Beef, rice and walnut soup
Kharcho is the soup Tbilisi cooks make when the weather turns cold: beef brisket simmered until it falls apart, then thickened with rice and ground walnuts and given its sour, tangy edge by tkemali plum sauce, with khmeli-suneli, garlic and a lot of coriander. It is spooned into deep bowls in old-town cafés and eaten with shoti bread, and it is thick enough to be a whole meal. A common mistake is adding the rice too early, so it swells into porridge and the soup loses its body. Chef's tip: grind the walnuts with garlic and a ladle of hot broth before stirring them in, so they thicken the soup smoothly rather than floating as crumbs.
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Two thin rounds of dough sandwiched around a filling of potato, carrot, peas and cauliflower cooked with cumin, ginger and chilli and mixed with cheddar and lemon, sealed with a flour paste and shallow fried. Filling and kid-friendly. Serve hot with spring onion and yogurt dip.
Easy home-made naan: a soft dough of self-raising flour, yeast and yogurt, left to rise and then cooked under a hot grill until puffed and light brown. Brush with butter or ghee if you like and serve hot with curries.
Bhakhri is the classic Gujarati crisp flatbread: a very stiff dough of wholemeal flour and oil, rolled thick and cooked slowly while being pressed, so it turns biscuity and crisp. The edges crack because the dough is stiff, which is how it should be. Spread with butter or ghee and serve with mixed lentil curry or dry potato curry and yogurt.
A special-occasion khichdi: rice and split green gram cooked with whole spices and onion, then layered with baby potatoes and peas in a fresh paste of coconut, green chilli, ginger, garlic and coriander, and gently baked. Serve garnished with crisp onion rings, coriander and coconut.
Chopadia are flaky, layered parathas: the dough is spiced with roasted cumin and black pepper, brushed with ghee, rolled into a cone and rolled out again so it cooks into soft layers. They can be made several hours ahead. Serve with any curry, dal or pickle.
Kulchas are soft, leavened breads from North India. Here the yogurt and poppy seed dough is filled with soya mince sautéed with garlic and green chilli and mixed with cheddar, baked, then finished on a griddle just before serving. Make plain kulcha by leaving out the filling.
Bright green parathas: the dough is kneaded with puréed spinach and lemon, then filled with a gently spiced stuffing of crushed peas, grated cauliflower and crumbled paneer and cooked on a hot griddle. Soft inside with crisp spots outside. Serve hot with yogurt and chutneys.
A bright, quick rice dish: boiled rice gently mixed with sweetcorn and julienned red and green capsicum tempered with cumin and curry leaves, sharpened with lemon juice. It's light and colourful. Serve with plain yogurt or masala yogurt.
A crowd-pleasing baked rice: fluffy grains mixed with steamed vegetables and three colours of capsicum cooked in a gingery tomato and yogurt masala, then covered with cheddar and baked until bubbling. Children love it. Serve it hot, on its own or with a salad.
A simple, nutty rice of basmati and whole brown masoor lentils, mixed with sautéed onion, capsicum and tomato and gently spiced with garam masala and turmeric, then baked so the flavours meld. Serve hot with yogurt.
Tandoori roti made at home: wholemeal dough spread with chilled, solidified ghee, rolled into a cone and pressed out again so it bakes into soft, flaky layers. Cook it in a tandoor or on the back of a perforated earthenware tava over the flame until brown-spotted. Serve with a curry of your choice.
A hearty vegetarian biryani: rice cooked with soya mince, onion and garlic, layered with mixed vegetables in a spiced tomato, yogurt and mint gravy, then baked. Topped with fried cashews and potato cubes, it's high in protein and very filling. Serve with masala yogurt.
Folded square parathas made with wholemeal flour, semolina, fresh fenugreek and roasted cumin. Spreading ghee and flour between the folds makes them crisp and flaky. Cook them slowly until well browned and serve with pickles, yogurt and a curry of your choice.
A festive, baked khichdi: rice and pigeon pea lentils are cooked with cumin and tinted with saffron, then layered with a garlicky onion and yogurt gravy and crisp ghee-fried onions. It comes out of the oven fragrant and rich. Serve hot with plain yogurt.
Osaman is the cooking water from boiled whole green grams, gently spiced with ginger, chilli, tamarind and jaggery and finished with a cinnamon, clove and curry-leaf tempering. It's thin, soothing and easy to digest, so it's good for anyone feeling unwell. The leftover boiled green grams can be used to make a curry.
Here the rice is 'brown' because sugar is caramelised in the oil before the rice goes in, which gives it a deep golden colour and a gentle toasty sweetness. It's layered with crisp matchstick vegetables tossed in a sharp, spicy vinegar marinade and ketchup, then baked. A good party dish; serve it with yogurt or raita.
Soft, puffy bhaturas with a surprise inside: a yeast-raised dough is stuffed with grated paneer, fresh fenugreek, coriander, ginger, garlic and chilli, then deep fried until golden. Serve with chutneys and channa paneer masala.
A festive pulao of basmati rice with green peas, golden fried paneer cubes and cashews, cooked with whole spices, ginger and garlic. Each grain stays separate and fragrant. Garnish with more cashews and sliced chillies and serve with masala yogurt.
A mild, creamy biryani: rice and husked green gram roasted in ghee, then cooked in coconut milk with peas, carrots, potatoes, peanuts and cashews, and finished with soft fried paneer and a fresh coriander yogurt. Serve hot, garnished with more fried cashews and paneer.
A light Indo-Chinese style fried rice: cooked rice tossed over a medium-high heat with shredded cabbage, french beans, carrots, celery and spring onions, seasoned simply with soy sauce. Serve with sweet and sour vegetables, sweet and sour sauce and chillies in vinegar.
Small, crisp squares of brown-sugar butter dough mixed with crunchy home-made almond praline, then topped with cinnamon and more praline. A lovely biscuit for festive tins. Like all biscuits, they feel soft in the oven and crisp up as they cool.
Bhatura are big, soft, puffy fried breads made from a curd-leavened dough. This version has fresh coriander, fenugreek and tomato in the dough. Serve them straight from the pan with channa paneer masala or a curry of your choice. For masala bhatura, add chopped green chillies, coriander, onion and garam masala to the dough.
A simple, fresh one-pot rice: chickpeas, beans, peas and cauliflower cooked with turmeric and green chilli, brightened with plenty of chopped mint and a squeeze of lemon. Serve hot with yogurt.
Puris are small rounds of wholemeal dough deep fried until they puff into golden balloons. They're best eaten straight away with a curry of your choice, potato bhaji or shrikhand. Tip from the book: puris can be rolled out an hour ahead and kept between well-rinsed wet muslin cloths, then fried just before serving.
A light, everyday dal of husked and whole masoor lentils cooked with onion, tomato, ginger and garlic, blended smooth and seasoned with jaggery and lemon. A simple cumin and asafoetida tempering finishes it. Serve hot masoor dal with stuffed potato paratha.
A comforting one-pot khichda of rice, green gram and pigeon pea lentils with little cubes of potato, cooked in cumin-scented ghee with ginger and green chilli. It's soft and mild, everyday food. Serve with Gujarati kadhi or plain yogurt.
A traditional vegetarian biryani with whole baby potatoes cooked in a fragrant paste of onion, coriander seeds, poppy seeds, aniseed and warm spices, layered with saffron rice and crisp browned onions, then slowly baked. Serve hot with masala yogurt.
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