden balls of fried yeast dough studded with raisins and pine nuts, and masked visitors eat them from paper bags as they wander between the campi. They were once sold from street stalls by a guild of fritter-makers and are still the true taste of the Venetian Carnival: crisp and sugary outside, light and bready within. The traditional batter has a spoon of grappa or rum; here orange juice takes its place, which suits children too. Chef's tip: fry a single fritter first to check the oil heat and timing.

120 minItalianDesserts
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180 minItalianBaking
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120 minItalianBaking
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120 minItalianSoupsVeganGluten free
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Strangolapreti trentiniSpinach and bread gnocchi

The name means priest-stranglers, and in Trento they like to say it dates from the Council of the 1500s, when visiting clergy ate these little green gnocchi so greedily they nearly choked. Thrifty and simple, they are made from stale bread soaked in milk and beaten with spinach or chard, egg and grated cheese, then poached and rolled in sage butter. Expect a soft, tender dumpling with a fresh green flavour, found on trattoria menus across Trentino in autumn and winter. Chef's tip: chop the spinach as finely as you can, almost to a purée, for smooth gnocchi that hold together.

50 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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Tegole valdostaneAlmond hazelnut biscuits

Walk the arcaded streets of old Aosta and the pastry shops have stacks of tegole in the window, thin as paper and curved like the stone roof slabs of the valley's chalets. They are offered with an after-dinner coffee or packed in tins as a present from the mountains. Ground almonds and hazelnuts give them a toasty, buttery crunch that shatters at the first bite. Most recipes include a spoon of wheat flour; this one uses potato starch, so the biscuits are gluten free. Chef's tip: bake a test biscuit first; if it spreads too much, chill the batter for 15 minutes.

35 minItalianBakingGluten free
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Tajarin al burro e salviaEgg ribbon pasta in sage butter

In the hill villages around Alba, in Piedmont's Langhe, tajarin are the pasta of Sunday lunch: hair-thin strands made with so many egg yolks that the dough turns deep orange. Through October and November, when the white truffle fair fills Alba, restaurants toss them in plain butter and shave truffle over the top at the table. The rest of the year sage butter does the job, and the pasta stays the star: silky, rich and springy against the teeth. Chef's tip: cut the strands by hand from a loosely rolled sheet rather than through a machine cutter; slightly uneven tajarin hold the butter better.

60 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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Grissini torinesiHand-stretched breadsticks

Turin claims grissini as its own: the story goes that a court baker stretched bread into thin, dry sticks in the 1600s for a sickly young Savoy duke who could not digest soft loaves. Today a bundle of long, knobbly grissini stirati sits on nearly every Piedmontese restaurant table, ready to snap with antipasti. Made by hand they are lighter and more uneven than the boxed kind, golden and brittle with a faint taste of olive oil. Children love making them. Chef's tip: stretch each strip by holding both ends and letting it swing as you pull, which gives that rustic, slightly twisted look.

120 minItalianBakingVegan
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Torta sbrisolonaCrumbly almond cake

Nobody slices a sbrisolona. In Mantua, in the south-east of Lombardy, the round, golden cake is set whole in the middle of the table after dinner and cracked into rough pieces with a fist, and everyone grabs a shard. Coarse cornmeal and chopped almonds make it gritty, buttery and crunchy, closer to a giant biscuit than a sponge. It began as a farmhouse sweet made with lard; this version uses only butter. Chef's tip: keep your hands cool and stop rubbing in while the mixture still looks like coarse crumbs and small clumps.

60 minItalianBaking
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BonetChocolate amaretti pudding

Bonet closes the long holiday lunches of the Langhe and Monferrato, turned out of its tin glossy with caramel and cut into thick slices. The name is dialect for a cap, after the round copper mould it was once baked in. Crushed amaretti give the custard a soft almond grain, and cocoa makes it taste like a set chocolate pudding with a bitter edge. Most cooks add a splash of rum or marsala; this recipe offers a coffee-and-vanilla version for an alcohol-free bonet. Chef's tip: bake it the day before; after a night in the fridge it slices cleanly and the caramel turns to a thin sauce.

