Featured recipe

Xue cai

Pickled mustard greens

In Ningbo and the river towns of Zhejiang, xue li hong, a feathery potherb mustard, is harvested in early spring and again in late autumn, and much of it is rubbed with salt and pressed into jars. A couple of weeks later it is xue cai, olive green, crisp, salty and gently sour, with a clean mustard bitterness. Shanghainese and Ningbo cooks chop it into noodle soup with yellow croaker or shredded pork, stir-fry it with sliced rice cakes for Lunar New Year, or simmer it with edamame and tofu skin in summer. Abroad, use any young leafy mustard green or the leaves of gai choy. Common mistake: packing the leaves loosely; air pockets let mould grow, so press hard until brine rises over the top. Normal signs are a little cloudiness, small bubbles and a pleasant pickle smell; a flat white film can be skimmed off. Discard if you see fuzzy coloured mould, pink or black patches, or it smells rotten. It is ready after 2–3 weeks, when the leaves have turned from bright to olive green and taste sour. Then keep it in the fridge for 2 months. Chef's tip: squeeze and chop finely before cooking; a quick rinse tames the salt.

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