Roasted barley flour with olive oil
A tin of bsissa sits in many Tunisian kitchen cupboards, from Tunis flats to farmhouses in the south: a finely ground flour of roasted barley, roasted chickpeas and spices such as coriander, fennel and aniseed. In the morning a few spoonfuls are worked with olive oil and something sweet into a nutty, crumbly paste, or stirred with water into a thick drink, and it keeps you going until lunch. Travellers and pilgrims once carried it for the road. Roasting your own flour takes 15 minutes and makes a jar that lasts weeks. Sugar and dates keep it vegan; some families use honey. Chef's tip: roast the flours separately over a low heat and stir constantly; the moment they smell like toasted biscuits and turn light tan, tip them out of the pan.
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Ras malai is a much-loved Bengali sweet now made all over India: soft discs of fresh paneer poached in light syrup, then soaked in milk boiled down until rich and creamy and flavoured with saffron. Served chilled, scattered with almonds, pistachios and cardamom. Makes about 50 small pieces.
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A quick, modern ras malai: ricotta beaten with sugar and cardamom, baked until just set, cut into squares and soaked overnight in cream scented with kewra (screwpine) essence. It's soft, creamy and delicately perfumed, without the work of making paneer. Serve chilled with almond and pistachio flakes.
Puranpuri (puran poli) is a festive Gujarati and Maharashtrian flatbread stuffed with puran: pigeon pea lentils cooked with sugar until thick, flavoured with saffron, cardamom and fennel. It's rolled thin, cooked on a griddle and drizzled with ghee. Serve hot with kadhi and a curry of your choice.
Roasted fine vermicelli cooked in milk until thick with saffron, cardamom and sugar, with chopped apple stirred in, then cooled and topped with ice cream, crunchy roasted vermicelli and nuts. It's creamy, fragrant and fun to eat. Serve it cool in individual bowls.
A rich, home-made cream liqueur of whisky, cream, condensed and evaporated milk, melted milk chocolate and a touch of coffee. Sweet, smooth and strong: for adults only. Serve chilled over crushed ice, keep it in the fridge and drink within 3 days.
A chocolatey-tasting shake made with carob powder instead of chocolate, blended with milk, yogurt, honey, fresh mint and ground brazil nuts. Creamy and lightly minty. Serve cold.
Crisp fennel juiced with sweet apples, pears and a carrot, giving a fresh juice with a gentle aniseed flavour. Serve it chilled.
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A sweet, creamy chowder of sweetcorn, potato, leek and red pepper simmered in milk, then blended and sieved until silky. It suits babies of 8–18 months, and older children enjoy it unsieved. Serve warm.
A soft, golden hash of butter beans, chickpeas, French beans, carrot and potato, mashed together and pan-fried until crisp on both sides. It's a filling, protein-rich meal for babies and toddlers, moistened with a little home-made vegetable stock. Remember to soak the butter beans and chickpeas the night before.
Rounds of bread spread with cream cheese, soaked in egg custard and baked gently in a water bath until just set. Soft and mild, it suits babies of 8–18 months and makes a good light lunch for toddlers too. Serve warm.
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A gentle, salt-free vegetable stock for cooking baby food, for babies of 8–18 months. Root vegetables, ginger and a few herbs simmer slowly for two hours, giving a light, sweet stock. Use it for the purees, hash and pasta in this section, and freeze small portions in an ice-cube tray for quick meals.
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A cool, pale-green juice of cucumbers, sweet pineapple, carrots and celery with a few fresh sage leaves. Soothing and lightly sweet. Serve cold.
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A thick, fragrant blend of ripe guava, mango and banana, boosted with a spoonful of guava powder from the health shop. The book calls it a modern-day vitality drink, drawing on guava's long use in traditional Indian medicine. Serve it well chilled; sieve it if you don't like the little guava seeds.
A deep red juice of beetroot (leaves and all), carrots and apples. Sweet, earthy and packed with goodness. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
A sweet, energising juice of apples, pears and kiwi fruit with a stick of celery, all used unpeeled for extra goodness. It's naturally sweet, so it needs no sugar. Serve well chilled.
A thick, velvety smoothie of ripe avocado blended with skimmed milk, low-fat yogurt and ice, with kelp powder and a pinch of nutmeg. Creamy and filling, almost a meal in a glass. Serve chilled.
Flaked rice (pauva) simmered in milk until soft and creamy, then stirred with apple puree and a little ground almond. A comforting afternoon meal for babies of 8–18 months. Almond essence is strong: a tiny drop is plenty.
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