90 minItalianDesserts
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Pane nero di segaleDark rye bread

In the villages of the Valle d'Aosta, rye was the grain that would grow at altitude, and each autumn families took turns at the communal wood-fired oven to bake enough dark loaves to last until spring. Every October the valley still lights those old ovens for a bread festival, and the round, flour-crackled pan ner is sold at markets from Aosta to Gressan. The crumb is dense, moist and slightly sour, with a thick crust; it is eaten with butter, mountain cheese or a bowl of soup. Chef's tip: wait until the loaf is completely cold before slicing, as rye keeps setting as it cools.

240 minItalianBreads & ParathasVegan
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Polenta conciaPolenta with fontina

High in the Valle d'Aosta, polenta concia is what comes out of the kitchen of a mountain refuge after a cold day on the slopes above Cogne or Courmayeur. Soft yellow polenta is layered in a hot dish with cubes of fontina, the valley's own alpine cheese, then drowned in sizzling brown butter until the cheese melts into long, stretchy strings. It is rich, savoury and very filling, best eaten from the dish with a green salad alongside. Chef's tip: cube the fontina while the polenta cooks and keep it at room temperature, so it melts at once instead of staying in cold lumps.

45 minItalianSidesGluten free
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Peperoni ripieni alla piemonteseStuffed roasted peppers

Late summer in Turin means the fat, square peppers of Carmagnola piled high at Porta Palazzo market, and this is what Piedmontese cooks do with them. Halved and filled with peeled tomato and slivers of garlic, they roast until the skins blister and the juices turn sweet and jammy, then come to the table lukewarm as an antipasto. The old recipe hides an anchovy fillet in each half; here capers and black olives bring the same salty edge, so the dish is vegan. Chef's tip: keep the stalk on when you halve the peppers, as it helps each half hold its shape and its juices.

55 minItalianSidesVeganGluten free
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PanettoneChristmas fruit bread

Every December Milan's bakeries stack panettone to the ceiling, and Milanese families trade them as gifts before eating thick slices with coffee on Christmas morning. Legends about its birth at the Sforza court abound, but what matters is the texture: a tall dome with a crumb that pulls apart in long, feathery strands, scented with orange, lemon and vanilla and dotted with raisins and candied peel. Bakers use a natural starter that takes days; this home version uses a small amount of yeast and two long rises over a day. Chef's tip: keep the dough between 24 and 27 °C throughout, such as in an oven with only the light switched on.

1440 minItalianBaking
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Pizzoccheri della ValtellinaBuckwheat pasta with cabbage and cheese

Pizzoccheri belong to the Valtellina, the steep valley of Lombardy near the Swiss border, and above all to the village of Teglio, where a local academy guards the recipe. Short, rough ribbons of grey-brown buckwheat pasta boil in one pot with potatoes and savoy cabbage, then go into a dish in layers with Valtellina Casera cheese and garlicky sage butter. It is a winter dish for ski huts and family kitchens: earthy, nutty and gloriously heavy. Chef's tip: buckwheat pasta breaks easily, so cut the ribbons short and fold the layers gently with two forks.

50 minItalianPasta & Noodles
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Chitrali ghalmandiLayered thin griddle breads

In the Chitral valley in Pakistan's far north, where winters are long and dairy is plentiful, bread is often a meal in itself, and ghalmandi is one of the best loved: soft, thin wholewheat breads stacked with a filling of crumbled fresh cheese, onion, green chilli, coriander and mint, then cut into wedges and eaten warm with salty tea. It is made for guests and on cold evenings, and every household seasons the cheese its own way. Rolling the breads too thick is the common mistake; they turn heavy and the layers do not hold together, so roll them almost see-through. Chef's tip: brush each hot bread with ghee the moment it comes off the griddle and spread the cheese straight away, so the warmth softens the cheese and glues the stack together.

60 minPakistaniBreads & Parathas
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BannockSkillet bread

Bannock is a quick bread of flour, baking powder, fat and water, cooked in a cast-iron pan, baked, fried or wrapped around a stick over a campfire. It's eaten in First Nations, Métis and Inuit communities across Canada, at powwows, family meals and on the land, and every family has its own version. Its history is complicated: wheat flour and lard reached many communities through trade and government rations, and bannock became both a food of survival and a living symbol of community and resilience. Long before that, Indigenous breads were made from local plants and roots. This is a simple home pan version, not any one nation's recipe. Chef's tip: mix only until the dough just comes together; overworking makes bannock tough.

30 minCanadianBreads & Parathas
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Fonio with vegetables

Fonio is a tiny ancient grain grown in the Sahel and in southern Senegal's Casamance and Fouta regions, where it is steamed like couscous and eaten with a vegetable or peanut sauce. It cooks in minutes and has a light, nutty taste, which has made it popular again in Dakar restaurants. Here it is fluffed with a little oil and topped with a quick stew of courgette, carrot, aubergine and tomato. Chef's tip: wash fonio in several changes of water and drain it in a fine sieve; it often carries fine sand, and gritty fonio is the most common complaint.

30 minSenegaleseRice & GrainsVeganGluten free
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BanoshCornmeal with sour cream and cheese

Banosh is the shepherds' dish of the Hutsul highlands in the Ukrainian Carpathians, around Verkhovyna, Kosiv and Yaremche. Coarse cornmeal is stirred into simmering sour cream over a fire until the butterfat beads on the surface, then heaped on plates and crumbled with salty bryndza sheep's cheese and forest mushrooms; tourists queue for it in the mountain kolyba restaurants. Traditionally it is also topped with crisp pork crackling, which this vegetarian version leaves out in favour of extra buttery mushrooms. Bryndza is usually made with animal rennet, so look for a sheep's or feta cheese labelled vegetarian. Chef's tip: stir in one direction only with a wooden spoon, as the Hutsuls insist; it keeps the porridge smooth and helps the fat separate out, which tells you it is ready.

35 minUkrainianRice & GrainsGluten free
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Mushroom and cheese galette

In Brittany, a galette is a large, lacy pancake made from buckwheat flour, water and salt: nutty, a little earthy and crisp at the edges. Crêperies all over the region fold them around savoury fillings and serve them with a bowl of dry cider. This one is filled with garlicky mushrooms, melted cheese and chives, folded into a square so the centre shows. Pure buckwheat is naturally gluten free, but check the packet, as some is milled alongside wheat. Emmental and Gruyère are usually made with animal rennet, so use a vegetarian alternative. Rest the batter if you have time: it can be made the night before. Chef's tip: the first galette is always a test; a pan that isn't hot enough is the common mistake that makes them pale and floppy instead of lacy and crisp.

25 minFrenchBreakfast & BrunchGluten free
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FeijoadaBlack bean and pork stew

In Rio de Janeiro, feijoada has its own days: Wednesdays and Saturdays, when botecos and restaurants put the big pots on and lunch stretches into the afternoon. Black beans simmer slowly with carne seca (salt-dried beef), salted pork ribs, smoky sausages and bacon until the broth is thick, dark and glossy. The full spread, feijoada completa, comes with white rice, garlicky shredded couve, crunchy farofa and slices of orange to freshen the palate. Our vegetarian feijoada covers the meat-free version; this is the classic. Start a day ahead, because the salted meats must soak. Chef's tip: mash a ladleful of cooked beans with the fried onion and garlic and stir it back in; it thickens the broth naturally.

180 minBrazilianMeat
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Bariis iskukarisSpiced rice with vegetables and raisins

Bariis iskukaris ('rice cooked together') is the centre of the table at Somali family lunches, Friday gatherings and Eid, from Mogadishu to Hargeisa and Somali neighbourhoods in Nairobi, Minneapolis and London. Long-grain rice is cooked in one pot with onion, tomato and the house spice mix xawaash, and topped with fried onions and raisins; it is usually crowned with goat, but this version cooks carrots, peas and potatoes into the rice. In true Somali style, serve it with a banana on the side and a spoon of green basbaas. Chef's tip: rinse and soak the basmati so the grains stay long and separate.

70 minSomaliRice & GrainsVeganGluten free
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GudegYoung jackfruit stew

Gudeg is the signature of Yogyakarta: whole streets around Wijilan are lined with stalls selling it from dawn, and visitors carry it home in clay pots or woven baskets. Unripe jackfruit is cooked for hours with palm sugar, coconut milk, galangal and salam leaves until it turns reddish-brown, soft as pulled meat, and deeply sweet and savoury. The classic plate adds chicken, egg and spicy cattle-skin stew; this vegan plate pairs it with sticky-sweet tempeh and tofu and a sharp sambal to cut the sweetness. Chef's tip: let the pot cook down slowly until almost all the liquid is gone — drier gudeg keeps for days and tastes better on the second.

240 minIndonesianCurriesVeganGluten free
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Roasted red pepper & fennel

Big pieces of sweet red pepper and fennel tossed with lemon, black pepper and olive oil and roasted until soft and just starting to brown, then topped with black olives, toasted pine nuts and fresh herbs. It works as a side or a light starter, warm or cold. The vegetables can also be roasted on the barbecue jiko.

40 minMediterraneanSidesVeganGluten free
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ChechebsaTorn flatbread in spiced butter

Chechebsa (also called kita firfir) is a breakfast from the Oromia and Wollo regions now loved all over Addis Ababa: a thick wheat flatbread is cooked on a griddle, torn into pieces and tossed in niter kibbeh and berbere, then eaten with honey and a dollop of ayib or yoghurt. It is rich, warming and quick. For a fasting (vegan) version, toss the bread in spiced oil instead of niter kibbeh and skip the yoghurt and honey or use date syrup. Chef's tip: tear the bread while hot with two forks; cold flatbread goes tough and won't soak up the butter.

25 minEthiopianBreakfast & Brunch
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FërgesëBaked peppers and tomatoes with cheese

Fërgesë is the dish people in Tirana order at lunchtime in a small clay pot, still bubbling, with a basket of bread for dipping. Soft fried peppers and tomatoes are folded through gjizë, Albania's fresh salted curd cheese, then baked until the top spots golden. The meatless version with peppers is the everyday one across central Albania; it is rich, tangy and gently spicy. Ricotta mixed with a little feta is a good stand-in for gjizë outside Albania. Chef's tip: cook the tomatoes down until thick before the cheese goes in; a watery fërgesë that splits in the oven is the usual mistake.

50 minBalkanVegetarianGluten freeSpicy
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Barszcz czerwony (Christmas Eve beetroot broth)Clear beetroot soup

Barszcz czerwony wigilijny is the clear, ruby-coloured beetroot broth that opens the Christmas Eve supper in most Polish homes, from Warsaw to Wrocław. It is not the thick vegetable soup of Ukraine but a sipping broth, sweet, sour and earthy, sharpened with beetroot kvass or lemon and deepened with dried forest mushrooms; on 24 December it is served with tiny mushroom dumplings called uszka, and through winter people drink it from mugs alongside a croquette. It is fully plant-based, as the Wigilia table traditionally is. Chef's tip: once the beetroot is in, never let the soup boil hard; a bare simmer keeps the colour bright, and boiling turns it a dull brown.

90 minPolishSoupsVegan
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Basanti pulaoSweet saffron rice

Basanti pulao, the 'spring-coloured' pulao, is cooked in Bengali homes for Poila Baisakh (the Bengali new year), weddings, Jamai Shashthi and pujas. It is made with gobindobhog, a short-grain, buttery-smelling rice from Bengal, cooked in ghee with whole spices, turmeric, sugar, cashews and raisins until each grain is glossy and separate. It is distinctly sweet, and is served with aloo dum, chhanar dalna or, in non-vegetarian homes, kosha mangsho. Chef's tip: wash the rice and spread it on a cloth for 30 minutes; dry grains fry in the ghee without breaking.

65 minIndianRice & GrainsGluten free
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BasbaasGreen chilli and coriander sauce

Basbaas means chilli in Somali, and basbaas cagaar, the green sauce, is on every Somali table, spooned over rice, pasta, sambuusa and grilled food. It is sharp, hot and fresh, and every family has its own balance of chilli, coriander and lime; some add a tomato to soften it. Make a jar and keep it in the fridge all week. Chef's tip: add the lime juice to the blender before the chillies; the acid keeps the sauce bright green.

10 minSomaliChutneys & DipsVeganGluten freeSpicy
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French onion soup

Soupe à l'oignon gratinée was the late-night meal of Les Halles, the old Paris food market, where porters and party-goers ate it at dawn; in Lyon, the city of onions, it's a winter bistro classic. Onions are cooked very slowly in butter until they turn a deep mahogany brown, then simmered in stock with a splash of wine and topped with toasted bread and melted cheese under the grill. The traditional soup uses beef stock; this version uses a rich vegetable stock and lets the deeply browned onions carry the flavour. Gruyère and Comté are made with animal rennet, so use a vegetarian alternative. Chef's tip: give the onions a full hour on a low heat; rushing them over a high heat is the common mistake and they burn before they sweeten.

90 minFrenchSoups
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Basler LäckerliHoney and almond biscuits

Läckerli have been Basel's own biscuit for more than 600 years, once baked by the city's spice merchants and gifted at Christmas and New Year; Basel shops still pack them in tins all year round. They are small, chewy rectangles of honey, almonds, candied orange and lemon peel and warm spices, with a thin, crackly sugar glaze. Unlike soft German gingerbread they are firm and dense when they are fresh and soften with time in a tin. Eat them with coffee or tea, or keep a box for visitors. Chef's tip: cut the slab into rectangles while it is still hot and glaze it at once; once cool it sets too hard to cut cleanly.

50 minSwissBaking
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Basler MehlsuppeBrowned flour soup

Basel's Fasnacht starts at 4 a.m. on the Monday after Ash Wednesday with Morgestraich, when the city's lights go out and the cliques march with lanterns, piccolos and drums. Afterwards everyone crowds into the old-town restaurants for a bowl of Mehlsuppe: flour toasted in butter until it is the colour of hazelnuts, simmered into a smooth, savoury, deep-brown soup and finished with grated cheese. It warms you on a freezing February morning and is usually eaten with Zwiebelwähe (onion tart). The traditional soup is made with beef stock; this vegetarian version uses a strong vegetable stock with a little red wine and onion to give the same depth. Chef's tip: toast the flour slowly and stir all the time; the colour should be even chestnut brown, and the smell like toasted nuts.

60 minSwissSoups
by KrazyBadal 0 views

FesenjanChicken in pomegranate walnut sauce

In the rice paddies and forests of Gilan on the Caspian coast, fesenjan is cooked with duck or chicken in autumn, when walnuts are freshly cracked and pomegranates ripen; across Iran it now marks Yalda night in December and big family dinners. Ground walnuts are toasted, then simmered slowly with pomegranate molasses until their oil rises and the sauce turns almost chocolate-brown, thick and glossy, tangy first and gently sweet after. Chicken thighs braise in it until they are spoon-tender. Serve it over saffron chelow rice with a crisp tahdig. Chef's tip: stir the walnut paste over a low heat for a full hour; the longer, slower cook is what darkens the sauce and brings the walnut oil to the surface.

130 minPersianChickenGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

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